SlotForum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Hi all,

I have decided to do what I've been thinking of doing for more than 2 yrs now, build a routed layout of my own design. I wanted to have features unavailable from plastic tracks like squeezes, turns of varying radius' and straights that weren't , well perfectly straight.
I have about 14 solo hrs into the project and here is where I am at. Lanes routed and 1 coat of oil base primer tinted grey.

I also want to thank Oldslotracer's site and all the forum members who have built some fine layouts of their own, large and small. You all have inspired me to finally go for it.

Comments are certainly welcome and appreciated. I'm sure I'll have some questions for you experinced track builders as I progress.

























RickD
 

·
Kev
Joined
·
2,723 Posts
RickD, That is a cracking start you have made
especially if you have been working solo.
i like the layout, it looks like it will flow well.
i particularly like the use of the expanding foam, to assist with the elevated section.
Not sure if its the photo's are creating an optical illusion, but there seems to be a couple of places that might cause trouble.
The first is in the 2nd pic at the bottom in the middle, there seems to be a jerky dogleg in the centre lane? this may need some attention?
The second is the hairpin that squeezes, (pic 4) all the lanes seem to flow around nicely, and then turn 90deg in a very short length?
They may be nothing, it may be just how i have interpreted the pix?.
Either way i look forward to seeing the track develop.
 

·
Peter Christie
Joined
·
1,835 Posts
I look forward to seeing the track develop, looks good. What are your plans for the edges/runoff.
 

·
Alan Tadd
Joined
·
4,048 Posts
Very nice layout, I do like the dip section. I'm very interested in how this "drives" as I'm thinking of building one of these into my layout, (when I get round to starting it).

Regards

Alan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the kind words.

Zipp - Good pick up on the 2 trouble area, I plan on filling a small area with some plastic wood and re routing a small area to make the middle lane a bit smoother in prob #1. The inside lane in the hairpin has been slightly widened with a razor knife. A carrera car with it's large guide seems to negotiate the inside lane without binding, we'll see how that section works when operational.

JohnP - The main reason I didn't squeeze more layout in the available space was to leave some space for scenery.

Nitro - As for the runoffs, after painting the road areas including the room needed for some tail out drivivng, I plan on doing the some sand traps, guardrails in other areas, some rocky formations etc. I would like the finished layout to look like a road course.

Beejay - I highly recomend , when time allows you, to build your own, if thats been on your mind. I've been putting it off for a while myself, but even at this early stage, I feel a great deal of satisfaction.

RickD
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,133 Posts
I rather like the pics of the slot car slot car tearing past the other slot cars to show them who the can am slot car slot car king is!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
Excellent start there RickD, before youlay your tape, paint your slots the colour of the lanes. Its a bit of a time consuming task but it well worth it when it comes to marshalling.

I too painted my surface in the light grey colour but think the next one will be a darker grey.

Looks of room for scenery which is important and adds to the pleasure of the track.

Just take your time and maintain a high level of detail with the things you do. Once its built, its built for a while and could be tough to change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Phoeno -

Thanks for the kind words, I just visited your site and am very impressed with the quality of your track. I do plan on painting the slots as you suggest.

A few questions....

The copper tape arrived today and if there are any suggestions, tips you or anyone on the board can share, I would greatly appreciate it.

Also, I will be top coating in a low luster floor paint. Is it better for traction purposes to sand before the last coat to get a very smooth surface, or is a slight texture better?

The layout is about 75' in lenght, will 3 power taps including the driver stations be sufficient? Or will I need more. On plastic I had five for about the same lenght.

Thanks in advance.

RickD
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Thanks DE,

I was able to do some more work on the track since I saw u guys at the race on Friday night. I think it will be ready in about a week.

I want to have you and a few of the other racers over for an inaugural race. I'm new to routed tracks , so I hope everything works as planned. With the help and advice from members on the board, laying the tape and wiring is going well.

I'll post some progress fotos in a day or so.

RickD
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
RickD,

No power taps necessary as far as I know. None of the board tracks in our group have them with no noted loss of power anywhere.

Copper tape, its easy to lay, just like putting sticky tape down. On corners, try to only stick the outside edge of the tape flat and have the inside overlap on itself slighty as the inside radius of the tape needs to be shorter than the outside.

With the painting of the slots, i got a small brush about an inch wide and trimmed half of the bristles off so it was easier to get it in the slots to paint. It will be messy but you need another coat of top paint to finish it off so it will work out ok.

As for the sanding, I can't recall if I sanded mine or not to be honest but I know I made my brush strokes fairly parallel to the slots and I have very good grip.

Some guys in our group have added stuff to their paint that is used on stairs to improve grip levels but I am not convinced it works in slot terms. When the track is dusty it is better for sure but when vaccumed or wiped with a damp cloth, you then get less rubber on the track as the tyres runs over the raised fragments (sand like) on the surface. Less contact = less grip so smoother the better. Maybe sand down after your second coat, but only lightly.

Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
446 Posts
Nice
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top