SlotForum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am trying to decide if it is less trouble fitting a HRS motor cradle into a fly chassis, then all the trimming needed to get a BMW 3.5 CSL body over a HRS chassis. Anybody try intrgrating a motor cradle into a FLy chassis?

GenXRacer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,600 Posts
Hi GenX.
Congratulations on your first post.
I put a Slot.it motor mount into a Proslot Toyota GT1 last year when the original motor and axle mounts fell off. The Proslot chassis is basically a flat pan so cutting out the hole for the new mount was simple enough. The only tricky bit was gluing in some styrene shims under the Slot.it mount's screw lugs so that it's bottom surface was flush with the bottom of the chassis.
It worked great but whether it would transfer to a Fly car and still be competitive with a well set-up HRS chassised car is another question.
Regards,
Lowrider.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,226 Posts
I guess that you by trimming mean the interrior?
Well, you would need to trim some yes.
Which partly is a shame, and the clue of the front motor cars.
But you will get a better car, yes. Even if Fly front motors are almost perfectly set up as they are.

/Erik
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,226 Posts
Oops, sorry. Yes, I tried, found it not very effecient.
Either change chassie, to the HRS, or upgrade the Fly one with such parts.
Does wonder, but you still
need to be able to get them things togetehr for speed and fun off course, but none need to tell you that, right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Thanks for the replies... you can only lurk so long!

Biggest problem seems to be getting some decent rubber into the back wheel wells. HRS much wider at the back than the Fly chasiss. Also BMW CLS is VERY narrow and HIGH at the point where the four spikes would meet body. Now I know why I have not seen this car refitted this way. I wonder how much carving the HRS chassis will take before it suffers? Any suggestions on how to make this work?





Distance of Beamerbody to body at posts is 47.6mm... HRS chassis is 44.3mm from post base to postbase.

Thanks,

GenXRacer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,226 Posts
Basically you have to cut away to much of the original chassie to make it work, far better to use the HRS all the way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,600 Posts
Hi again GenX, and Ghost.
How wide is your Beamer?
I've been using the Slot.it mount in some scratch-built chassis' for the forth-coming small car proxy race and by trimming the mount into a rectangle shape (plus the four screw tabs of course) I've managed to get the track down to 48.5mm. There's another 1mm or so reduction possible too, I simply stopped when the wheels stopped touching the 356 body.
The wideness of the HRS chassis is it's only drawback in my opinion. I think it was designed that way so the sidewinder mount could be an option. Fine for modern sports cars but not so good for older prototypes or open wheel race cars.
Maybe we should try to wheedle a narrow version on to Maurizio's to-do list?
Regards,
Lowrider.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,226 Posts
For sure, a more narrow one would be nice. There's quite a few static models that could benfit from a good chassie.
Even if I like the idea behind the PCS32 I want a smooth one for a car that I've put work and effort into, even if I then run it with a simple NC1.
But it is possible to cut the HRS down quite alot, or make one from scratch around the motor mount as such. Usually it could be done straight into the original statics chassie too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Anyone done any carving on the HRS chassis? Recommendations for an adhesive... I think I will try the steel filled epoxy.

Still wondering...

GenXRacer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,600 Posts
Hi GenX.
Looking at the photos of your BMW gave me a plan B idea.
How about removing the side posts of the HRS chassis altogether and making up some vertical posts out of styrene tubing. These could be glued to the underside of the body to line up with the two screw holes in the HRS.
The plus side to mounting the body in this 'conventional' way would be that you'd be able to set up some body rock by loosening the screws a tad, and that removing the body for maintenance wouldn't be as nerve-grating as stretching the body over the HRS side posts.
What do you think?
Lowrider.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,226 Posts
The triangular area can be filed into a post, thus solving it.
Strangely enought the HRS take sanding quite well.
Or perhaps not so strange, as it's a very good product!

Something you will notice when you realise you got some sanding to do to fit the RP001... But it look as if you use some totally different engine.

Regarding the mentioned "nerve grating"... I uch prefer that over the constant risk of splitting a post, or draw the plastic round... But that's me!


/Erik
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
313 Posts
lowrider, that is what the guys do at our club. It works great and you can get quite a bit of body roll this way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,600 Posts
Hi Mampara.
I've used the same technique quite a few times for fitting various Ninco chassis under static kit bodies and stuff.
It works for me.
I'm considering doing a chassis conversion for the Fly Zakspeed Capri or I may just wind up buying the Racing version and decorating that. The plan view of the Capri body looks a bit similar to GenX's
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi guys,

Once again, thanks for all the suggestions. I eventually tried a different route which so far, seems to work. I sawed off the spikes, and moved them to the top of the HRS frame. Epoxy is holding things in place so far and the body is positioned right for the wheels and guide. Not the prettiest solution...I guess only time and collisions will tell if the refit will work.




By the way, I have both Fly Special Edition and competition Capri and have posted a few observations about them. Have a look if you are interested.
Capri compare

Cheers,

GenxRacer
QUOTE (lowrider @ 28 Jan 2005, 16:47)Hi Mampara.
I've used the same technique quite a few times for fitting various Ninco chassis under static kit bodies and stuff.
It works for me.
I'm considering doing a chassis conversion for the Fly Zakspeed Capri or I may just wind up buying the Racing version and decorating that. The plan view of the Capri body looks a bit similar to GenX's
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top