[Bigtone]

Despite fitting a larger Slot.It guide to my NSR corvette the front was just sliding out of the slot on our wide fast corners. Decided to fit a TSRF guide as in the picture, it is much deeper. I had to remove some of the plastic from the chasis to allow the larger guide to move freely and also loose the radiator which is part of the chassis. I added some alloy mesh to the aperture in the front of the body to cover the rads absence. The lead wires were soldered to brass tabs I fitted to the guide and I can now use push fit braids. I didnt use the nut in the picture, I cut the post down and it is held in place with a self tapper and a washer. The car now stays in on the wide corners and seems to handle better. I don't think this guide would be of benefit on a plastic track but works well on our routed track

 

[RichD]

I presume that you tried the Slot.it CH07 wood track guide. I would have thought that it would have been deep enough. With 1/24th guides such as the one pictured there is usually are usually holes in the top through which you insert the lead wires before you slide in the braids. If you solder the wire to the metal clip that holds the braids it is more likely that the wire will fatigue and eventually break right where the solder ends.

 

[Bigtone]

Hi Rich, yes I did try the Slot.It guide first and it didn't work too well although it was better than the standard guide. I fitted a piece of thin brass in each braid slot and bent I back over the front and soldered the wire to these. This is the way all BRSCA type cars work and have never had a problem with a lead wore breakin. These guides aren't specifically for 1/24th cars and are intended as a replacement for hard bodied cars of most kinds

 

[Screwneck]

Easier to simply fit a deeper NSR guide, for sure.

 

[Bigtone]

tried it, didn't work and you still have those fiddly ferrules to deal with

 

[Jimmy in Greece]

I think you may have fixed the wrong problem with the right solution or something like that. The problem you describe is typically not a guide depth problem in itself but a front wheel assy setup problem. Too much front wheel drag usually causes this symptom. the solution lies with setting up the the front end to unload weight off the front wheels and on to the guide. This can be done in several ways or combos of these. First, running the car without front tires should immediately have improved the situation. If it does you need to lower the guide blade a bit with a spacer or two or use smaller diameter front tires. Other items which help after these first two is to increase the side to side movement of the front axle, raise the front axle assy, add a small amount of weight up front, and reduce the friction of the front tires (nail polish, super glue,etc). The TSRF guide because of its design probably did the first thing(lowered the guide). Had it been a guide depth problem then the Slotit or NSR deep guides should have fixed your problem also. So your problem was most likely the above. Though it's old and a bit outdated this is discussed somewhere in my tuning article: http://www.homeracingworld.com/slotcartuni...20TUNING%20TIPS

Cheers,
Jimmy

 

[Bigtone]

Hi Jimmy, tried all the things you suggested and they didn't work so the TSRF guide was my last resort. I think the main problem is that our track is old and the slot has worn, time for some refurbishment.

 

[Jimmy in Greece]

The important thing is that the problem is fixed. The only other real difference that the TSRF guide provides and this may be why it helped is that I think the blade is a slight bit thicker. This might reduce the side to side movement of the guide and front of the car in the turn. I ran into a similar problem several years ago on a routed track which I fixed with a cut down parma guide that has quite a bit thicker blade than the standard plastic chassis guide. It was for a Proxy race so I never could experiment with other fixes using the same track conditions. Since that time whenever I send a car to race on a routed track I use either a TSRF, Parma or old MRRC guide specifically made for routed tracks; not just for the added depth but also for the added blade width since most routed slots are wider than the ones in plastic track. I hadn't considered that possibility in my previous post but that could be the difference you're seeing on your particular track. Your "worn slot" comment might be the clue.
If your interested I can send you some other guides to experiment with. If so send me a msg with address to send them to.
Cheers.
Jimmy

 

[Bigtone]

Hi JImmy
Thanks for the offer but I think I have about every guide made in my spares box, and I am happy with the TSRF