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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tropi,

Based on your post on SCI (and just noticed it on this board too) I went out and got some from Safeway, tried it out on the Hornby Mustang kit that I have screwed to the 'proper' chassis.

It took about 4/5 coats to get a really deep glossy appearance, the first couple of coats dried with a satin finish, it seems to need the depth of several coats to really build up a nice, "Autoglym" shine. Slapped it on with a thick modelling brush over waterslides and they showed no adverse effects whatsoever. Had a bit of a problem with air bubbles leaving pits in the Klear, but I imagine this is down to me regarding the Mustang as a car for racing so not being very neat with the brush. Perhaps a bit of fine rubbing compound inbetween coats might resolve this if the car was going on the display shelf.

Brush washed out in warm, soapy water, each coat was ready to repaint in about 30-40 minutes - the back of the bottle claims 20 minutes for floors, but I imagine that by rubbing it onto a wood floor with a soft rag you are applying less at a time and the porous nature of wood will suck it up and dry faster.

Not crash-tested it yet.... meant to go club racing on Friday night but had an allergy attack on the afternoon and didn't feel up to driving out in adverse weather to the club-house. Certainly feels like a tough finish though. Assuming it is up to protecting the paint from the odd mishap it looks far superior (and cheaper and easier to use) then the polyurethane gloss varnish i used to use on HO cars.

Coop
 

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Thanks for the super feedback, Coop!
Spreading the knowledge is great.

I have faint recollections of the American guys saying that a little experimentation may be needed in how thick the coats should be. I formed the impression that a large brush should be used, with minimal brushing, rather than a small brush and a lot of fiddling about and back-brushing, which might adversely affect the finish. Enough liquid to self level seem to be the aim.

Rubbing down in between coats wasn't mentioned and I suspect it might actually be better without. But, again, experimentation on something that doesn't matter, is the key.
 

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I haven't used the stuff myself, but it has been discussed numerous times on the slot boards over the years. Some people swear by it, others claim it tends to yellow over time, esp. when used over light colors or white roundels. No definitive answer I guess.

mp
 

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Rich Dumas
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I have used "Future" floor wax with good results. I coat decals with it so they won't dissolve when I put on a clear laquer. I have also covered the entire car with good results as well. You can strip the stuff off with a solution of household cleaner and ammonia, but I would test the cleaning solution on some painted sample to make sure the paint wouldn't be harmed. Being a methodical person I have determined that "Future" is 75% water.
 

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QUOTE I have determined that "Future" is 75% water.
But does it also contain:
< 5% Phosphates
5-15% Polycaboxylates
Unspecified Preservatives


The destructions (ie instructions for removal) say:
200-250 mls household ammonia in 3 litres of water
But that's for a floor! The dilution is around 12-15:1 - ie fairly weak.
Leave wet for 5 minutes, scrub, rinse and dry
Repeat if necessary.
 

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Alan Tadd
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Sounds promising, but I think I will stick to my Homebase Plasti-kote Clear Sealer, works on enamel and acrylic car paints and doesn't harm decals and it's cheap!.



The red paint is Enamel, the Hardtop is acrylic white, (toyota I think), and the Decals are Patto's.

Regards

Alan
 

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The E type looks great!

On the basis of 'spreading the word' there is currently a similar topic over at SCI.
It discusses doing the job with a broad, soft brush vs 'dunking in a bowl of goo.
Worth a look
But don't forget to come back!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For the record I finally got around to racing the Johnson Klear finished car last night and it seemed to hold up to the abuse of the "two magnet" class quite nicely. Same can't be said for the plastic grille or it's owners nerves!

Coop
 
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