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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Genesis Intro Cars

For those of you not aware of the Genesis cars and apologies to the BSCRA racers who are, (I write this as a newbie to BSCRA racing) Skyline Raceways is running the initial fixture list this year using the Genesis 1/32 cars. Below is my ramblings on building and racing a Genesis car as an encouragement to come down to the club and have a go. (Club has loan cars & controllers).

The Genesis formula is an introduction class to BSCRA racing using fixed specification cars where the cars have the same wheels, tyres, chassis, motor, guide and use vac form bodies from an approved list to create a level playing field and keep the costs down. The Genesis kits , specification rules and a build instruction sheet are available through the BSCRA website (£60) or the club usually has some second hand ones available for sale.

Below is my effort, not the greatest paint job but the bodies seem to have a short life as this one is torn already from progressing up the learning curve, and I have a new and hopefully better painted shell on the way.

Genesis%20small_zpsssvfakmg.jpg


The cars run a Falcon @48K rpm motor, in a laser cut stainless steel chassis with sponge slick tyres and so will run faster and handle better than standard hard bodied cars due to the low C of G, and the chassis dynamics my chassis shown below.

IMG_1558_zps5s6bguga.jpg?t=1497107136


Chassis pic

There is an excellent PDF file on the BSCRA site on how to build a Genesis so I will skip the build details and just add a few personal observations.

· Be careful soldering the rear bearings to the chassis hoops as the solder can wick to the axle holes, keep the axle in and well oiled, aids alignment, keeps solder out.

· The kits may not have sufficient washers to set the front guide up correctly but any suitable flat washer can be used to get the ride height correct.

· Avoid splaying the braid out too much as it can lead to the guide rising out of the slot by riding up the track braid slot walls

· Rear tyres will need to be ground down to lower the ground clearance and improve handling, recommended height under the chassis at the motor is 0.6mm. I have managed to do this with the tyres mounted on the car using a flat steel plate, coarse grade sandpaper and an adjustable power supply to keep the voltage low.

· Body shell is supplied with re-enforcing tape for the fixing pin body shell holes, other tapes I.e. electrical also work and is recommended to avoid tearing

· Mount the body shell such that there is a gap between the motor and the body shell to allow the side pans to freely move and is trimmed following the chassis line such that the chassis skids hit the track first not the body shell.

· Body pins need to have a slight curve bent into them so that they are a force fit into the chassis tubes otherwise they will fall out.

The vac form body shell can be painted with acrylic paints either by brush or spray can/air brush but is painted inside out so work out the order of painting first. Tamiya, Halfords or specific paint for lexan ( I.e. for RC car bodyshells) is used not forgetting to wash the bodyshell in soapy water first otherwise the paint will flake off in use. Note I found it easier to paint the driver on the outside of the shell as easier to determine the detail.

The Falcon motor current requirements are similar to the NSR 38K boxer motors both take @30 watts of power loaded (Source Slotcar News motor list) so electronic controllers used for hard bodied will work but will run hotter than say running 23K Slot-It FC130 motors. (Note have measured @16A+ peak under acceleration for the Falcon. )

Standard resistor controllers and resistors I.e. 35-55 ohms used for hard bodied cars will be too sluggish to control as the Falcon motor pulls 2-8 times the current compared to hard bodied motors, so a low ohmage (15 ohms) or electronic controller is advisable.

Note: All controllers should have either an inline fuse or a protective cut out as the club power supply is rated at 600 amps and although each lane is fused down to 30A this is more than sufficient to fry any leads, transistors or controller resistors in hard bodied controllers with ease before the lane protection cuts in.

On the track, those of us new to this racing and using our hard bodied electronic controllers found that dialling back the sensitivity helps with controlling the power and reducing brakes helps with obtaining a sooth flowing pace around the track. From the limited racing so far apparent that the cars are fairly well matched and that driving errors for the newbies were losing races rather than outright speed to win. The track has a technical section furthest away from the drivers stand so a lot of practice needed here to get a smooth transition.

Cheers

JCS100
 

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Hi JCS100

I found your post interesting. For the last 2 years I have raced Hard Bodied Cars and I still have my BSCRA cars that I last raced at Ipswich about 30 years ago. The one thing I do not understand is why the BSCRA cars do not have front wheels or even a 'front axle' anymore? On my BSCRA cars the 'front axle' was made of bent piano wire!

Regards

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Andy,

Some of the BSCRA classes still have functional wheels but many do not as they rely on the front horns of the chassis to act as skids, all I can say is from my limited experience it works.

Many of the people who have turned up to the club are 'old timers' that raced or have continued to race BSCRA cars since the seventies, so you are more than welcome to dig out your cars and bring them down to the club to try out if you close enough to visit.

Tony,

Yes quite right the stick on wheels are missing they are in fact stuck to the 1st body shell for which the paint job is so appalling that I refuse to post a pic of it. Have drawn up some new wheels and will put a set on the 3rd shell which is awaiting the paint shop as the second shell is used for practice.

Cheers

JCS100
 

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Many years ago it was found that skids worked better than front wheels on everything excepts F1s. There must have been quite a few chassis like that around 30 years ago although some would have relied on front wheels instead of skids. Until quite recently the rules still required "working" front wheels even though they were generally mounted so as to not do anything. Now the rules don't require "working" front wheels in most classes (they are required in F1). There are quite a few cars built before the rule change still running with front wheels.
 

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Hi 300SLR,

Thanks for the explanation did not know about the skids. The main other difference appears to be the change from orange sponge to black sponge!

Hi JCS100

I live in Maldon and currently race hard bodied cars at the Colchester club, however the club will not be continuing next year so I am keeping my options open. I also enjoy racing NASCAR using the Mack chassis at South Essex and the Southend (Bowers Gifford) clubs. You maybe aware that George Turners South Essex track has been dismantled and the club are now looking for new premises. A couple of people I race with, Alan Bevan and Colin Wilkinson have visited your club, I am also following the Skyline Raceway Facebook page.

I will come and visit but first I need to replace the dried out orange sponges on my BSCRA cars and on a couple of 1/24th cars for new black ones. I know that the orange sponges were very unrealistic but they did have a certain appeal! Do you buy your new sponge wheels/tyres from Pendles? I normally use NSR T&G.

Regards

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Andy,

Being new to BSCRA racing (Hard body club racer for last 15 years) so far have not had to replace the sponge tyres, and generally have been poncing spares off Ron or Richard here at the club. Not sure who is best to go to yet externally but Ron has some plans to get stock of the consumables in to sell to club members.

Sure that someone here on the forum can recommend a good source for the sponge tyres.

The club is racing every Thursday evening now after 6.30pm so would suggest come down and some one here may have some spares they can sell to you. Failing that Ron has some club cars and spare controllers so you can have a race.

Cheers

JCS100
 

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Hi JCS100

Thank you for the information. I am going on holiday soon so I will look at coming down sometime in July. Apart from using Pendles I have also bought some Hawk motors from AB Slot so I will look on their website to see what they have, from memory they stocked both BSCRA and Hard Bodied racing products.

Regards

Andy
 

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Black sponge is available from all the normal suppliers of BSCRA type slot car parts - see the BSCRA web site http://www.bscra.org.uk/ You can responge the hubs you already have. If you are buying new hubs, make sure you get the right size for you axles -are your 30 year old ones are 3/32"? This is still the most common size but there are some 2mm axles about. It's petty much a racing certainty the 30 year old orange sponge will have deteriorated so it's not giving anywhere near the grip it did when new.

Black rear sponge pretty much replaced orange and red some years ago worldwide, all the orange and red stuff I come across in recent years is old stock that doesn't work like when it was new.
 

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We are holding a full race evening this Thursday from 6.pm running the 32 Genisis class

we have a number of ready to run cars to buy or use on the night

hope to see a few new people come along and have a go

cheers Ron
 

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Hi 300SLR

Yes the axles I have on my old BSCRA cars are 3/32nd, I have plenty of old orange sponge tyres so I will look at putting new black sponge onto the hubs, I don't have a tyre truer but I know someone who does. I did try soaking a pair of the orange sponges in oil to soften them but it made little difference.

Hi JCS100/Ron

I cannot make this Thursday but I will be coming on Saturday morning for practice.

Regards

Andy
 

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Hi Ron

Thank you for the warm welcome this morning and it was good to meet with you and see the track.

As I am now a proud owner of a Genesis car I will have to come along and race it one Thursday in July. Just need to buy some black sponges now for the rest of my cars, was rather surprised when my BSCRA cars went the wrong way but Richard explained that this was changed about 15 years ago to bring us in line with the rest of the world.

Regards

Andy
 
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