[scudbong]

When Fly Classics first came out I bought a fair few of them and always raced them with the magnets on my home track. I'm now on a mission to set them up for non mag racing on Colchester's Carrera track.

I've already got one car running well (Porsche 908) by doing the usual things but using all the original parts except for a front axle rather than the stub axles, ortmann tyres on the rear and Slot it Ferrari 312 rear tyres on the front. I plan to upgrade to a Slot it rear axle on a few of them but can't decide what wheels to use. Can anyone recommend what Slot it ones will look most accurate please?

A lot of the cars tyres have gone rock hard and oily and need replacing. Obviously when I'm changing to Slot it rear wheels as above I can buy some tyres to suit those wheels but as I will be using the original front wheels can anyone recommend a decent low grip front tyre for them? To add to this I am currently working on a Ferrari 512 and have put a solid front axle in but every tyre I have tried so far won't touch the track, so I need something with a high enough profile. In the meantime I will try the tyres on the front of my Porsche 908 (as above) and see if they will do the job but any other idea's welcome.

Thanks,

Pete

 

[justDave]

Hi Pete,

I use the NSR Classic No-Friction fronts on a lot of my cars - the Ford MkIV ones are 20x8.5, and the Porsche 917 ones are 18x10.

David

 

[scudbong]

Thanks Dave hadn't seen those, I was going to try the NSR replacement for the plastic wheels on some of my other Fly classics so I'll order some of these too. I'll get the ruler out tonight and see which ones will be more suitable.

Thanks again,

Pete

 

[slotmadmac]

My set up for non magnet Fly Classics for a wood track is:
:: Replace the back axle and front stubs with with slot it axles ( usually 48mm)
:: Stock bushes for the rear axle.
:: Keep the original pinion and use a 19mm Slot it SIGS1936 Lightweight spur gear (19mm diameter, 36t.)
:: Keep the original wheels and front tyres. NSR Classic ultragrips on the back. Glued and trued all round with the fronts ground down to get maximum guide depth.
:: Pod glued to chassis.
:: Motor glued in.
:: Chassis perimeter shaved to allow body rock.
:: Any points of chassis contact with the interior base dremmelled off (where possible) to promote body rock.
:: Chassis to body screw holes widened and thinner screws used to promote body rock.
:: Don't use the rear chassis screw.
:: Try and avoid added weight - most of the models don't need it.

Mac

 

[Crusader]

Hi Pete,

I've also got a number of Fly Classics, all were purchased new except the Ferrari 512S which had had some use, I've done the
usual front axle swap on several cars, on my 512S I found the same problem you're talking about, I checked a few of my other
Fly Classics and discovered that the guide on the Ferrari had a small step on it which my others didn't have, just doing a swap
much improved matters, check this out.

If this is the problem and you don't have a spare guide try a Slot-it guide SICH 26.

Robert.

 

[Coides]

Hi Pete

I recently bought a 512S from Alan Tadd who had done pretty much what you wanted - slot it spur gear, rigid front axle, BWA wheels, Ortmann tyres. Actually, I'd prefer the original spec so if you like we could trade chassis? You can see a shot of another 512S he did the same way here

Andy

 

[scudbong]

Mac, thanks for that excellent advice, i've done 75% of the things you have said but will try some of the things I haven't.

Robert, I'm pleased it's not just me that had the trouble with the Ferrari front tyres, I'll try another guide, thanks for the tip.

Andy, I'll pm you now.

I've ordered some parts, mainly tyres which should help me with my setups.

Thanks again for the help,

Pete

 

[Screwneck]

NSR do Fly Classic rear tyres. Any standard SlotIt or NSR or Ninco (front tyre only) tyres fit the fronts as they are standard sized European dimensions.