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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This car is a resin-cast slot model designed by the french artisan PROTO SLOT KIT and belongs to the GHOSTMODEL range. It was issued some years ago and i probably bought one of the very last item available at French stockists.

By crachepiquette at 2012-01-24[/img]

The body was pre-painted in red (road car). I stripped the paint (rather uneasy and incomplete) in the idea to design a new livery. I intend to depict # 14 entered at Le Mans race in 1961 (silver painted with a blue middle stripe). Belgian Pierre Noblet and Frenchman Jean Guichet were behind the steering wheel. They won the GT class and finished third overall.

By crachepiquette at 2012-01-24[/img]

I've added or prepared some additional details of my own:

Inside rear view mirror (sprue and Evergreen plasticard).
Indicators on the front wings (pieces of sprue sculpted and sanded after being glued).
Reflectors on rear bonnet (1/43rd rectangular lights).
Rear bonnet opener (Sprue and plasticard).
Registration plates ("Open Office" black and white draw printed on auto-adhesive strong paper).
Gear shift (Sprue ant Tamiya putty).

By crachepiquette at 2012-01-24[/img]

Guide, rear axle, pinion (9 teeth) and bearings are NINCO parts. Chassis is a CARTRIX Slot Classic one. Axles needed to be shortened. CARTRIX TX 1 motor isn't very powerful (about 14000 RPM),but it's enough for me. Anyway, I couldn't achieve in fitting correctly the NC8 NINCO motor in the CARTRIX car frame.

Spoked wheels are the so nice looking BRM ones (screw nuts have not been fixed for the moment).
These wheels are sold unassembled and you have to carefully assembly them. For a better realism, it is recommended to paint the interior of the hubs with black paint.

By crachepiquette at 2012-01-24[/img]

The bottom of air intakes and radiator area are also painted in matt black. This will be masked before body painting.

Car is now nearly ready to be painted...
 

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Sorry John did you just say something?



Only I was busy planning the 1:32 car and though I heard something...

(Seriously, no guarantee either of these will get finished for the summer or indeed be worth running).

Sorry HAPPY, now back to your thread!

Coop
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Painting is nearly finished...

As some modern aircrafts modellers do, i sprayed a matt black undercoat instead of the traditional white or light grey primary, in the idea of giving more depth to the silver colour. It also allows to outline the intaglio engraving (doors, bonnets...).

By crachepiquette at 2012-02-21[/img]

3 coats of MR HOBBY H8 chrome silver were sprayed and 2 additional coats of blue (2/3 H5 gloss blue and 1/3 H1 gloss white).

By crachepiquette at 2012-02-21[/img]

Some details have to be painted apart: Indicators and rear lights (clear orange and clear red), doors openers, filler cap, windows uprights (HUMBROL metal cote). After a black wash in the intaglio engreaving, the body will receive several coats of gloss varnish before and after applying decals...
 

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Hi everybody.

About stripping the paint:

I had many traps with that, as the original paint seems to be an industrial one, which is much more resistant than a modelling paint.
I first tried sand paper (very light) in order to dull the varnish and then i submerged the body in 90 ° alcohol, but nothing occured. Then, i tried washing powder including soda but it was also nearly ineffective. I continued with oven cleaner and ended with nail varnish remover.
But it wasn't enough and i had to remove some residual paint with a modelling knife. By doing this, i badly scratched the body in many areas and had to sand it and fill tiny splits with putty...

Morality: Stripping isn't my favorite hobby


Cheers
 

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Things are quietly making their way, but i'm not satisfied with the black figures...

By crachepiquette at 2012-03-03[/img]

They look a little bit too small and thin, but I had no larger ones. Due to these wrong figures, the Ferrari logo on the front bonnet isn't partly applied on the number four as it should...

Some parts have been painted in a "polished steel" tone. It's a personnal choice I made with the idea of breaking the overall chrome silver tone of the body. This choice should be obviously discussed or criticized.

By crachepiquette at 2012-03-03[/img]

Sits are painted in blue (Tamiya XF 8). Painting is inspired by picts of the CMC 1/18th static model.
Gear shift is made with the upper part of a needle, but is the knob not oversized?

By crachepiquette at 2012-03-03[/img]

Prominent parts have been slightly drybrushed with light blue in order to allow some more contrast and depht.

By crachepiquette at 2012-03-03[/img]

The other pilot is reserved for my next kit: A Yellow Ferrari 250 LWB (another fine model designed by Chris Boyer/ PSK - Ghostmodel) seen at Le Mans in 1959. Pilot sit and interior are drybruhed whith various tones of tan, dark slate grey and light brown...

By crachepiquette at 2012-03-03[/img]
Of course, pilots legs are false. They have been roughly painted in a kind of "trompe l'oeil" manner.
I know; Helmets shouldn't be painted in a red or black colour, but i'm weakwilled and i coudn't resist temptation of adding a colourful touch...

As ancient romans said: In cauda venenum... In fact I fear the following steps, cause I frequently make bad mistakes at the very end of assembling kits...The glazing step should be a quite hazardous one I guess...
 

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Lots of sanding with wet & dry paper (used wet) will work on a Protoslot. Start with 400 grade. Be patient, don't force it and wait till the paint starts showing up on your paper. You'll find that the first layer is a gloss lacquer (you'll see a yellowish residue coming off onto your paper). After that's gone, the paint underneath is reasonably soft. After you get to the underlying resin you should repeat, lightly with 600 then 800 then 1000 grade.

Cheers

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The car is now finished. Final result seems to me not as good as I hoped...
In fact, I didn't check enough the correct assembly of each part with each others before painting.
Thus, I had some difficulties when fitting the glasses and had to use Cristal Clear. Rectifications shouldn't be too visible I hope.
Knob on the gear shift has been replaced by a smaller one.
Left pair of exhausts is partly covered with a thin sheet of metal (unused part found on an old photo-etched sheet designed for aircrafts models).
Had the front and rear tyres the same size (as on the real Ferrari), should the visual effect probably be enhanced. Nevertheless, I decided to keep larger tyres at rear, in order to gain some road holding and stability on track. By doing this, I had to cut and sand the resin part featuring the pilot and sits above the wheels to allow them to turn correctly.
During the Le Mans race, this car had just one windscreen wiper fitted.
I'm usually fond of weathering effects and kit bashing technicals. Anyway, I choose to let the model in a tidy state, as it probably was before starting the race.

By crachepiquette at 2012-03-10[/img]

By crachepiquette at 2012-03-10[/img]


By crachepiquette at 2012-03-10


By crachepiquette at 2012-03-10


By crachepiquette at 2012-03-10
 
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