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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I'm chipping a Ninco Porsche right now, and the chip I have has no Ferrite man(men?). So what do I need two? How close do they need to be to the motor/braids? Do I Ner to insulate the wires all the way to them?
Thanks for your help.

Heath
 

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What type of chip are you using Heath??
 

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Actually that's something I wondered to.
I guess the best place is as per factory settings as close to the motor and also the guide.
In a few instances where this isn't possible I have added some wire and extended the ferret men about 50mm away.
This hasn't given me any problems so far.
Lee
 

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On theC7005 chip I often cut the yellow and green wires about half way along their length and resolder the ferrite man at the join. This makes it easier to attach to the guide as you have flexible wires to attach to the guide rather than the stiff legs of the ferrite man.

Not had any problems with interference.

In some cases the ferrite man has been as close as possible to the chip end of the guide wires where front end space is at a premium.

From my experience I can conclude that as long as the ferrite man is somewhere between the braids and the chip you will be OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you all for your replies. I am using c7006 rev g chip, but it sounds like that doesn't matter too much? I am going to go forward with just putting the man where it fits best and go from there. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
Heath
 

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QUOTE (vesa mononen @ 4 Jan 2015, 14:38) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>this works fine
I don't have any problems

View attachment 13129

If that works fine, then I wonder if the orientation of the ferrite man even matters? RichG? RikoRocket? GregK?
 

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My mistake it's rev E. Got the chip all hooked up and nothing. Then I saw these 4 prongs on the back...


On my other chips, there were two ferrite men on those prongs. With them gone, does it break continuity?
Heath
 

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QUOTE (MrFlippant @ 5 Jan 2015, 05:40) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>If that works fine, then I wonder if the orientation of the ferrite man even matters? RichG? RikoRocket? GregK?

If by orientation you mean which side of the binocular core you place the ceramic disk capacitor then no - it makes no difference. The current has to pass through the core, it doesn't seem to matter which side the orange disk is placed.

@ Flag Slot Racer - the 4 pins are simply the other end of the 4 wires going into the white box. The pins are where the wires are connected in to the board. Having ferrite men attached to these 4 pins would only make sense if the wires were soldered via the ferrite men to the pins rather than being inserted into the white box.

Not having ferrite men on the chip in your photo is not the reason your chip is failing.

Do you have a multimeter? Can you check that your guide wires and motor wires are intact?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Mr Modifier. I didn't think that would be it.
I have tested continuity to the guide and to the motor and everything seems to be in order. So the only remaining thing would be that I reprogrammed the chip to incar Pro. I am going to try programming it again. Is there some good way to confirm that the programming took? It seems when I try the verify code out of PicKit2 it just errs out.

Heath
 

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The signals must pass through the FM if you connect them to the protruding pins then the signal is already passing through the circuitry and they are useless. The FMs have to be connected either at the end of the wires or in the middle of them to offer maximum protection to prevent disruption of the firmware.

If you are certain that the C7006 really does work then even if you do not fix the FMs in place the chip should still run the motor even if it is only for a moment or two. I would re-check all the wiring with a multimeter to ensure integrity.

What are the red & brown wires to the left of the chip ..... are they for lighting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey GregK,
Thanks for the reply. Foolish me, I updated the chip firmware before I installed the chip, so I am not a 100% positive that the chip is good, although nothing has led me to believe otherwise, other than the car not responding at all. The extra wires you see are the wires I connect to upgrade the chip to ICP. I left them on in case I had problems.
Heath
 

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Re-flashing to ICP require a minimum of 4 wires, 5 if you are supplying 5V from the programmer ....... I can only see two .....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
QUOTE (GregK @ 5 Jan 2015, 21:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Re-flashing to ICP require a minimum of 4 wires, 5 if you are supplying 5V from the programmer ....... I can only see two .....

I promise you I am using 5 wires! Although apparently not very well.

Heath
 

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What programming software are you using?
 

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Do you see this after running the program?



I am only interested in any differences between the HEX code shown in the boxes ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
To tell you the truth, I was more focused on the programming successful part, so I wasn't looking at the hex code part. I'll re run it tonight and verify. I am erasing the chip before I run the "Auto Import Hex + Write Device". I was going to do it last night, but one of the solder points broke and I didn't have time to re-solder it last night.

Thanks for your help Greg,

Heath
 

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This is an old Chestnut ........... do it like this .......
Click on File and choose Import Hex ... and select the v3.3 file
Next, click on Write and it should work
It's the erasing that is screwing you over .......


Invoice is in the post ....
 
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