Lol. I actually have a bunch. Took this picture before I added them on. I don’t have enough for all the turns. Starts to add up. I tried some Tyco HO rails. They fit and work, but make it too easy to take turns fast.Without shoulders you aren't racing.
Few Questions about my first Slot.It car
Picked up this PORSCHE 962C LH 1988 - Le Mans / #18 - B. Wollek, V. Schuppan, S.V.d. Merwe and am really liking it so far. I installed the chip and turned a few laps during lunch and like the feel of it. My track is kind of dusty so it was sliding a bit after a few laps picking up some dust ;-(. Until now I've only had the starter set Ginettas and two other Scalextric branded cars. I wanted to give a third party a try and have always like the 962 from AFX HO days.
Some questions:
1) The "ferrite man" components are not needed with this car, correct? My understanding that it may be needed with alternate motors that don't already have a board or circuit to suppress motor electrical noise? Seems to work fine so far with the lane changers etc.
2) What are the parts in the other bag used for? Is that some kind of conversion kit for a different guide blade, perhaps for different track types or something like that?
3) How does one change the braids in this kind of car? It doesn't use the quick-change style discs found on my other cars. The braids look to be integrated into the guide blade itself. Speaking of, the guide blade looks to be a snap-in type vs screw-in found on my other cars.
Any other pointers or links would be appreciated.
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Some questions:
1) The "ferrite man" components are not needed with this car, correct? My understanding that it may be needed with alternate motors that don't already have a board or circuit to suppress motor electrical noise? Seems to work fine so far with the lane changers etc.
2) What are the parts in the other bag used for? Is that some kind of conversion kit for a different guide blade, perhaps for different track types or something like that?
3) How does one change the braids in this kind of car? It doesn't use the quick-change style discs found on my other cars. The braids look to be integrated into the guide blade itself. Speaking of, the guide blade looks to be a snap-in type vs screw-in found on my other cars.
Any other pointers or links would be appreciated.
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Glad you included the bit about the braids. My car was cutting in and out and finally lost power entirely. I opened it up and sure enough the wire had broken off one of the braids. Mine has the screw in to hold it. The pressure is good enough to hold the wire in? Does anyone solder wire to the braid before inserting it?1) Not so long as the car is behaving itself, especially if the motor already has an EMI filtering board on it, as recent slot.it cars do. But, if the motor is without that PCB, and/or the car behaves erratically, it's best to install the ferrite man, paying close attention to the proper way to install them (as seen on Scalextric cars). There are plenty of cars out there that run fine without them, because they have relatively clean running motors. As long as you remember that a given car does not have it, and are prepared to install it should the car misbehave, you can leave them off. Personally, I install them on any car without the PCB as a matter of course, so I don't have to deal with it later.
2) The plastic bit is part of the clip to help hold the chip in. The hex wrench/key is for adjusting set screws on the car, such as those that hold the wheels and gear on the rear axle, or that set the ride height of the front axle... or in some cases, that hold the braid/wire into the guide.
3. If the guide has set screws in the top of it, just unscrew those. You can then pull the wire out, and pull the worn braid out to replace it. You'll want to pick up a meter of braid. Lean toward thinner/lighter braid if you have a choice. Put the new braid in, put the wire in, and re-install the set screw. Some cars will have an eyelet on the end of the wire that just presses into the top of the guide, and this pressure is what keeps the braid in place. The first few times you do it will be challenging, but you'll get better at it.
As for your final question... read lots of posts.
Any idea how hard this is to chip? Probably same challenges as the Ford above? Chassis looks the same.
<b>412P</b> | 24h Le Mans 1967
<br/>412P<br/> #23 R. Attwoode, P. Courage<br/> 24h Le Mans 1967<br/> <b>cod. CAR06c</b><br/>
www.policar.it
Most likely it is has a similar level of difficulty.Any idea how hard this is to chip? Probably same challenges as the Ford above? Chassis looks the same.
<b>412P</b> | 24h Le Mans 1967
<br/>412P<br/> #23 R. Attwoode, P. Courage<br/> 24h Le Mans 1967<br/> <b>cod. CAR06c</b><br/>
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