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I talked to Ed last fall and he should still be operating. He delivers well on his stuff, if you can follow all the "rules" for payment and shipping (!).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks.

So is he still requiring money orders for payment? Or has he moved into the 21st century and will take PayPal. I'll note that I'm not young. I remember where I was when JFK was shot, and I was accepting credit cards long ago and use PayPal. I think the last time I used a money order to pay for anything was back in the mid 1980's.

Any comments on the chassis'?
 

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I see you are in TX: at least in the USA, since one thing he has gone back to is POSTAL money order only. There was a time he took credit cards, but he became put off by them. You also have to have a minimum order and shipping. The chassis/frame itself is nice: I have used the frame alone to restore old Strombeckers using original components like motors, wheels, etc. Then save his components for other builds. Us old fogies all have our things: having been burned badly once, I pay NO bills through automatic systems. I do it all manually on time and with envelopes/stamps. I want to be in control (as we all do in some way).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Speedy NH

The real question on the modern motors that come in the kits is are they good motors? All I actually care about on parts is whether they are well made and work well. I would really prefer they weren't made in China, but that can be hard to avoid.

I like the old chassis (and old style) because they are usually heavier, handle well, and I absolutely detest magnets. I recall really disliking even the first Magnatraction Auroras when they came out because even those look so unreal going around a track. I thought even less of the G-Plus and all the 1/32 cars that are virtually glued to the track by magnets. To me, it isn't any fun watching them, and less fun driving them. To me, a thousand scale MPH just looks silly. Most cars without magnets are still far faster than any of their prototypes in full scale, but because of perception and track length, would look slow if run at scale speeds. I digress, but even my slowest 1/32 scale cars corner at lateral G's that would practically rip one's eyes out (15+G) and the faster ones corner at 60-70 or more G.

Stuck in the 60's:

I understand where you are coming from on payments. However, I've only been burned by the "checks in the mail". I've had private individuals, and corporate entities tell me that they didn't receive a check in order to delay shipment or try to post a late fee, when in reality, the check had cleared my bank and was on record days before. Once, it was even weeks before. Getting your money back is really difficult with a check payment. And money orders can be stolen. So those methods of payment aren't really safe. However, an over the phone electronic payment or certain types of online payments with verification leave a trail and have confirmation numbers to verify payment. And as long as a reputable system is used, and you keep the receipts or confirmations, credit for a mistake is quick. Actually, most of the time now, with CC, you don't even really have to keep the receipt, though it is wiser to keep all information. Young people have a tendency to push that to the limit. I don't trust it that much. Nothing is perfect.

I will say that I would have a hard time selling much of anything today without taking CC payments.

It does sound like he is still in business. So, are there any comments on the kits or chassis, such as that Strombecker brass chassis kit?

Thanks
 

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when I got mine years ago, they came with either a Plafit Fox or Rabbit motor. Chinese, but they work very well. The 5-40 turned aluminum wheels are the repro Atlas run he did many years (decades?) ago. Again, quite nice. And you can see there the original Cox gear.
 

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oh, and his #15 tires (also available separately in sets of 4) are the only way to go for vintage style skinny rims. They are stretchy mechanical rubber that will fit many old rims. And they do not rot with age; some of mine still doing duty 20 years and more later. Highly recommended and probably worth the hassle just for those. He also does a #16 wide tire for vintage wide rims from Monogram, et al.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks. Both of those comments on motors and tires help. Nice to hear about the longevity. Various rubber compounds are all over the place in regards to life. I do have some very old silicone and, probably urethane tires. Over the decades, I've noticed that most of the OEM slot car manufacturers tires are terrible over time, nor all that sticky. While not relevant here, the OEM Model Motoring tires would get hard, crack and even crumble after just a few years.

Speaking of tires, have you ever used Paul Gage's urethane tires? I have had good experience with his tires on a variety of cars, including going to them on my Parma International 32's, which were really a step up from the sponge rubber I used to use. (And the sponge rubber is the worst for longevity, which is not surprising.) I have found the PGT21083XD fits nicely and securely on stock 1960's aluminum ridged Strombecker rims. They are about 1mm wider than stock.

Do you happen to recall if that Strombecker chassis kit has the #15 tires in the kit, or something else?

Thanks again!
 

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international 32's! I still have a couple somewhere. I liked 32 eurosport a lot better though, and ran them in my old series.

I think that the good thing about the EJ's stuff is that they seem to repro the old chassis, in spite of using the little can motors.

on my buddy's track in FL, we use PGTs. XPGTs stick better but can sometimes turn to mush over time. sponge tires were fine when we used to use track glue, but now... not to mention how they dried out.

I'm not stuck in the 60's any more per se (i know that you weren't referring to me), but I sure do enjoy the cars. especially monogram midgets and 32 F1s. I'm building a field of midgets to have an IROC race with up here where we mostly run modern plastic cars on wood. they'e a real blast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The two International 32's are the smoothest, and quietest 1/32 -1/24 cars I have (including the Fly, plastic Monogram, SCX, Slot-it, Carrera, Scalextric-old, Hornby, and new, old Strombecker, etc.) They have home type motors, though I originally got them to use on a commercial routed track back in the '90's. I've got some Womps, which are not quiet, but run very smooth. As I have Carrera track now, I either need to get some 2 -3 ohm (I think I can use 3 ohm??) controllers, or change the motors to home motors. Not sure which choice is the best. Of course I could get a real power supply, but don't want to do that yet. I got one of the Womps out last week and tried them on the stock controller and in a couple minutes started to smell the controller. Oops. Controller fine, but remembered that they don't have home type motors. I'm not as fond of the Womps as I am of the longer International 32, although I'll see what I think of one after I modify it to be a little more like my International in the tire and motor department.

I'm not familiar with the 32 Eurosport. I just looked at one. Though I'm not sure that I would care about the difference on a home track, given the price, but I am curious. Advantages?

BTW, lest I forget. "Stuck in the 60's" was only using the moniker, just in case anyone thought I was making a comment. I was just using his "name" for the answer.

The difference between the 40 durometer PGT and the 20 durometer XPGT hits me about the same way, 20's stick a bit better, but wear is higher. I have a couple 20's but haven't had them long, so if they turn to mush, I guess that will make them useless in the opposite way the sponge tires become less useful.

You mentioned Monogram Midgets. What about the EJ kit? Have you (or anyone) built or run one of them?
 

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a 32 euro would probably be pretty useless on a short home track. they've got like 150k+ cobalt motors, draw a lot of current and go like stink.

I haven't tried the EJ's midgets. same chassis, though, it looks.

actually i just looked and they only accept postal money orders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The postal money orders, and quite a bit of the sound of crickets when I tried looking around on newsgroups for comments and information about them are the reasons I asked about EJ's. I wasn't seeing anything past around 2009-10 talking about any of their products, except for one note in 2014, but it seemed to be talking about buying a chassis many years earlier. And I know of few instances anymore of people only accepting money orders on a consumer product, including custom made items.
 
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