[Wobble]

As has already be pointed out the wheels look a bit funny. The visible part of the hub is approx 12mm which equates to about 13.5" wheels in 1:1 terms. What we should be seeing is a knats tit over 13mm. My initial thoughts are to turn some Slot.it 15.8x8 plastic hubs to narrow them to 6 or 7mm but then I need to find suitable inserts. The back burner is simmering away quite nicely.

I don't want to be forking out the cost of the car on a set of wheels as this won't be a serious racer or a thing of beauty. It would be a racer in terms of our pre 80's sports car class which is more about fun than a serious class and isn't fast.

 

[driver#8]

I'm still toying with the idea of Scalex D-Type wheels, although Peter is quite right on the round hole/square hole thing.

George Turner's inserts look pretty good to my eye as well.

The main thing on our track is trying to get some vertical travel on the front axle. Achieving that means I could never race it because we are the church of wholly stock when it comes to chassis/body/wheels etc but as something to get a lot more pleasure out of that would always be the first step.

 

[nonfractal]

I'm Looking to retrofit a monogram E-type 1964 "Peter Lindner" lightweight to race.
it's going to be the partner car to my monogram Daytona Cobra with 3D chassis etc.
Problem is , only "mint and boxed" items around at the moment, far too nice (and expensive) for what I need. 😫

I got one off eBay (mint and boxed) at a very respectable £30 plus postage 😀
Shapeways chassis ready to pick up from my local UPS drop point.
Part being pulled together for the build.
AlanW

 

[Wankel Ickx]

@Dopamine what kinda lathe do you use when you turn down original wheels?

Which is to say, is there a decent-ish cheap job that anyone recommends?

 

[Wobble]

Thread revival, good job although when I clicked on it because it's been so long it took me right back to the begginning, which is annoying but at the same time was a quick refreshment course which is a good thing. Still haven't sold my Scaley E-Type and gears revolve from time to time (in my head at least).

 

[Dopamine]

@Dopamine what kinda lathe do you use when you turn down original wheels?
Which is to say, is there a decent-ish cheap job that anyone recommends?

An Axminster C1 Micro. The C1 is now discontinued, but the C0 Micro is similar and currently just over £500 from Axminster. And yes, £500 is a substantial sum, but it's only ten slot cars and a lathe will last you a lifetime. Mine has well and truly proved its worth.

Have a look at these threads and see if they ring any bells... 😇
"I'm assuming a lathe? I don't have a lathe."
"Ten cars or a lathe? No contest."

 

[Dopamine]

Which is to say, is there a decent-ish cheap job that anyone recommends?

Have a look at this Sieg Micro lathe on eBay. Currently starting at £325 with no bids yet. Looks like a bargain. I'm not a lathe expert, but am pretty sure Sieg lathes are the underpinnings of Axminster's lathes.

 

[Dopamine]

 

[Wankel Ickx]

Yes, I know. I know. I know I've asked the question here at least twice and many more times in this thoroughly shaken head.

It's a lack of commitment.

A fear of the unknown.

A suspicion I'd just not be any good at it; spend three hundred plus and then destroy numerous decent hubs in the pursuit of a few decent inserts.

Which is to say, I shall watch that auction (ock-shun) and maybe save a search - that one being too far away for comfort.

And I promise I won't ask again. Until I do.

 

[Gripping Pneus]

I'm not a lathe expert, but am pretty sure Sieg lathes are the underpinnings of Axminster's lathes.

Axminster are a well known and long standing company in the small machine tool field. I bought an Axminster branded mill from them some 25 years ago and it is first class. I did my research first and visited the Model Engineer exhibition to see as many products from different manufacturers as possible. What I learned was that there was a Chinese factory mass producing castings for generic machines and these were used as the basis by lots of “manufacturers”. The Western marketing brands bought a job lot of castings and had them shipped to their chosen factory in China for production. They stated the specifications they wanted ( accuracy, finish, colour etc.) and were quoted a price accordingly. If happy, production went ahead. The result was many identical looking machines by different manufacturers all built to different qualities and prices.
I judged Axminster’s own brand to be best value for money in my price range.

 

[42redcat]

If you’re patient enough, it’s possible to cut hubs down using just hand tools (razor-saw and files). Certainly no more difficult than scratch-building a bodyshell!
By the way, I’ve always wanted a lathe but have never been able to justify buying one….!
Mike

 

[beardy56]

I thought the same as Mike but then bought one of these for £60

not the highest quality but seems ok for filing down wheels and sanding tyres. I've found the best option is to use a hollow axle so I can place the tip of the fixed spindle pin in the hollow for a bit more support.

I also bought one of these for my Dremel

so got the option of using either now.

 

[gus3049]

If it's just for turning down inserts and the like, a poor man's lathe does the job just fine

 

[Kevan]

Bought this some time last year and can't bring myself to modify it for racing as it's such a beauty

 

[beardy56]

I've bought two, one was one of my most expensive slot cars and the other was about £25 both as new, boxed and with the sleeve. One now has an Ofiler chassis, Slot.it offset pod, grey, and offset gears with a flat 6 RS 25k motor running on NSR 10mm wide classis tyres. Just don't ask me which one I converted.

 

[stuckinthe60s]

agreed the Revellogram is so nice. And I miss the brand as well: weren't really serious racers, but decent runners and so beautiful (excepting the latter Nascars; another story).

 

[driver#8]

Bought this some time last year and can't bring myself to modify it for racing as it's such a beauty

I bought one of these too, as a candidate for our club’s TT sports cars class. The biggest improvement came from swapping the stock guide for an SRC sprung job. There’s a very useful thread in here about tuning the Revogram Jags with weight and minimally invasive surgery.

It’s from 2005, when useful threads were the in thing 😂

Ultimately, though, the pretty cat does need a new chassis. As we’re not allowed fit them at the club, I went back to my mad sideways MRRC Cobra.

 

[Kevan]

One day soon I'll get it off that plinth and start measuring it up for a new 3D chassis

 

[driver#8]

If taking it off the plinth is too traumatic I can always put mine in the post!

 

[Kevan]

I think I'll be OK...