SlotForum banner

Few Questions about my first Slot.It car

984 Views 51 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  P944guy
Picked up this PORSCHE 962C LH 1988 - Le Mans / #18 - B. Wollek, V. Schuppan, S.V.d. Merwe and am really liking it so far. I installed the chip and turned a few laps during lunch and like the feel of it. My track is kind of dusty so it was sliding a bit after a few laps picking up some dust ;-(. Until now I've only had the starter set Ginettas and two other Scalextric branded cars. I wanted to give a third party a try and have always like the 962 from AFX HO days.

Some questions:

1) The "ferrite man" components are not needed with this car, correct? My understanding that it may be needed with alternate motors that don't already have a board or circuit to suppress motor electrical noise? Seems to work fine so far with the lane changers etc.

2) What are the parts in the other bag used for? Is that some kind of conversion kit for a different guide blade, perhaps for different track types or something like that?

3) How does one change the braids in this kind of car? It doesn't use the quick-change style discs found on my other cars. The braids look to be integrated into the guide blade itself. Speaking of, the guide blade looks to be a snap-in type vs screw-in found on my other cars.

Any other pointers or links would be appreciated.


Vehicle Material property Font Motor vehicle Automotive lighting
See less See more
1 - 7 of 52 Posts
1) Not so long as the car is behaving itself, especially if the motor already has an EMI filtering board on it, as recent slot.it cars do. But, if the motor is without that PCB, and/or the car behaves erratically, it's best to install the ferrite man, paying close attention to the proper way to install them (as seen on Scalextric cars). There are plenty of cars out there that run fine without them, because they have relatively clean running motors. As long as you remember that a given car does not have it, and are prepared to install it should the car misbehave, you can leave them off. Personally, I install them on any car without the PCB as a matter of course, so I don't have to deal with it later.

2) The plastic bit is part of the clip to help hold the chip in. The hex wrench/key is for adjusting set screws on the car, such as those that hold the wheels and gear on the rear axle, or that set the ride height of the front axle... or in some cases, that hold the braid/wire into the guide.

3. If the guide has set screws in the top of it, just unscrew those. You can then pull the wire out, and pull the worn braid out to replace it. You'll want to pick up a meter of braid. Lean toward thinner/lighter braid if you have a choice. Put the new braid in, put the wire in, and re-install the set screw. Some cars will have an eyelet on the end of the wire that just presses into the top of the guide, and this pressure is what keeps the braid in place. The first few times you do it will be challenging, but you'll get better at it.

As for your final question... read lots of posts. :)
See less See more
  • Like
  • Helpful
Reactions: 3
I'll beat Gary to it... :p

  • Like
Reactions: 2
Thanks Greg. I’ll watch at lunch today. He even calls them “professional”. Whoa. The toys I have seen pretty fast as well. :). Which brand do you prefer?
As with just about any question in this hobby... it depends. :)

If I were given the choice between brands, in a situation where every single brand offered the exact same car (body and livery) and so my choice was purely from a performance standpoint... cost/value being entirely aside... I'd probably go with NSR. Tying in a really close second would be Thunderslot, ScaleAuto, RevoSlot, and MR Slotcar, with slot.it being a close third.

They're all great cars, but in my experience, NSR have been the closest to race ready out of the box with little to no need for any fettling while still being relatively robust and straightforward, no overcomplicated chassis and pod to make things more challenging. Pretty much the only thing they need right out of the box, for me, is front axle setting. They come floppy and loose out of the box because they're designed to run on NINCO track, which tends to be fairly bumpy, so fixing the front axle in place can be problematic, while on a more flat/smooth track like practically everything else, it's beneficial to set it at a fixed height.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Yes, those cars tend to be more challenging to chip, and pretty much all require you to desolder/solder to the motor.
As Gary said, they're great in all situations. I race primarily on home/garage tracks.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
The chip can fit in there longitudinally, which will be fine for Scalextric Digital or oXigen. For Carrera Digital, you'll need to put an LED on wires in order to put it off to the side. It won't be as plug and play as the Porsche, no.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
No, just strip some of the insulation off and re-insert it, then re-install the set screw. It's best to put the braid between the wire and set screw, because the screw can, and does, cut the wire, but does not damage the braid nearly as much. And yes, that pressure will keep the wire in just fine, so long as it has enough slack to not pull out when the guide rotates to its extremes.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I'm not sure there's even room enough for all the wires with both connectors and the chip in there, especially not if you're hoping to achieve a modicum of body float, or pod float, which is generally desirable for non-mag racing.

Why did slot.it do this? Time. The GT40 model was made/designed long before the connectors came into use in their cars, and even the first models were sold as not being compatible with digital, because their first chips were quite large, and only fit into the Group C cars. Fortunately, smaller chips have come out, but the chassis and body for that car are almost the same as original... very little room in between them.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
1 - 7 of 52 Posts
Top