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To give you a helping hand in preparing for the Championship I thought it might be an idea to get as many peoples points of view on the Championship cars I have started a separate section for each of the six Championship cars.

Even if your not planning to compete your points are of interest.






Before you all start talking about swapping motors etc, bear in mind this is a box standard Championship no changes to standard spec allowed.
 

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Hold on a sec. I think you must have the wrong car here. Do you mean the original Saleen? Otherwise, how is this non-mag car supposed to compete with the other magnet cars, like the Carrera Enzo, Lister LMP and so on?

Lotus
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Following a race heat last night at Farnham I propose a rule change with regards to this class.

Our Ninco club track has some dips and climbs over the bridge section. Because the cars sit so low to the ground and have a long chassis the rear end scraps along the track on the slightest incline leaving the wheel spinning.

I chopped the rear fins of the rear underside of the chassis to help. I recall someone mentioning this earlier in the year, but a the time I said they should run standard.

Any comments? - more important any tips to help set up on these cars?

Thanks

Gareth
 

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Jim Moyes
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QUOTE (vfr750 @ 14 Oct 2004, 10:00)Hi Gareth,

It's vital that you glue the motor in as it will pop out at every crash even if the rest is standard.



John
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yep! That'll be the blue lane, then!

Bloody jumping out bloody motors..........mutter, mutter!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the help guys.

Adrian is going to have a go at the cars over the next few weeks.

Hot glue the motors and search through a few more chassis to find straight ones.

Gareth
 

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the rear axel gear teeth shear very easy as some of the lads at scale models slot racing found out, on the vanquish, that is a separate class,the teeth are even worse, mine only lasted 2.5 races.
very poor quality, the fly teeth were not alot better..
. also make sure the grub screwws that hold the rear wheels and gear assembly are kept tight, a few came loose causing an early race exit for a few including me again..
 

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As a novice in car prep I was allowed to modify the cars to at least stay together and on the track.
I hot glued the motors & axles in.
Tightened & aligned gears & wheels plus lubed.
Removed the tyres from the rims and turned them inside out to cut of the flash - to at least let the tyres the chance of being round - refitted the tyres the right way round(!) and lightly sanded.
Trimmed off all the rear underbody venturi.
Cut about 1 to 2mm of the rear body mounting post - the chassis just seemed too flexible so trimming the post allowed the underpan to sit against the body to prevent too much rock - then tighten the screw fully.
Trimmed the lower part of the rear wheel arch, in front of the rear wheel to prevent it from rubbing on the track.
These were run at Farnham last week and everybody seemed to like them now!
The only problem we had was one lost a guide wire after an off.
I know that these mods are probably more then should be usual oe even allowed, but before they were just CARP. One had such a badly distorted chassis that I had to bin it. Not good enough for a £40 car.

Turboslot
 
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