Just to let people know there is an interesting new review on the Fly throttle here:
Fly Controller Review
cheers
Fly Controller Review
cheers
Fly Pro Controller
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432 Posts
i like the look of that
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is it time to swap in the parma controller
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is it time to swap in the parma controller
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156 Posts
Great review Dave !
have you become Fly's top salesman??
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Might have to invest in a couple of them !!!
have you become Fly's top salesman??
Might have to invest in a couple of them !!!
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3,739 Posts
I use one (bought the fly contoller car combo and sold the car via ebay) and it is extremely comfortable and the adjustable trigger tension spring is excellent. Polairty reverse is essential for me as my club and sport home track run on diff polarities. Braking adjustability is OK - not huge variation but on max brake the car goes backward from a standing start (much merriement was had). Trigger is superb and extremely comfortable and the controller is solid in your palm.
Issues - the trigger works itself loose and I found that after 2 races I had a floppy trigger that ensured intermitent resistor contact. I put some good strong fibre tabe on either side of the pivot so it can't work loose. The brake contact area is big and means you need to depress the trigger quite a way unitl it contacts the actual resistor - again 5 layers of fibre tape so the wiper only has a little way to go before hitting the resistor helps.
Lastly - I'm a lefty and I found that even with the trigger pin fixed then under extreme tension and me putting too much sideways pressure on the trigger it lifted the wiper from the resistor barrel - what a bugger. Fixed by a bit of bending to wiper.
Oh yeah you need an adaptor for the plugs (3 banana plugs) or if you have a bit of knowledge you can attach the relevant end you want.
I bought the adaptor so I can use it at home (sport) and club (3 pin electrical).
For home I just use the excellent Prof Motor controller (basic one) and for club I use the fly but if PM could have a trigger as good as the fly I would invest in a top end PM controller for use in any occassion.
Matt
Issues - the trigger works itself loose and I found that after 2 races I had a floppy trigger that ensured intermitent resistor contact. I put some good strong fibre tabe on either side of the pivot so it can't work loose. The brake contact area is big and means you need to depress the trigger quite a way unitl it contacts the actual resistor - again 5 layers of fibre tape so the wiper only has a little way to go before hitting the resistor helps.
Lastly - I'm a lefty and I found that even with the trigger pin fixed then under extreme tension and me putting too much sideways pressure on the trigger it lifted the wiper from the resistor barrel - what a bugger. Fixed by a bit of bending to wiper.
Oh yeah you need an adaptor for the plugs (3 banana plugs) or if you have a bit of knowledge you can attach the relevant end you want.
I bought the adaptor so I can use it at home (sport) and club (3 pin electrical).
For home I just use the excellent Prof Motor controller (basic one) and for club I use the fly but if PM could have a trigger as good as the fly I would invest in a top end PM controller for use in any occassion.
Matt
Something I have noticed for home users of the Pro Controller to beware of:
If you are stupid and lazy like me, you might also have a tendency to leave the controllers plugged in, cars on the track and power on when you are not using your track for say an hour or a day... DONT do that with the pro-controller! The electronics in the handle gets hot when the brakes are being applied for a long time, and you will return to a toasty hot handle! It has never felt dangerously hot, but this is obviously an even less safe thing to do than my normal (no electricity flowing in theory) practice.
Let me just add now - since this all sounded a bit more sensationalist than intended:
after an hour, the handle feels a little warm, enough to notice, but not to be alarmed about. After many hours, it feels quite warm. I am talking about low riskd and probably shortening the lifetime of some of the components in the controller, not instant burning down of the house. The controller has never got as hot as the transformers, for example.
If you are stupid and lazy like me, you might also have a tendency to leave the controllers plugged in, cars on the track and power on when you are not using your track for say an hour or a day... DONT do that with the pro-controller! The electronics in the handle gets hot when the brakes are being applied for a long time, and you will return to a toasty hot handle! It has never felt dangerously hot, but this is obviously an even less safe thing to do than my normal (no electricity flowing in theory) practice.
Let me just add now - since this all sounded a bit more sensationalist than intended:
after an hour, the handle feels a little warm, enough to notice, but not to be alarmed about. After many hours, it feels quite warm. I am talking about low riskd and probably shortening the lifetime of some of the components in the controller, not instant burning down of the house. The controller has never got as hot as the transformers, for example.
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6,720 Posts
QUOTE The electronics in the handle gets hot when the brakes are being applied for a long time, and you will return to a toasty hot handle! It has never felt dangerously hot, but this is obviously an even less safe thing to do than my normal (no electricity flowing in theory) practice.
Are Fly aware of this?
If not they should be, sounds like a fire risk to me.
Aha - Ok, better explained - thanks!
Are Fly aware of this?
If not they should be, sounds like a fire risk to me.
Aha - Ok, better explained - thanks!
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555 Posts
Thanks for a great review Astro, and thank you for your explanation of hot. I was beginning to get worried!!
In the old days, we had loads of the SCX Pro controllers that actually melted in your hand whilst using them and I didn't want a repeat of that episode!
Well done on a very good review.
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Aaron
In the old days, we had loads of the SCX Pro controllers that actually melted in your hand whilst using them and I didn't want a repeat of that episode!
Well done on a very good review.
Aaron
Nice review Astro!
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Well written and good insight - you should do more!
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I must admit that when Fly first announced a controller, I was pretty skeptical - but it seems that they put the same level of effort into it that they do to detail on their cars. I haven't seen a bad review yet. Nice to see another quality analogue offering!
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I must admit that when Fly first announced a controller, I was pretty skeptical - but it seems that they put the same level of effort into it that they do to detail on their cars. I haven't seen a bad review yet. Nice to see another quality analogue offering!
G
Guest
·Just bought one the 25 ohm to replace my econo' version of the parma contollers, these new Fly controller are so much better, now i've got to get the 45 as well, i much prefer these Fly contollers, they are comfortable to use, with there rubber grip on the trigger, i tried it out tonight at the club, well impressed, shame they don't make a 35 ohm version.
If your used to the cheap and chearful Parma contollers, then you will find these so much better.
If your used to the cheap and chearful Parma contollers, then you will find these so much better.
I have both of the Fly types of controller and liked them very much until the wire wrapped around the resistor started to unbind on both of them.
They do feel great thou in the hand, and the Pro one on a cold night is great as it keeps your hand warm !
They do feel great thou in the hand, and the Pro one on a cold night is great as it keeps your hand warm !
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607 Posts
QUOTE (mtucker666 @ 27 May 2004, 09:55)Issues - the trigger works itself loose and I found that after 2 races I had a floppy trigger that ensured intermitent resistor contact. I put some good strong fibre tabe on either side of the pivot so it can't work loose. The brake contact area is big and means you need to depress the trigger quite a way unitl it contacts the actual resistor - again 5 layers of fibre tape so the wiper only has a little way to go before hitting the resistor helps.
Lastly - I'm a lefty and I found that even with the trigger pin fixed then under extreme tension and me putting too much sideways pressure on the trigger it lifted the wiper from the resistor barrel - what a bugger. Fixed by a bit of bending to wiper.
Matt
I had exactly the same problems. Seems to be like the Fly cars: You have to do some homework just after buying, then it will work.
Another problem was the trigger tension when it was set at lowest: Then, the spring tension was not high enough to get the trigger back to the break area...
Lastly - I'm a lefty and I found that even with the trigger pin fixed then under extreme tension and me putting too much sideways pressure on the trigger it lifted the wiper from the resistor barrel - what a bugger. Fixed by a bit of bending to wiper.
Matt
I had exactly the same problems. Seems to be like the Fly cars: You have to do some homework just after buying, then it will work.
Another problem was the trigger tension when it was set at lowest: Then, the spring tension was not high enough to get the trigger back to the break area...
i have had no problems with mine, box standard.
After about a week, I did put tape either side of the spindle as a precaution, and also adjusted the travel of the trigger. The wiper made good contact tho. and these measures were taken because I like to modify stuff, not due to any bad performance
After about a week, I did put tape either side of the spindle as a precaution, and also adjusted the travel of the trigger. The wiper made good contact tho. and these measures were taken because I like to modify stuff, not due to any bad performance
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209 Posts
What would be the best choice of resistor for a relatively short twisty circuit, say on an 8ft x 4ft board?
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607 Posts
QUOTE (Inside_Info @ 10 Jun 2004, 01:24)What would be the best choice of resistor for a relatively short twisty circuit, say on an 8ft x 4ft board?
Well, this is something that also depends on
- your personal preferences
- the cars / motors you are driving
In my opinion, 25 Ohm are always good to start with. (Personally, I use 15 or 10 Ohm for all my non-magnet cars, so this is somehting you really have to find out yourself.)
Well, this is something that also depends on
- your personal preferences
- the cars / motors you are driving
In my opinion, 25 Ohm are always good to start with. (Personally, I use 15 or 10 Ohm for all my non-magnet cars, so this is somehting you really have to find out yourself.)
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715 Posts
I wonder what kind of stuff needs to stay connected/on in the controller so that it would get hot. Sound scary.
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Someone said they adjusted the brakes so much so that in the strongest position it made the car go in reverse. WHOA!!
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What the heck is THAT all about? What is the principle behind brake adjustment which would make it go backward?
Would it be fair to say that juice is applied in reverse polarity at a user-controlled voltage (w/resistor as an adjuster) to slow the engine faster? If that is the case, does it hurt the motor to supply reverse power while it is going the opposite direction?
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-Maltese
Someone said they adjusted the brakes so much so that in the strongest position it made the car go in reverse. WHOA!!
Would it be fair to say that juice is applied in reverse polarity at a user-controlled voltage (w/resistor as an adjuster) to slow the engine faster? If that is the case, does it hurt the motor to supply reverse power while it is going the opposite direction?
-Maltese
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