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Mr. Olufsen
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1,212 Posts
I'm fond of magless racing, and I am compulsive about collecting Fly Alfa Romeo 105 series cars and TZ2s. Those two interest do not go well together because Fly front mounted engine slot cars tend to end up in all the wrong places without magnets.

I've been planning this modification for a year now; when I received my first Alfa Romeo TZ2 I gave it a look and came up with an idea, bought the parts needed, but then I got sidetracked. First, I tried to do it the simple way as outlined by e.g. by Brent Carlsson here. It did prevent the wheels from rubbing against the wheel well, but still the car ran less than satisfactorily, and like a clog on rails without the magnet. Then I tried metal stub axles, then changed the sleeves again almost ruining the mounts. Finally, I reverted to the original idea of making fixed 3/32 axles and letting the wheels spin freely. It works beautifully, no slop, no noise, no nonsense even without a magnet.

The parts used for the TZ2s are from Slot.it: A PA39 independent front axle kit, a pair of PA17 plastic hubs, and PA41 Alfa Romeo T33/3 wheel inserts. You may want to experiment with tyre sizes, I've opted for PT24 19x10 tyres, I believe they look the part more than the slightly oversized original ones. You will be needing a 0.25mm spacing tool e.g. from the PA47 spacer set, and a short piece of tubing (plastic, brass) that will fit on a 3/32'' axle. Here's the method:

(1) Prepare the wheels by drilling out the 3/32'' centre with a metrical 2.5mm drill. This will allow the wheel to spin on the axle with almost no vertical play.
(2) Fix one (1) end-stopper eyelet to the independent axle. If it is of the press-fit type use a micro screwdriver or allen key a mandrel before gently hammering it into the hollow axle.
(3) Put the wheel on the axle and check that it rotates freely. Slide the axle w/wheel into one of the axle mounts, and let the axle pass through the next one.
(4) Using the spacing tool to secure play btw. the wheel and the axle mount, mark where the axle will be glued into the axle mount. Remove the axle, and with a needle file, light grate the axle lengthwise where it will be fixed in the axle mount. Do not grate where the wheel will be turning on the axle.
(5) Slide the axle w/wheel into the axle mounts again until the wheel + the grated part + approx 5mm is protruding from the mount. Apply 2 component epoxy cement to the axle, and push it into place. Be neat and with cotton swabs and tissue paper remove all excess glue gradually while pushing the axle into place. No glue under the wheel!. Fit the spacing tool to the axle to ensure sufficient play before pushing the wheel and axle firmply into place. Finish by applying a drop of cement around the axle where it exits the inside of the axle mount. Use a strong epoxy intended for metals, not fast 1 or 5 minute epoxy.
(6) When the glue has set after 10 or 15 minutes, remove the spacing tool and let the glue cure completely (24hs or whatever the insert says).
(7) With a Dremel or similar tool cut the axle leaving at least 1.5cm on the inside of the axle mount. The peiece of axle left over the motor mount will serve as a guide to make sure that the two independent fixed axles will stay true.
(8) Cut the remaining piece of axle to length leaving a small gap (5mm) btw. it and the already mounted piece of axle when it is slid through the opposing axle mount.
(9) Fix the small piece of tubing to the end of the axle piece that has been glued into the car already.
(10) Repeat steps nos. 3 through 6 for the second axle piece. Let the inside end slide into the small piece of tubing. This will keep it aligned with the opposite axle end until the epoxy has cured.
(11) When the cement is completely cured, cut the axles as close to the chassis as possible, and file the axle ends until the motor will fit snugly into the motor mount again.

Here's the end result:


(Note: The deformed screw post is the result of a small soldering accident).

...and please give this a look, no more rubbing against the wheel well:


And why bother? Well this way it will run beautifully magless without ruining the unique handling that comes with a front mounted engine. And it's not to much trouble apart from the waiting time while the cement is curing.

/Christian
 

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Nobby Berkshire
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2,015 Posts
This seems like a lot of work


Simply cutting out any plastic stub axle excess and refitting the wheel with a 0.25mm washer between the hub and the chassis anchor does the trick in about 5 minutes. And if you have any tyre rubbing on the bodyshell, just fit smaller tyres.
 

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Mr. Olufsen
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1,212 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Far too time consuming; just run the car with no front wheels


Jokes aside, I tried the simple way, which in my opinion didn't work at anything but cumbersomely slow speeds. Too much slop


Please remember, it's my hobby, so it couldn't possibly involve too much work
 

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Registered
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3,646 Posts
screwnecks got the right fix a plastic washer between wheel and chassis and glue the hub on press together make sure the wheel turns freel,y and its done.
 

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Mr. Olufsen
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1,212 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There is a ten minute method, using the same spare parts + two screws HERE. Sorry for bumping an old thread, I just want to save other people from this waste of time and effort
 
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