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I got this last week and upon the first run, I was really disappointed!



Impressive looking car, graphics are great but I could not get this thing to run 1/2 way decently.

Popped off the body and lubbed here and there, tweaked the magnet just a bit and tightened the 1/2 axle shafts up front to stop the up and down movement. Also had to grind out the front wheel wells as the tires are hitting the body thanks to the lousy 1/2 shaft axles.

Still no good. Off with the body and in looking at the motor...it is the typical motor sits too far forward to put in a solid axle for the front. The little nub and motor mounts are in the way.

Heck with it...I got out the dremel and a cut-off wheel and took out the stub part of the motor and ground it all back just a bit to clear a straight axle. Ran a drill bit through the axle mounts, got a 3/32nds front axle from the Fly GT-40 that is pretty much trash now after the Chassis abortion and mounted it. Put Supertires on the rear and this thing is fast and sticks like glue!

Result? Well, with the body off, it ain't pretty...but with the body on and some serious breakin time...this Vette now goes from slow and deslotting to Fast and Furious! Handling has improved and with that, so has the speed. So much that this beat out the old speed record on my track previsously set by a Scalextric GT-40.

Here's some shots of what I did...





Seriously...with or without the magnet tweaking (only 1 Radio Shack Rare Earth magnet) you need to try this modification...well worth it.
 

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Alan Tadd
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Good solution Brian.

I can't understand Fly's reasoning regarding this matter, and why they continue with what is obviously a significant design fault. (Well I can as to do it properly would cost them money in re-tooling!)

It really shoudn't be necessary to go to these lengths to get a car to run properly.

Perhaps they should look at Scalextric's solution to the stub axle situation, it certainly seems to work for them.

Come on Aaron it's time this problem was sorted out once and for all.

Regards

Alan
 

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DT
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I agree, these great little cars are seriously hampered by their twin front axel system. Why not just move the motor back and fit straight axels. So simple.

Good workaround Brian, I'll be trying that myself. Now where can I get a bunch of Fly Front axels - I need about 10
 

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Why do they have to be Fly? The only axels which won't work are Ninco. Scalextric and Slot.It should work, they are all the same diameter. I guess Scalextric would be too narrow, but Slot.It would definatly work, and you can buy them seperatly!

Lotus
 

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QUOTE (Nuro @ 22 Mar 2004, 17:54)Good workaround Brian, I'll be trying that myself. Now where can I get a bunch of Fly Front axels - I need about 10

Well, if Scaley axles are the right diameter, then just wait until someone destroys the front wishbones on their Scaley Dallara Indy car! The replacement spare is a complete axle, wheels & tyres and wishbone; the wishbone si the only item locating the axle in the car. So, I now have a spare set of Indy front wheels and a Scaley axle


Mark.
 

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Ahh.. The simplicity of basic engineering! I wish I knew more


Mark.

BTW all this has given me something to try with my latest Corvette model - FLY's Spanish Championship ltd.ed. No 12 (car not box!)

Thanks guys.
 

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QUOTE (BEEJAY7 @ 22 Mar 2004, 11:32)Good solution Brian.

I can't understand Fly's reasoning regarding this matter, and why they continue with what is obviously a significant design fault. (Well I can as to do it properly would cost them money in re-tooling!)

It really shoudn't be necessary to go to these lengths to get a car to run properly.

Perhaps they should look at Scalextric's solution to the stub axle situation, it certainly seems to work for them.

Come on Aaron it's time this problem was sorted out once and for all.

Regards

Alan

Having been involved in the manufacturing end of the Diecast Car hobby with GMP, I can appreciate why this type of retooling has not and won't be implemented for current Fly Slot cars. But for future applications it's almost a no brainer.

I am assuming that the placement of the motor so far forward is for sometype of balance factor in the front to rear weight distribution but for the tiny amount this would have to move to achieve a better running and considerably better handling car out of the box is pretty stinking obvious.

This removes the slop but if you still want or need the verticle movement that the 1/2 axles provide, you can elongate the axle mounts vertically just a tad without harming the ride heights. This will allow for the up and down movement and a bit of body roll. If you are worried the body may rub the tires, you can reduce the wheel back lengths (where the axle fits into the wheel) to bring the wheel/tire just a tad closer and tighter to the chassis and away fromt he inside of the wheel well.

This is just proof of what I have been saying will create a better all around application.
 

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Brian,

IMHO the forward placement of the motor is to allow a detailed interior to the car in the main, although the prototype is front engined too as you know. I would suggest that the balance factor for front/rear weight distribution is right out
There's hardly any weight at the rear of the chassis to speak of; the distribution ratio is probably a lot worse than that of a 427 Cobra


Just had a proper look at my C5R in daylight. Not all Corvette chassis are the same.It's motor is even further forward than the Speedvision 'Vette's!! If I were to take a cutting disc to the end of the motor I would not only have to shear the armature bearing clean off, but also take the end of the casing with it
Oh well, back to Jim Brown's suggestion; front tyres off, sand away the lip on the rims until they are cylindrical, fit some rubber tubing over the wheels and trim to length.

Mark.
 

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Am I just contrary?


I got me a Corvette (C5 is it?) and all I did to draw a veil over its annoying deslotting was loosen those stub axles for vertical travel and fit some skinny fronts.

It went like stink from the get-go. Now it goes like stink and doesn't come off unless I'm stupid with the throttle.

Give me stubs every time.

CASFA
(Campaign Against Solid Front Axles)


[Edit]
Oops. Just read Diff's post properly, well I generally pass over the ramblings of pointy heads
, and learn that the chassis is different to mine. Still wouldn't do the solid front thing though.
[/Edit]
 

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Point taken
What u mean pointy head eh? The C5R I have has the stubs on pivots to allow up and down travel, so maybe I'll leave them free and just try it with skinny fronts. Won't harm to try someone else's idea
wankel.

In relation to this thread I decided to investigae my other fornt engined FLY cars. I dived into the wardrobe and came out in a Batman suit....err no....I came out with my Panoz LMP1, Zakspeed Capris and Lister Storms. The Panoz and the Capris' motors are too far forward relative to the stubs to modify (Panoz would accept an axle if I ground away part of the bearing & housing in addition to the shaft).

The Listers however now have solid front axles! Just the shaft needed shortening.

Mark.

Yeah Wankel, you are contrary!
 

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Not all Fly Corvettes are created equally, that's for sure. The C5R has a different chassis than the more street version street C5's.

In order left to right...

C5R chassis from the #14 Red/black Mobile 1, Blue w/white stripe C5 street Corvette unaltered chassis and the Speedvision #98 C5 chassis that I modified



The alteration that I made was to the C5 street vette and cannot apply to the C5R's. I realize that everybody is not going to agree with me but there are those that do. Just like some like to run with magnets for greater speed and handling and others prefer to run lighter without magnets to watch the cars slide...it's a preference but I am not starting a coalition (re: "CASFA") and I also realize that part of that is in jest (while part is not, as well!).

For those that don't like the axle stubs that Fly uses, I have demonstrated an alternative to the stubs
. If you like the stubs...enjoy!


Either way, it's the hobby we all love...enjoy it the best way that it works for you!
 

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Oops. No offence meant, Brian. Just joshing.

Diffy, my Capri goes really well after the loose stubs and skinny tyres at the sharp end approach was applied.

I also found a plastic spacer sitting between the chassis and the mugnut. Removing that assisted her dynamics a tad.

Tonight, I will be mostly trying my Beemer, now run in and sporting droopy stubs and skinnies.
 

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QUOTE (lotus03 @ 23 Mar 2004, 17:38)Can't you just drill a hole through the front of the motor?

Who do you think you are Lotus? Me?


I'll look into getting some skinnies on the Zakspeeds



Mark.
 

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It just goes to show that opinion is divided on whether or not to have stub or solid axles, and you cannot please all the people all the time. However, I will pass your comments on.

Aaron
 

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I sometimes opt for stubs and sometimes I use a complete axel.
What I like is when I can choose between them...

One way to solve this problem is for everyone to write to Slot.It and get them to make replacement metal stub axels. Or maybe even Fly, they are working with metal these days...

So everyone do that and then cars that can't be converted won't be so bad.

Lotus
 

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To me the main problem is the wobblyness of Fly stubbs. Stubbs in principle offer advantages, but the wobblyness counteracts all that. It varies whether I try to take the wobble out or replace with an axle, but as they stand they are no good
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I don't think it is just the stubs though...the stub mountings on the chassis have everything to do with it also. Putting metal stubs on it won't do the job to remove the slop unless they are going to put in a metal race or bearing.

The way it is designed lends itself to failure...that is why I suggested that it needs to be re-engineered.
 
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