Just order a set of aluminium wheels and tires this is the best,and you will not have any problems with it again. I know it's more expensive but it will make for a smooth fast car with the minimum of tuning!
John.
John.
Fly Porsche 908 Flunder Rear Wheel Hub cracked
Hi all, just picked up a new Fly Porsche and out of the box ran a few laps and then removed magnet and updated the front axles to two independent a 1/8" brass tubes and cut the motor shaft back and did basic mods and found the axle needed some shims to remove excessive play. One wheel came off easily which made me wonder and the opposite wheel did not come loose so I cannot get a shim in between the gear and the bushing. BUT the other wheel hub has a crack and I know about the 1/4" evergreen fix for this but the axle seems to have rounded out the wheel where it just spins loosely. The only fix I can think of is CA Glue or just replace the whole axle assembly. Before I go out and order the axle assembly, any other ideas to get the wheel hub to reduce the diameter of the hub besides CA Glue?
Thanks
Thanks
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
CA glue or epoxy is the only option but you may struggle to get the wheel to run true.
Plastic or brass tube on the outside as well.
Plastic or brass tube on the outside as well.
I also read about adding a small drilled hole in the wheel to allow air and excess CA to glue out. Any idea what size drill bit to use? The axles are 3/32” so I would think we are talking 1/32” or 1/64”?
Use a wire sized drill, the hole doesn't need to be big. I use 0.050" or so.
Sleeve the hub with evergreen or brass first.
Then put a small drop of CYA inside the hub, and rotate the wheel as you push it on to try and keep it as true as possible.
Then once everything is dry true the wheels using a blade or file/sandpaper.
And as @rastas has said, get a set of aluminum insert rear wheels because eventually it will crack again depending on how hard and how often you run it. At least you can turn the original wheels down for inserts at that point and save the look.
Sleeve the hub with evergreen or brass first.
Then put a small drop of CYA inside the hub, and rotate the wheel as you push it on to try and keep it as true as possible.
Then once everything is dry true the wheels using a blade or file/sandpaper.
And as @rastas has said, get a set of aluminum insert rear wheels because eventually it will crack again depending on how hard and how often you run it. At least you can turn the original wheels down for inserts at that point and save the look.
Thanks Chappy
Where do you put that small hole? Is it straight through Wheel to the outside or perpendicular to the hub?
Where do you put that small hole? Is it straight through Wheel to the outside or perpendicular to the hub?
Usually straight through, so the adhesive covers the most surface area. It also helps to roughen the axle a bit so the glue can bite.
got it, right now I have Loctite Gel CA. Will see what else is around in stores today
Loctite Gel CA is good as it gives a bit more time to get things right before it bites. Also if you glue the hub on with the tyres still in place, you can roll the axle backwards and forwards with very gentle pressure on the axle, and that help keeps the wheel lined up straight and true as the glue goes off.
It's only to let air out so the smallest you got.I also read about adding a small drilled hole in the wheel to allow air and excess CA to glue out. Any idea what size drill bit to use? The axles are 3/32” so I would think we are talking 1/32” or 1/64”?
Any superglue + bicarb powder will do the job.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
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