hi! dont know if this is the right forum but here goes. at the moment i,m running a 15v 5amp regulated switching mode power supply. ive got hold of an old 0 to 50v 40 amp variable voltage power supply. can i run my cars on it or do i have to clean up the voltage to my track, if so how would i do it. as you might have guessed im a right thickie when its about electricalt things, i still think its magic so keep it simple for me, allmost forgot its input is 240volts. thanks i hope. john.
electronics
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Hi stoner
Please say a bit more about this old 0 to 50v 40 amp variable voltage power supply you want to use, without a bit more info there's no way of knowing how much (if at all) the output needs "cleaning up" to reduce AC ripple.
You need to turn the voltage down to what your cars need , probably no more than 15 volts unless you are running high end HO cars or Carrera 1/24 (which need 18v).
Make sure it cannot get turned up by mistake, oexcessive voltage can cause damage.
Analogue cars with basic resistance controllers will work on just about any amount of AC ripple, although they might run a bit hotter.
What cars are you running?
If you are running cars that don't need that much current it would be wise to fuse each lane separately to a little above the current the cars normally need.
Please say a bit more about this old 0 to 50v 40 amp variable voltage power supply you want to use, without a bit more info there's no way of knowing how much (if at all) the output needs "cleaning up" to reduce AC ripple.
You need to turn the voltage down to what your cars need , probably no more than 15 volts unless you are running high end HO cars or Carrera 1/24 (which need 18v).
Make sure it cannot get turned up by mistake, oexcessive voltage can cause damage.
Analogue cars with basic resistance controllers will work on just about any amount of AC ripple, although they might run a bit hotter.
What cars are you running?
If you are running cars that don't need that much current it would be wise to fuse each lane separately to a little above the current the cars normally need.
hi 300slr thanks for the reply. i run an assortment of motors-s16d outlaw arms and standard-super wasp with
rewound hornert arm-rush 36000 fc130 -scaleauto fc130s-2 falcon7s- a jk falcon 58.000rpm mini motor with end bell drive 5mm ball bearing conversion- few x12s-plafit cheetah and fox-ninco nc5s-mini mini motors like early ho-a load of fc30 motors some with advaced timing as much twist on the com without breaking the stack wires usually 5 to 25+ eg standard scaley fc130 29000rpm at 12v a group20-and a few jonston111s some with rewinds neo mags ect and standard ones-lastly hydrids. my standard factory cars mostly run standard tweeked motors-and a couple of 42000rpm fk130s of unknown make i now prefer non mag racing as its fun and a lot more skillful,ive started buiding my own copper piano wire and brass chassis to put under the resin pteg fibre glass plasticard and plastic kit cars. is there no end to the fun and pleasure you can get from these little thing. i,ll get the make and model for you if this helps, ididnt know it was the ac ripple that needed smoothing, any input from you or any electrical technical guys would be greatly appeciated. im literally in the dark, ha, ha, over this one. have a great day all. john.
rewound hornert arm-rush 36000 fc130 -scaleauto fc130s-2 falcon7s- a jk falcon 58.000rpm mini motor with end bell drive 5mm ball bearing conversion- few x12s-plafit cheetah and fox-ninco nc5s-mini mini motors like early ho-a load of fc30 motors some with advaced timing as much twist on the com without breaking the stack wires usually 5 to 25+ eg standard scaley fc130 29000rpm at 12v a group20-and a few jonston111s some with rewinds neo mags ect and standard ones-lastly hydrids. my standard factory cars mostly run standard tweeked motors-and a couple of 42000rpm fk130s of unknown make i now prefer non mag racing as its fun and a lot more skillful,ive started buiding my own copper piano wire and brass chassis to put under the resin pteg fibre glass plasticard and plastic kit cars. is there no end to the fun and pleasure you can get from these little thing. i,ll get the make and model for you if this helps, ididnt know it was the ac ripple that needed smoothing, any input from you or any electrical technical guys would be greatly appeciated. im literally in the dark, ha, ha, over this one. have a great day all. john.
Hi John
The motors that take the highest current are the ones that decide how much power you need.
From that list, the group 20 will take the highest current, followed by the super 16d. The 5 amp power supply will not be enough for these motors to produce their full power. Once you hook up a higher current supply you should find quite a lot more power, possibly rather more than is desirable for your existing chassis. Also your controller will get hotter.
A fuse in each lane should be either 10 or 15 amps would be about right for those motors. The 10 will be a bit marginal with the fastest motors, if it blows you should go to a 15.
Without a bit more info on this old 0 to 50v 40 amp variable voltage power supply you want to use I couldn't say what AC ripple it might produce.
The motors that take the highest current are the ones that decide how much power you need.
From that list, the group 20 will take the highest current, followed by the super 16d. The 5 amp power supply will not be enough for these motors to produce their full power. Once you hook up a higher current supply you should find quite a lot more power, possibly rather more than is desirable for your existing chassis. Also your controller will get hotter.
A fuse in each lane should be either 10 or 15 amps would be about right for those motors. The 10 will be a bit marginal with the fastest motors, if it blows you should go to a 15.
Without a bit more info on this old 0 to 50v 40 amp variable voltage power supply you want to use I couldn't say what AC ripple it might produce.
okay,the unit is a legg industries ltd low voltage experimental power supply. 220-240-50hz input with 0-14v 40 amp max or 14-18v ac-dc at 32ams max. i dont know if theires more info on the unit? untill i pick it up on friday night, an ebay purchase 99 pence. thanks a million john.
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I tried a Google search to see if I could find out anything about this power supply with no luck. Chances are that it does have adequate filtering. If you are obsessive about clean power you could put some 4400 microfarad 35 volt polarized capacitors across the output of the power supply.
If it's this one then if it was me I would not have it in the house.
Unclear if it's just rectified DC or has some smoothing? Very unlikely it is regulated, but with the current it's rated at that is probably not a problem. If there are some smoothing electolytics in there I would disconnect them before powering up, as most likely you will have to replace them.
It is possible that it has selenium rectifiers, in which case I would replace with silicon. Also possible that it just uses a variac to reduce the input voltage & does not have an isolating transformer, in which case I would not use it, but then I would not use it anyway.....
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If you do decide to collect it, unless you really know what you are doing, take the back off and post up some pictures before powering up.
Rich
Unclear if it's just rectified DC or has some smoothing? Very unlikely it is regulated, but with the current it's rated at that is probably not a problem. If there are some smoothing electolytics in there I would disconnect them before powering up, as most likely you will have to replace them.
It is possible that it has selenium rectifiers, in which case I would replace with silicon. Also possible that it just uses a variac to reduce the input voltage & does not have an isolating transformer, in which case I would not use it, but then I would not use it anyway.....
If you do decide to collect it, unless you really know what you are doing, take the back off and post up some pictures before powering up.
Rich
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I think Noah built that power supply!
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Is it the one Rich G has spotted ? Note what the advert says -
" Condition: For parts or not working: An item that does not function as intended or is not fully operational."
Precisely what is wrong with it is not stated, but it is looks certain it would need some work to get it into a usable state.
For somebody who has an in depth understanding of how these things work AND all the safety issues with mains electricity that might be an interesting project.
Anybody who doesn't know much about electricity would be well advised to leave it alone.
" Condition: For parts or not working: An item that does not function as intended or is not fully operational."
Precisely what is wrong with it is not stated, but it is looks certain it would need some work to get it into a usable state.
For somebody who has an in depth understanding of how these things work AND all the safety issues with mains electricity that might be an interesting project.
Anybody who doesn't know much about electricity would be well advised to leave it alone.
thaks guys, it was probably built by noahs grandad but for 99p and a 20 mile drive i,ll pick it up because i,m curious, the copper in it is worth more than 99p and the gauges ect might be salvageable, i,ll let you know on saterday afternoon. anyway beggars cant be choosers and a lot of completed rear ends tyres, alloy wheels, bronze bearings, axle and gubscrew crown gear, cost me £2.20 each and its all new stuff. i havent included P&P but if i was pendantic enough i could work it out but they would still be under £3.all the best john.
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