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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased my first Fly Classic and need some advice. I have the Lola T70 C39. I would like to make this a smooth running car. Quickness is important, but the handling is what I wish to improve first. I would like to do this and keep it as close to box stock as possible.
It will be running on a hard, smooth plastic surface with stainless rails. Power supply will be 12 volt and I currently use Parma 35 ohm controllers. All suggestions appreciated.
THANKS
 

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You could start by gluing down the bushings on the rear axle-if my mind serves me well this car is a sidewinder? If you wanted high improvements in performance you might want to get a new Slot It rear axle system first. This is just a small insight into the improvements, I dont have one of these cars but many other people will be able to help you.

QUOTE (c5r @ 24 Oct 2004, 17:18)I just purchased my first Fly Classic and need some advice. I have the Lola T70 C39. I would like to make this a smooth running car. Quickness is important, but the handling is what I wish to improve first. I would like to do this and keep it as close to box stock as possible.
It will be running on a hard, smooth plastic surface with stainless rails. Power supply will be 12 volt and I currently use Parma 35 ohm controllers. All suggestions appreciated.
THANKS
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
 

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spacers on the rear axle to remove axle slop, and either spacers or just push the wheels more firmly onto the stubs so they are not so wobbly.

I prefer to replace the guide with the fly racing guide, or weight / button mag at the front to keep the car in the slot a bit better.
 

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which manufacturer is the track from? scalex/carrera/whatever?
how magnetic are the stainless rails?
if the magnet will be of no use then the car can use lots o' help. stock it will be near hopeless unless everyone else runs the same way. get aluminum wheels. the stock wheels are likely so far from true as to be useless. the stock tires aren't great but are workable with good wheels. there are several manufacturers of silcone tires that are much better than the stock tires espescially in a no magnet situation. rear axle/bearings/spur gear are probably ok. but if you decide to use aluminum wheels remember they need to fit your axle. sometimes it makes more sense to get all the parts at once as you can make sure they will work together.

weighting the car for a non magnetic track is largely a matter of testing and personal preference. suggest starting with just enough, mounted behind the guide, to keep the guide in the slot. then add weight farther back, keep records of where you put weight and where you've removed weight, until you find the combination that is both fast and easy to drive.

all seems like a lot but if the track rails are in fact magnetic then it's much easier. the magnet in these cars can, and will, move up and down just enough to give inconsistent handling. take the magnet out of its little pod. cut circles of tape/paper/whatever the same size as the magnet. i use tape 'cause it sticks to the magnet. use the circles to shim the magnet down into the small recess in the chassis where the magnet will set. not too much or it bows the chassis which will also cause odd handling. shimming the rear axle makes a huge difference. after that trueing of the rear tires should give the biggest improvement.
 

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Peter Farrell
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Prof
On Scalex Sport track, staight out of the box, my T70 doesn't live with a Scaley GT40, but then nor do any of the Fly 512 Ferrari's!!
Alfetta
Ps I can just imagine the wrath building up in certain breasts at this heresy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks to all that replied and offered tips. Being new to the Slot Car world I have a lot to learn and it is nice when you have an idea where to start. Prof Fate you are correct, the car arrived about ten minutes ago and I still haven't given it a test run. I just thought I would ask in advance since almost everything I read about the Classics is, they need HELP.
Thanks again all.
 

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Alan Tadd
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C5r

All the Fly Classics are fine cars, and really require little work to make them fun to use.

All the above comments are very relevant and will make your car very fast and competitive with other makes. What you have to ask yourself is what you want to use the car for?.

If you are a Club Racer they will require a fair amount of work to make them competitive. If you are a Home Racer then all you need to do do is remove the magnet ,adjust the front stub axles to remove slop, fit spacers on the rear axle to again remove slop, and glue in the motor together with the rear bearings and then just run them. I don't add weight , and certainly find no need to fit expensive Slot.it Components, and I certainly wouldn't upgrade the motor.

The choice is yours.............

Regards

Alan
 

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I would just re-iterate everything above:

Usual glue n true. Spacers on the rear axle, remove slop from the front stub axles.

The only other thing that you may want to check for on Fly classics is body rub on the rear tyres. Seems to vary from model to model and is usually easily sorted by a quick file/trim.
 

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Nobby Berkshire
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Solid axle at front. Add 5 gram of weight behind axle or glue a Scalex Sport dot magnet inside chassis behind axle. Add Fly brass rear axle bearings (if you have a model with plastic bearings and fit a SlotIt 10t SW pinion (SlotIt does not engage well if you retain the wobbly bigger-hole plastic bearings and axle gear will be damaged).

Goes like stink with loads of added acceleration and brakes. Keep current gear set up if you want less control and more speed. Add bigger magnet to front if you want more stick-down and less nippyness.
 

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John Roche
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You can also trim a fraction off the chassis all round and loosen the screws a turn. This will allow the body to rock as a form of "suspension". Put some tape over the screw holes in case they work loose.



John
 

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In addition to all the good advice already given, I found I could drop the body by a significant mm or so by removing a lot of the 'invisible' engine/spare wheel/suspension detail and filing away a bit of the cockpit underside. Shave down ALL the body mount posts and reassemble with loose screws and the whole mobile looks better with a lower stance on the track, and handles much better too. Out of the box it's a bit too 'tail-up' for my liking, with a lot of space between the rear tyres and the body.
I don't miss what I can't see, and it's all gone to good use in the spares box! The rear tyres are well within the body and I havn't had any tyre rubbing problems.
Never leave anything alone, I say!
By the way, I like the Fly Penske Blue- how does it compare with the new ProtoSlot T70... other thread!
 

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Ah, Lola...

I love this car! Great tips from all.

Nothing much new to add - spacers (if nec.), mag out, weight (1/4 oz) upfront, check front stubs, check to ensure guide is free and wires not restricted by weight, drop of light oil on rear brushings, sand rear tyres lightly under power, return body and run.

Make sure you get the transmission bit back under the screw properly on re-assembly or it can easily work loose and maybe dissapear!





Also note, the rear winglets can chip on a "severe" roll over or crash. Note the curved off wing tips on the red car in pic two, a little post crash surgery (carve to round with exacto knife and sand) to repair damage and return 'symmetry' to the beast!

Best, Ken R
 
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