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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

I race on a slotfire track at Anglia Slot Racing. The BMW M3 is tail happy. I have a large lump of lead slapped in the middle behind the front axle. Tyres are true and glued. Its running a NSR 21k king engine with 9/28 gearing. Each and every corner it loves to kick out after a few laps, tyres cleaned and taped its a bit better. Tyres------- Slot it P5's which are fine on the track.

Other saloons, Spirit Peugeot 406, the £10 SCX trekstor Merc are in the same tuned condition but behave impeccably.

Do I need to loosen screw mounts off, its a spring type motor pod tightened up. Is the chassis in need of strengthening?

I love the look of the car so want to get it running in a competitive form.

Thanks

Gary
 

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Lee Green
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Slot it p5 on slot fire ???? Your having a laugh right ? Get some slot it f15s ... Problem solved
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
F15s' ....not tried them. P5 s' used by many at ASR..... will have a go with the F15s'.

Always found NSR tyres to be problematic ...no grip whatsoever.

Thanks for the quick reply.
 

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Loosening the the motor pod will definetly help. This may cause the rear wheels to fowl the arches which may be happening already. To stop this happening glue a piece of plastic (I use old CDs) in the rear corner of the car to prevent chassis riding up inside the bodyshell under cornering.
Cheers
brembo
 

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I also run a Fly BMW 320i evo-3 as well as a Fly Alfa Romeo 156 evo-3, I'm the only one in our club that doesn't use a Spirit Peugeot 406 though I did originally buy one as I was told this was the touring car to get but I couldn't get on with it, I bought the BMW not only because it was something different but I also ran a Fly Porsche GT1 98 evo-3 which I prefered to my Slot-it Porsche 956!.

Having tried various set-up's I settled on using the motor from the Spirit Peugeot, Sx3 or Sxx3 I think, Slot-it running gear, axles, magnesium wheels with ZO's on front and P6's on rear (well oiled) I did try Slot-it F15's as some of the quicker drivers are now using, but unlike the a/w 406's the BMW can be tail happy, if you get the tail out to far the car will generally spin but with the F15's they dig in and the car always does a barrel roll, its a touch narrower and taller than the 406 and probably the torque of the motor in an inline set-up doesn't help, (I have an NSR Corvette with the King in and thats got even more torque than the Spirit motor) North Staffs track is 100ft lap length and 25ft main straight on wood, I run 9/24 gearing and have gone
back to using P6's, I run the the car as low as I can but as the wheels then foul the body I put a spacer between the rear mounting post and chassis to just raise the body slightly, also use Fly blue springs and all body screws replaced with NSR/Slot-it
brass screws, ah' also use indi front axle and Fly red guide.

With this set-up it runs about 0.2-3 a lap behind the 406 best laps (BUT NOT WITH ME DRIVING).

Robert.
 

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As you know Gary i converted mine to anglewinder and it transformed it.. But it was banned so do,nt do it.. Unless you want to race it at Norwich..
 

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Nobby Berkshire
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You can adjust your screws as you see fit for your style of racing and the layout of your track. Folks can't give you advice on that, but you can use a screwdriver.

If the tyres are not gripping the track then obviously you need different tyres. If the ones you are used to using don't suit this car, then use other ones. The same tyre does not suit every car as each car is going to behave differently.

And if everyone at your track uses the same tyre, then it's about time somebody dared to be different. Go for it
 

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Lee Green
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Maybe those at your club 'in the know' aren't actually 'in the know' perhaps?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the detailed explanations everyone. Looked at the body catching the tyres in the corner...yes it does, Ordered some F15s' last night so will give that a go.
Regarding the P5s'...Our club champion used them on his Jag in the last GT race of the season and was uncatchable, I know they were P5s as he bought them off me to replace the tyres that had disintegrated. Straight line the BMW is competitivebut all the tips will be tried and tested.
AAWSCC: Overpowered....never...

Screwneck: Thanks for the tip regarding a screwdriver could be where I was going wrong

Flange:Looking forward to trying the F15s, I see the Molesey club run Slot Fire too so take your comments on board.
Crusader and Brembo thanks for the suggestions.
Johnny Nobber are you trying to get all my cars banned??, Would like to see how you wedged the angle winder version in.

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok... tried a few of the suggestions. The body was catching on the tyres so the pod was loosened. The wheels were moved in with a smaller axle being added to bring the wheels in, this was to avoid rubbing inside the wheel arches.. lastly F15s' added. F15s' were a total nightmare to true, I had to use water on the tyre and reduce the voltage for a very slow truing process The result was a very stable car for about 10 laps until the car started to pick up the muck from the track then the tail did start to flip out but nothing like before.. Overall the advice received has resulted in a car that will probably make its debut in the saloon class in the near future, its now fast , drivable and with luck will be competitive if I take care in the final laps.

Thanks everyone.

Gary
 

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Hi Gary,

If I've got my facts correct the guys at our club say you MUST NOT true F15's and also don't overclean them! just run them,
I must admit the pick-up of dirt was a problem just like F1 marbles, again I was told you have to be smooth with driving the
car, the more you slide it the more rubbish you'll pick-up, I'm more than happy with my P6's.

Robert.
 

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Can I just ask which Fly BMW M3 you're discussing here? I've got the E30 and it's proving very difficult to sort.

I've put piles of BluTack in the back and it still seems to be too light.
I've tried the standard tyres, 30A urethanes, 40A urethanes, and Slot.It P6. I've also replaced the front tyres with Slot.It Z0s (that made the biggest improvement). None of these made the car good enough for me and I was on the verge of binning the car. Then I had a flash of inspiration when I remembered the tyres on my SCX Porsche 997 are the same size. Putting them on has helped a lot but, for me, the car is still only barely acceptable. So, until I find something better still, I'm using standard SCX rubber.


IMO (but remember I'm still very much an inexperienced newbie) the car is too light and it's over-powered.
 

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Hi StuBeeDo,

The Fly BMW's mentioned here are the "Racing" Evo 3 versions, these have an adjustable coil sprung motor pod of which two
versions are available, one for the Long can NC2 type motor and the other for the Short can 's' motor, if you've got an E30 M3
it'll be the standard Fly chassis (no comparison).

Robert.
 

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Tel
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I found limiting the pod movement to a mm or so by inserting washers or similar as bump stops, and setting the pod flush with the chassis at rest gave the best results for me ...
 

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Lee Green
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Do not listen to the man that said you must no true te f15s he's wrong , yes you have worked it out you need lubricant and does help to true around 6.5 volts , the f15s are great on slot fire , perhaps cleaning your track would be a good idea... We clean ours at least once a month
. Makes racing better for everyone
 
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