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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm working on a track, for a newly rebuilt basement. It will be 100% sport track, 2 lane.....it will be a permanant setup, fully landscaped. I'm wondering if there are any limits to the elevation changes?? What would be the maximum Rise/Run rates?? the space is baisicly an L shape, 20 feet X 12 feet on the long sides, and 5.5 feet wide...I'm thinking that I would like an elevation change of 2-3 feet over the length of the track (from lowest point to highest) Ideally I would like the finished product to look like it was cut out of the side of a mountain, as I have decided to call it "The Granite Ridge Circuit"

I've seen many pics of landscaped and "elevated" tracks, but it always seems as though it is just a few inches of elevation....I'm wondering if there is a reason behind this?? is the flexibility of the track a limiting factor?? Any input is appreciated
 

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This question inevitably brought to mind Archer Raceway, Vancouver.
Here is their Space Saver Track in just 8' x 2' - incredible!
Space Saver
I can't recall the total elevation change, but it looks to be a little less than a foot, by eye.
OK, its routed, but the elevation looks do-able in plastic, enough so that I think there would be no problem in producing 2' to 3' elevations in the space you have available. The need is to make the actual transition stages long enough not to produce bad vertical kinks in the steel rails, as opposed to gentler vertical bends, which they can handle just fine. It's a while since I had access to a track with bridges, but I seem to recall that it's possible to produce a reasonably smooth transition from level back and back to level again, over a 3 inch total elevation, in the space of three track sections. That makes each transition happen inside around a foot and a half, so I think, with 20 feet and 12 feet straight lengths available, you will have no problems at all. There's nothing inherently wrong with the transitions running on curves either, if necessary.

BTW, I thoroughly recommend a really good look around ALL of the several superb tracks shown on Old Slot Racer's site (Archer). They are a revelation and might well convert you to thoughts of routing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Tropi, thanks for the info


we're still the process of moving into this new place, and the wife demands that "her" rooms (kitchen, bedroom, and master bathroom) get first dibs on the renovation list....my room (the whole basement) is in need of some major reno's. Currently my slot car space, is broken up by a partition wall, and a chincy fireplace...I'm trying to sneak some work into opening up this space, because it's going on a number of months now, that I have been slot-less
I've built the table's (minus legs) and they are stacked up ready to go, I just nead to knock down a wall, and tear out a fireplace....


I'm a frequent visitor to the Archer website, and I havn't ruled out routing. I would want to setup up an initial test track in plastic, to try the layout, and get a better idea of sight lines and scenery limitations.........I am however still a speed freak......so any routed option would have to be done with braid, I love my magnuts
I've been having a very heated internal debate over this.....my nearly overwheling impatience tells me that the quickest, easiest way is plastic, I can have the course up and running in an evening. But I recognize that by routing, not only can I do pretty much anything I can dream up, but it fits better, with my vision of creating something truely spectacular. I've found (with sport track) that no matter how small the elevation change, the joint between the last level track, and the first elevated track, always has a minor "kink" to it...it seems even more pronounced going from level to a downhill slope.....I think this could be eliminated by going the routed way, creating a more realistic look, to the racing surface....

hrmmm.....it seems the more I verbalize it, the more apparent that the right choice is going to be routed....
 

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Cozmo,

I've got Sport track and my elevation change comes in a 9.5 inches. Could've kept going, but due to sighting issues on one area of the track I didn't. As long as the base that the track sits on is smooth, shouldn't be a problem. The only issue I can think of is that the track "shrinks" as you climb. Meaning the layout somewhere may not line up exactly, or have a gap between tracks. Both of those are easily fixed though.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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QUOTE Good luck and keep us posted.
I second that!
This could be a very nice project to document, with pics and we would really love to see them. Even the early thought processes, changes of mind etc, in advance of actual work, are always fascinating and can be amazingly helpful to anyone contemplating something similar.
I like the way you are thinking already - keep it coming!
 

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I used Scalextric Classic, I went up about 18"



Of course you went up about 8" along a 12' straight to a hairpin, then up the other 10" over about 13'. But you could go steeper. One note, if there was too much magnet that steep climb really heats up the motor.
 

· Allan Wakefield
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Check out the rally track in my 'So it begins..' post in 'Clubs and Events'

Although in 'Classic', I see no reason that it would not work in 'Sport'

The total elevation is 1.22metres within a 2metre depth of field.

I have not found a car that won't run on it yet but obviously, tyre choice will help and some are more slippery than others.
 
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