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hy, no difference to any plastic chassis. flatten chassis ect. there,s a good step by step article on the subject, i think its on chris frosts site. maybe someone could chip in here with a good article and links. it was covered on the forum a while back, so do a search or google it. john
 

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when fly made their cars they made them to sit on shelves.
Any money they invested was in the body finish and not in the mechanics.
The chassis are floppy the motors are slow the gears are low quality etc etc .......
Take the whole car apart and replace any mechanical / moving part you can with parts made by slot it/NSR.
The only part you cant replace is the chassis so simply stiffen the chassis with plasticard tubes
to remove its massive flex
 

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Mark R-E
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Depends on the model as some had Fly Racing chassis.

Chassis stiffening for a wood track is a good idea.

Many other aftermarket options from sloting+, mbslot, avantslot, scaleauto, etc
 

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I found this article to be helpful in sorting out some of my Fly's:

I also tend to replace the rear tyres with a good set of urethane rears (Paul Gage Tires are my favourite) which makes a huge difference. Often with the above methods I can get my Fly classics to run well non-mag on MDF.

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We realise that there are other slotcar forums, but we see some as competition so we do not allow linking
 

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QUOTE (Pete-slot @ 5 Sep 2012, 00:29) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>when fly made their cars they made them to sit on shelves.
Any money they invested was in the body finish and not in the mechanics.
The chassis are floppy the motors are slow the gears are low quality etc etc .......
Take the whole car apart and replace any mechanical / moving part you can with parts made by slot it/NSR.
The only part you cant replace is the chassis so simply stiffen the chassis with plasticard tubes
to remove its massive flex
My experience has been very, very different. I have found a great number of Fly cars (non-Racing models) that reward a little bit of TLC greatly. Cars like their GT40, Porsches (906, 908, 917), Chevrons, BMW M1, Ferrari F40, Lola Mk III etc etc all can be made to run very sweetly indeed without a great deal of effort.

Some "quick and dirty" things to look out for:

* The independent front wheels can be a bit of a problem. Either tightening them up, adding a metal tubing bushing in the holder or replacing the stub axles with a full axle works wonders.
* Some of the full front axle models have excessive up-down play. Glue a piece of styrene under the axle to limit movement.
* Flatten and spread the braids.
* Make sure the guide runs at a decent depth in the slot. This may require a small shim above the guide to lower it a touch.
* Replace tyres with whatever works on your track. Glue and true as required.
* Check for sideways play in the rear axle. If there is excessive movement put a small spacer in the appropriate spot.
* Trim the chassis and body mount screw holes for a bit of body float.
* Check pinion. This is a known area of weakness of Flys: sometimes the pinions can be cracked. Replace with brass if required.
* Lubricate bushings properly.

With their relatively low motor power I have not found chassis flex to be an issue (unlike Ninco for instance).

None of this is rocket science. Yes, it does sound like a bit of work but I find even the NSRs and Slot.its of the world require a certain amount of work to get them running well. And no: even with this work they probably still would not beat a performance brand car. But they can run very, very well indeed.

Racing models require even less work and mine are a match for my Slot.its but not quite NSRs.

BTW: all of my comments apply to wood, no magnet racing. I have a whole bunch of them that are a pure joy to race.
 

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Nobby Berkshire
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QUOTE when fly made their cars they made them to sit on shelves

So how come I have two stock Vipers from 6 years ago that beat every stock Slot It model I've bought in the last 6 years? And that's with the much-detested 'wobbly' front wheel stub axles wobbling around like crazy.

As with any model, it depends on the exact car you are going to tune.
 

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QUOTE (Ronan @ 5 Sep 2012, 17:03) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I found this article to be helpful in sorting out some of my Fly's:

I also tend to replace the rear tyres with a good set of urethane rears (Paul Gage Tires are my favourite) which makes a huge difference. Often with the above methods I can get my Fly classics to run well non-mag on MDF.

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We realise that there are other slotcar forums, but we see some as competition so we do not allow linking

Right.... the same article is already on slotforum, in the "Slap my slotcar" section. I presume therefore this link is ok? (To the same article but on slotforum):

http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?...mp;page=SLAP-04

As you can see I'm a slotforum plus member and as far as I'm aware the other forum (which I rarely look at as it happens) is non-commercial? From my point of view I'm just trying to point a fellow enthusiast towards something I found helpful in the past.
 

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QUOTE (bleep @ 5 Sep 2012, 20:31) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Ronan,
Yes that link is acceptable, the forum has evolved over the years, Harry was a contributor on here, once upon-a-time.
I fully appreciate and respect the reasoning behind your posting the link.

No problem, I did not realise there was a problem with links of that sort.

Good "how to" articles I feel are hard to come by so when I find them I like to share them. Ideally if I had a bit more time (procrastination I know!) I'd like to write a few of my own, mainly on my own experience of sorting out my cars for proxies, wood track racing and so on. Must try to find the time I guess!
 

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QUOTE (Screwneck @ 6 Sep 2012, 08:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>So how come I have two stock Vipers from 6 years ago that beat every stock Slot It model I've bought in the last 6 years? And that's with the much-detested 'wobbly' front wheel stub axles wobbling around like crazy.

it is like saying your Toyota Rav4 blows away an M5 - - give it rough enough ground, and tight enough turning circle, anything is possible.

I presume you have strong magnetic attraction, a track suited to those Vipers, and little grip on your slot.it car tyres.
 

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QUOTE (Pete-slot @ 5 Sep 2012, 19:29) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>when fly made their cars they made them to sit on shelves.
Any money they invested was in the body finish and not in the mechanics.
The chassis are floppy the motors are slow the gears are low quality etc etc .......
Take the whole car apart and replace any mechanical / moving part you can with parts made by slot it/NSR.
The only part you cant replace is the chassis so simply stiffen the chassis with plasticard tubes
to remove its massive flex

Do not despair Mr. V

While you may never get them to run as quick as the top end hobby brands, each Fly model can be tuned quite acceptably to run with or without magnets.
I have upgraded some with after-market parts, but generally in our club these days, we can get them to run smooth and predictably with just some time and a few tricks.
Actual setup time is about one hour per car - with some waiting for glues to set.
Having a trye truer which can true wheels on the axle is a big plus. - Easier than a steady hand.

Once set up properly, they really are very fun cars to drive, and our guys often ask to run a house class of them owned by myself and other guy in our club - We each have LOTS of these . . . . it's an addiction.
Here is a video I made for somone else, as a compaprision of various '65 - '80 racing class sports cars we run. The first two cars are a Fly Chevron B19 and a Fly Porsche 908/3. Both run about 6.1 second laps on my 63 foot wood circuit (non-magnet).
That is around 2/10ths slower than a blueprinted, tuned Slot.it Ferrari 312PB They retain all stock parts apart from the tyres, which are NSR Ultra-grips for Fly Classic hub.
The Chevron has also had the floppy stub axle replaced with a solid axle onto the original hubs.

http://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/iS9DIH8at0Y?rel=0
Another good guide which I used when I was startting out, is by Beejay7, well known to many here
http://www.freewebs.com/atadd/upgradingflyclassics.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Some interesting reading there guys.
Thanks to everyone who has responded to my request.
 

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In my experience stock slot.it tyres up until a few years ago were hopeless in terms of grip. I have a black Audi R8C (one of the first slot.it's I bought) which I thought was useless, it fishtailed so much (on my non-mag wood track) when trying to accelerate that it actually snapped it's guide. I began to wonder what all the fuss was about concerning these so called excellent slot.it cars that I read on forums such as SF. Then I got a set of aftermarket urethane tyres and the difference was incredible, smooth, super grippy, and massively quicker lap times. Since then I've been a big fan of slot.it, as long as I change the rear tyres!

The more recent releases (since the Chaparrals I think?) have much better standard tyres which grip pretty well, but I still put on some urethanes to keep them consistent with the rest of my slot.it's
 

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If the Fly car is a S/W and uses the motor pod with the screw at the back and the tab that fits in a chassis slot in the front, you can replace the rear screw with a longer Slot it suspension screw and use a spring. You can create a suspension in that way and the car becomes much smoother on rough plastic tracks (ie Ninco). You may need to do a bit of filing to allow the pod to move smoothly, but it can be done and it may help.
I have a 512S and a Beta setup this way and they are fast machines!
 
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