[c5r]

Hello,
I'm entering a Fly Classic Race and would appreciate some tips for tuning a Fly Daytona. The key is race tune, but you get points for the keeping stock parts. However I will change out needed items... whatever it takes to be competitive, I mean win.
Thanks!!!!

 

[McLaren]

My two solutions:

Low Cost:
All stock parts. Glue in motor, propshaft bearing and rear axel bearings. True the back wheels by spinning them against sand paper until they are perfectly round. Replace tyres and repeat the process trueing the tyres to the wheels. Glue the tyres to the rims around the edges. Make sure that the braids are making good contact by straightening them and flicking them up slightly at the end. Make sure that the body doesn't rattle at all, which may mean having to glue the interior and additional parts (lights, grilles, etc.) to the main body to prevent vibration. Make sure the body doesn't rub on the chassis or wheels at all. If it does, scrape it away with a sharp knife or some sandpaper. Losen the screws a couple of turns, and away you go.

Fastest:
Replace rear axel with Slot.It. Cheapest wheels are standard ones, then lightweight ones, then magnesium. As they get lighter, they get better, but more expensive. Also, replace the front wheels with these wheels. Remove inserts from all wheels. Add Slot.It Zero grip tyre to the front and grind them down to as small as you can get them, round off the edges. Replace rear tyres with aftermarket ones (see below). The gear ratio depends on what track you are running on (see below). Replace motor (see below). Replace interior with a lightweight vacuum formed version. Replace guide with a Slot.It deep guide, and cut it down until it is deep enough to just clear the bottom of the slot. Replace the braid with SCX or Slot.It soft braid. Use silicone wire instead of standard.

Right, now you need to give us some more information. What manufacture of track is it that you are running on? Sport, Classic, Ninco, Carrera or other. What kind of track is it? Short and twisty or long and fast. What's the power like? Are you racing with or without magnets?

If you are racing without magnets, you should probably put around 5 grams of weight around the rear axel to aid traction, though this is not essential.

If you are running on Sport track, use Ortmann, Proslot or Slot.It P3 tyres. If you are running on Classic, Ninco, Carrera or routed use Proslot or Slot.It.

If it's a short and twisty track, try a gear ratio of 9 tooth pinion to 30 tooth contrate, and if it's long and fast try 9 / 24. To start use 9 / 27 for most tracks and work from there.

Motors: Slot.It V12's are good on high power, but not too good on standard power. A Fly Racing motor or NC4 would be better for lower powered tracks.

Hope this helps, awaitng response...

Mclaren

 

[c5r]

McLaren,
Hey, Thanks for the fast reply. You gave me some great info. I'm new to the modifying game so all the help is appreciated. I'm including a link for the race info. If it doesn't work let me know.
http://www.homeracingworld.com/tunaclassic.htm

For know I'm planning on running the magnet class, maybe two cars; one fairly stock and the other set up for top speed.
The track is Artin and the power supply is Pyramid adjustable set at 12 volts.
The link I provided tells about the race and from there a link with a picture and more on the track.
If you need more info let me know.
Again Thanks!
Rick

 

[Screwneck]

Get the hubs off and fit a set of new Ninco Porsche 934 hubs and tyres. Lowers the car by about 1mm and pulls that almost useless magnet to the track (if it's a magnetic track!). Fit a Fly Racer motor (a few versions have it as standard) and you have a stunner with good rpm (about 23/24000) and tremendous torque (better than any SlotIt that fits the Fly chassis) plus softer tyres and greater magnet adhesion.

 

[Screwneck]

Forgot...Ninco hubs are 0.2mm larger-shafted than Fly so you'll have to glue them on with a tiny dab of epoxy on the tip of axle ends (or use a Ninco axle, bearings pinion and gear with ratio to suit the track layout).

Mind, you, it's fiddly to get the hubs perfectly on with glue and keep them true if you keep the Fly axles.

 

[c5r]

Thanks Screwneck. If I choose this technique, I would probably change the entire assembly as I hate depending on glue as much as possible. Is this axle assembly available to purchase at a shop or would I need a donor car.
Thanks again.

 

[Screwneck]

C5R, I bought the silver/gold Ninco Porsche 934 hubs and tyres from stock spares and used a trimmed calibrated 53mm Cartrix axle and bearings from Gaugemaster. Cartrix axles are a fraction wider than Fly and allow Ninco hubs to be fitted perfectly as you trim the axle length for fit/remove/dremel exact fit without ruining the interior hub shaft union. The Fly contrate can be removed and refitted to the axle with the right tools and it fits well as cartrix axles are 0.1mm wider than Fly so the worn gear hole really grips the axle well. However, a Scalex gear is just as good and works OK with a Fly pinion.

However, you MUST add a drop of epoxy to the axle tip or the hubs will spin after a few laps.

If you want to avoid epoxy, it should work easier with a Ninco axle (I don't know which length but go for the longest and cut it down with a dremel) but use the Ninco bearings too as the axle will not fit through Fly or Scalex. If you get a Ninco axle then you'll have to use the Ninco axle gear as squeezing on a Fly or Scalex may ruin the gear mesh if the gear warps. You will then have to fit a Ninco 9t pinion to the motor (will reduce slightly reduce acceleration from Fly 8t version) or buy a SlotIt 8t for Ninco.

The front hubs must use a stub axle so I used a Scalex brass pair from an old Cadillac/Opel V8. The crosshatched grip just about holds the wider Ninco hub shaft, but another drop of epoxy holds them solid. And you have to trim down the axle chassis housing to allow enough length to get in the hub. I've made custom fit stubbies with cut-down ninco axles held in place by epoxy-glued styrene tubing that act as axle stops. You'll still have to trim the axle chassis housing as the Ninco hub and tyre will rub on the body as they protrude about 1mm further than the Fly hubs.

It's a bit of a fiddle, but the car goes like a bomb afterwards and keeps its light touch (and that's with a standard Fly motor...it would be a killer with a Fly Racer motor). The Ninco hubs look stunning too; not accurate, but much better looking than the Fly standard hubs for this model.

 

[Harry Porsche]

Good magnet car! The one that runs on the P.C.o.D holds the fastest lap title (raw speed). I installed an SC-07 red can motor, and added a P.M.#1065 gold mag to the underside just ahead of the rear axle. I left the stock mag in place and fitted Indy-Grip tires. As mentioned above glue all three bushings down and lube all of them. Don't forget to lube the front wheels. About a half-turn out works on the body-screw looseness(let it rattle around a bit). This car runs well on the cheapo wall-wart power supplies on Sport track. Where anything below 4.5 sec. is good on our track, this car pulled a 3.979!!

Good luck and keep the power on!

 

[13davek]

Don't tighten the body up or glue it down so it doesn't rattle. Allowing the body to rattle increases lap times and isolates vibrations, making the car stick better.

Two examples:

Slot It 956. Lap times increased by 2-3/10th's of a second by unscrewing the motor pod slightly to allow the pod to rattle.

GB Chevron. Lap times increased by 2-3/10th's of a second by sanding around motor pod to allow it to rattle and cutting excess flash away from motor pod.

Think of the fastest slot cars..those awful womp cars and Parma nasties. They scream around the track, one of the things that makes them fast is rattling parts on the chassis. The TSRF chassis has flexy bits.

Don't glue anything down...let it free

DK

 

[darainbow]

I dont think you have a chance with that car considering tires can be changed.

I predict a 908/3 or 512S with slicks and magnet will win.

 

[13davek]

So I now have a 365GTB Ferrari. And I'm faced with trying to get this car to even move. The chassis is warped across the interior which sticks down too far. I sanded the interior down so the chassis isn't quite that bad now. But the drive shaft pops out of the bearing holder. Also the wheels are out of round. So I'm left with several choices. I'd like to replace the wheels and tires. BWA makes nice wheels/inserts and Racer makes nice wheels/inserts too. But then what tires. Ortmann's are the tires of choice around these parts. So I've been thinking about replacing them with Ortmann's for Monogram Wide Rears. But that means I can't use the Racer wheels.

Does anyone have experience with Racer wheels? What tires fit those wheels? I'm guessing Slot It tires do.

DK

 

[pab]

I have tested several tires and wheels and found out that slot-it F1 hubs
and Ortmann F1 to ninco is the best choice to use for the Daytona.
/anders