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Experimenting with Close-Ups

3981 Views 26 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  p1 Ads
Hi everyone,

Have been reading through many of these topics with interest, particularly with regard to close up images, and staging scenes, so thought I would try my hand at it. I would greatly appreciate any feedback or advice.

I recently bought some cheap 1/32 scale figures, so I set up a starting grid scenario, with pit crews, drivers and cameramen, and took some ditance as well as close up shots.

The interesting thing is the way different eras of cars photgraphed. The newer cars came up much better in close ups, I think because of the extra detail, as can be see in these two pics of an M1 and a Ferrari GTO.

Whereas the pics I took of older GT cars did not have the same impact. The best of them are:

On the other hand, when it came to distance shots, the older vintage cars looked much better. Perhaps the scalextric pitstops and scenery suited that era of car more than it did the modern cars, as a similar shot with some F40's did not have the same impact, as can be seen below:

So, what do you think?

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Depth of field can be controlled by camera exposure. The smaller the aperture (fstop... The hole where the light gets into the camera) the greater the depth of field. This is because the aperture acts like another lense. Before I got my first autofocus camera I would shoot 1:1 race cars by preseting my shutter speed to the slowest one to capture the action without blurring. I would then find my depth of field (where the car would be in focus) was on the track in front of me. Then I would wait until the car I wanted to shoot was in that range and pop the shot... After some trial and error I got pretty good. Still, my first autofocus camera, a Nikon 8008S took my photography a quantum leap forward.

Of course the smaller the f-stop the longer exposure you will need or more light on the subject.

It's helpful to have a camera where you have control over fstop and shutter speed. I would also recommend some sort of tripod and possibly shooting with a time delay on your shutter (set for 10 seconds, to eliminate vibration). For thos shots that seem red, I believe this is the color coming from the light source. If you can, select a tungsten setting for "white balance" digital cameras are much like video cameras in this regard.

FYI my digital camera is a Nikon D70

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