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· Registered
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been looking at the range of Fly Ford Capris on the Electric Dreams site and find the variety of liveries very exciting. I'm seeing however, a vast range of prices , from under US $60.00 to over $ 100.00. I understand that Fly makes different (mechanically, not livery) versions of the Capri. Can anyone tell me what the differences in these Capris are ? Does Fly make components to upgrade these cars if desired ?
Steve
 

· Jim Moyes
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The high detail, real liveried cars have a front mounted motor to follow the design of the real car. Then Fly produced some plain liveried "Racer" cars with a mid-mounted inline motor and "performance" parts. I think it is possible to put a liveried shell on a "Racer" chassis as long as you swap the interior trays.
 

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I'm a big Fan of the Fly Racing Series, especially the Capri as they are easy to upgrade


As Mr M states the Racing Version of the Capri uses an inline Motor setup.

I've swapped the motor to a NSR 21k inline and pinnion, and slot-it crown and swapped the rear tyres to NSR's

However there is an issue with all these early chassis, the motor will pop out of the mount


there is a guide posted on the forum how to overcome this.

Car runs great but I like many others I'm waiting for the New Capri from Racer....

Dodge
 

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Ey Up Guys,

You just wont believe how quick a fly "racer" Capri is when retro-fitted with a Mr Slot sidewinder motor pod and Scale-Auto Slimline Black motor !!??.

My favourite conversion so far !!.

vbr Chris A.
 

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1,497 Posts
QUOTE (steveaca @ 20 Apr 2012, 16:57) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks for all the info guys. Will standard Fly axle accept Slot.it parts (crown gear, rims) ?

Nope. They used 2.48mm axles - the same as Ninco.

For the "Racing" series, Mr.M is correct, the raw bodies are the same as a front engined "standard" car, but you need to swap over interiors.
I checked a Jagermeister livery over one of my "Racing" chassis.
If you need to upgrade or repair the "Racing" ones anytime, you CAN do a brutal job with a 2.5mm drill to ream out a Slot.it crown gear to fit the FLY Axle, else you can replace the bushes, axle and gears all at once.

We have a class just for these at club, and we also fit the NSR Vanquish hubs with 14mm wide tyres to them. That requires a little shaving of bushes and bosses to get them under the wheel arch. I think I used single sided axle bushes on mine and a wafer of shim between the wheel and the chassis.

Even with the rather pedestrian version of the EVO long can motor which is only about 17.5K at 12volts, same as the "rally" cars and the old trucks, the grip and handling are so good they will do very good lap times. We run them with just the standard motor, and we standardised on a slot.it yellow 28t crown gear as replacement, because the Fly ones are not very durable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Slotcrazy,
Is the yellow 28t crown gear you mention reamed out to fit on standard axle )as you mentioned earlier on) ? Does the standard Capri come with a Mabuchi-type front mounted can motor and the racing version an Evo long-can motor ? In the front-emgined version, how difficult is it to change the motor, as there must be some type of linkage (drive shaft, spring etc.) to take the power from the motor to the rear wheels ?
 

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QUOTE (steveaca @ 24 Apr 2012, 17:30) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Slotcrazy,
Is the yellow 28t crown gear you mention reamed out to fit on standard axle )as you mentioned earlier on)
Yes, that's what many have done in club. We also ream out NSR Vanquish hubs - just saves replacing axle and bushes. - but you could just replace the whole shebang, with Slot.it axles and bushes, then the only reaming would be a minor nit for the NSR 2.37mm axle - which I would ream by soimply fitting a slot.it axle to a power tool and hold it against the hub till it spins through . . . a technique to be mastered so it is not overdone


QUOTE (steveaca @ 24 Apr 2012, 17:30) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>? Does the standard Capri come with a Mabuchi-type front mounted can motor and the racing version an Evo long-can motor ?

Exactly. Both inline, tbut the racing version is mid/rear mount, so no annoying driveshaft.

QUOTE (steveaca @ 24 Apr 2012, 17:30) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>In the front-emgined version, how difficult is it to change the motor, as there must be some type of linkage (drive shaft, spring etc.) to take the power from the motor to the rear wheels ?

Yes, there is a spring and driveshaft, which are always a bt inefficeint for power transfer, and not very "accurate", and it is a bit tricky to get the old motor off the spring without stretching it.
I wont explain it, involves screwdrivers, plates of metal, and a lot of male working parts.....
 

· Peter Christie
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1,817 Posts
Fly Racing Capri
If you find one
be carefull not to step in the 'rocking horse s**t it lying next too it!!!!
!

.....good luck, long sold out & discontinued
 

· Nobby Berkshire
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1,987 Posts
They did some great liveries. Fly Capri cars vary in price because once their cars go out of production retailers know they can charge silly prices because a handful of people will be willing to pay for them as collector items.

I've only ever bought 2 cars in Fly 'racer' version and both were incredibly dissappointing with both running slower than ordinary Fly versions. If you are going to buy a 'racer' version and then spend a fortune changing the motor and axles and so on, then you may as well buy a cheaper non-racer version and do the same. Otherwise you could be wasting your $$$ for no reason at all.

Fly spares are in short supply as the company froze manufacture when the global recession took hold, but some can still be found. Look at Gaugemaster who are the UK distributors. They have limited supply and can order out-of-stok items in.

SlotIt replacements will fit, but you'll have to upgrade the axles as well as hubs and tyres and axlegear and get some 3/32 replacement bearings. So add on 25% of the car once again to pick this all up.

One final thing to keep in mind is that because these cars are quite old it is often the case than Fly tyres either dry up or go soft and gooey after 3 or 4 years, so any car you are likely to buy could have rubbish tyres by now.
 
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