[Stan]

Before you spend a few hundreds on fancy-shmancy controllers, try this first!

Let's face it, the buttons on this thing seem to work OK, and it reasonably fits into the hand. So why so many posts from drivers not liking it all that much?

The answer could be in the way the trigger feels. There are days when the controller makes your finger cramp up! So are we interested in muscle building, or racing?

Here's a quick fix to breathe new life into your stock controller...

Start by popping off the top color plate, and the silver handle plate.

Good.

Now, back out the three small screws that hold the handle halves together, and note the tiny spring at the back of the trigger...

Also note where the variable resistance slider is located...

Using your fingers, or a small tool, remove the spring, and put it in something like a plastic sandwich bag so you won't lose it...

Great! See you in the next post.

 

[Stan]

Time for a road trip! We need to hit the nearest old-fashioned hardware store in town. You know, the kind with a million small drawers full of tiny bits. Bring along your sample spring from the controller. We're looking for a small extension spring with a loop on each end. We want the approximate diameter and length, but made from smaller gauge wire. I dug around Ace Hardware here in the U.S. and found a Servalite extension spring #78 that fits the bill. You can see it here on the right compared to the original...

Be sure to yank on it and make sure it takes a lot less force than the original to flex it open.

Back home, pop it in by first hooking it on the small tab on the trigger...

...and then over the post at the other end...

I'm also taking this opportunity to spray some contact cleaner onto the top and bottom of the resistance slider, as I've used this controller for a while without any maintenance...

Slap everything back together and give it a test run. You'll be surprised at how different the controller feels!

It seems like I have a much more sensitive controller than before. In fact, I have to develop a finer touch!

But I'm not feeling as compelled to trash these controllers for more costly alternatives just yet. I think I like my controller again!

 

[ViperAda]

Very nice tip. I am going to have try this with my controllers.

 

[MrFlippant]

I do believe you have just made my son VERY happy.

I don't suppose you have a part number or anything to help find the same item? I don't have any Ace near me, so if Lowes or Home Depot don't have it, I'll have to order online.
Or, is "Servalite extension spring #78" all I'll need?
Lucky me! Google landed a hit on that search at a local chain called McLendon hardware. They're like Ace, but bigger stores and less of them. I know where I'm headed tomorrow!
Thanks, Stan!

Paul, I respectfully suggest that this thread make it into your SSD 101 thread, and the new one for this winter.

 

[pault86]

Good idea, Flip, and done!

But please, anybody, feel free to add to SSD 101. It's a team effort.

I'm still lame with no pics in the SSD 101 thread - have to get a new website up.

Paul

 

[SJW]

I did the same thing as Stan and I like the Scalextric controllers now better than the Slot.it which I sold.

I used the Parma replacement spring which is lighter (PN #368), Professor Motor also makes replacement springs which should also work.

If you're using SSD Console software you can also change the throttle mapping which can "smooth" out the feel especially with non-mag cars.

Steve

 

[calwmenzies]

Great solution, now I can race properly. Well done with the tutorial.

 

[gorp]

does the trigger return to the off position better with the new spring ?

seems my scaly digital controllers have to be assisted to it often

 

[Stevef1964]

If you look at Stans original pics you'll see that below where the spring locates on the post there is another post. If you relocate the spring to that post you will cure the problem of the spring not returning to the off position.

It works. All my controllers have been mod'd that way.

Should work with Stans new spring too.

Steve

 

[Stan]

I've got 6 of the standard controllers, and so far none of them have shown signs of spring fatigue, or a blockage in the moldings that prevent them from zeroing out. Easily dealt with I would guess per Steve's suggestion.

Let me also say that my intent here is not to keep folks from supporting those who are developing high end controllers with advanced functionality. These products are much appreciated! This is just a way to make your standard controllers a bit less annoying.

Stan

 

[Stan]

Gorp, since the stock spring is quite strong, I'm wondering if there is a mechanical blockage that prevents your trigger from resting all the way back? The trigger seems to just slide a small metal clip back and forth with a rather crude open connection. Perhaps something is in the way up near the top or at the back of the trigger?

 

[RikoRocket]

QUOTE (SJW @ 18 Sep 2009, 04:43) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>If you're using SSD Console software you can also change the throttle mapping which can "smooth" out the feel especially with non-mag cars.

...Only with PB-Pro upgrade to the powerbase. Standard SSD this won't work I'm afraid.

 

[MrFlippant]

I picked up a #78 spring from McLendon's hardware and popped it in the controller. It's very weak. It feels good as far as the ease of pulling the trigger. Unfortunately, the trigger will get stuck at full throttle from time to time. Unexpectedly, not all the time. So, not something I'd want happening in a race. I used the further post right off the bat 'cus the wider spring had a hard time being so close to the button IC when using the original post, but it still wasn't strong enough to guarantee a free moving trigger 100% of the time. It also cost $2.

Steve mentioned using the Parma part, which can be had in a 6 pack for $6. I ordered a set and will post my opinions on it when I try them out.

 

[Stan]

I really appreciate all the great feedback! My throttles have been working perfectly since the spring mod. Here's a video that shows the trigger action with the rear wheel spinning. You can see that on my throttles, the motor stops before the trigger gets to its final resting position...


I suggest when installing the spring, check out the path of the trigger to make sure that wires and any plastic bits are not blocking it...

Make sure the trigger piece is smooth anywhere it can rub.

And check the path of the spring itself. When placed on the original posts, I get no binding or interference from the buttons or trigger...

However, when moving the spring to the case post as some have done, you can see the spring path is not clear...

Enjoy. This is a fun mod (that can always be removed back to stock easily) that only costs a buck or two! I'm getting faster lap times with it as well. And, it might even save you a physical therapy bill for working out those hand cramps.

... it's probably time now for me to experiment with some non-linear throttle maps in Pb-Pro!

 

[MrFlippant]

I'll open it up and take another look to check for flashing and/or other things that might cause it to stick, but the spring didn't have a clear path on mine from the normal post. When the trigger was at 0, the spring was bent around the button IC.

Anyway, I saw your video, and boy howdy do you need to glue in your rear axle bushings, dude! They seem to spin just fine, but you're losing torque and maybe some top speed because your bushings are clearly moving around when you gas and brake. Hot glue, gorilla glue, or super glue work just fine, just be sure not to get any inside the bushing on the axle. Check the motion of all your rear axles. They shouldn't be moving like that.

 

[Stan]

Hmmm... wondering if Scaley made some changes in the way the controllers are made, or if the two #78 springs are not the same?

Anyway, on to the bushings. Good suggestion Greg! I'll get on that today! I'm working to get below the 8-second threshold, so maybe this will help me do it!

Stan

 

[GregK]

Another thing that can be done whilst you have the controller apart is to rub the spindle with a very soft pencil (graphite) that the trigger pivots on.

Also apply the pencil to the curved tracked inside each half og the handle where the bottom of the trigger runs ............. see Stan's great images from the first post.

- Greg

 

[Stan]

Thanks UK Greg! Doh... why didn't I think to do that? Great suggestion!

 

[GregK]

QUOTE (MrFlippant @ 19 Sep 2009, 14:59) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>the spring didn't have a clear path on mine from the normal post. When the trigger was at 0, the spring was bent around the button IC.

I've dismantled several scontrollers to find that a couple of them exhibit the same symptom as above. Closer inspection revealed the end of the spring to be tight around the post. This was stopping the spring from moving freely with the movement of the trigger.

Greg

 

[Stan]

Great detective job Greg! So a bit of sandpaper or knife on the post, or a slight stretch of the loop with pliers should do it?

Stan