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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One of the most irritating design features of ALL the 1/32 scale home-racing cars are their "plug-in" guides. These devices were designed a long time ago by a person who had no clue of their actual function, and this shows in verses when you place your brand new cars on any track. Poor contact, braid wearing in the wrong area, poor handling, difficulties in changing the prematurely wearing braided contact, dumb rivet connections... you name it, it's there.

So here is my small contribution to this Vast Right Turn Conspiration. Click on the link below and find Lousy Guide Relief Without Aspirin.

http://www.tsrfcars.com/Tguide-install.htm
 

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Allan Wakefield
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5,857 Posts
Nice job!

Shame I didn't see that last time I tried to do that


Will have another go...
 

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Whoa man, thats a lot of work, plus your ruining a slot car. You wouldn't get that car to conform to any regulations for guides out here in Oz. They usually work fine as they are, to a point, but thats a touch of womp doctoring too much. I'm afraid you'll have to keep practicing with the standard versions a little longer yet. Dont worry, you'll eventually get the experience to drive them properly, it takes a little longer for some of the oldies to come back to the point of the home brand slot car. It looks to me your fuzzing the line between what is really a toy home brand and a commercial application for these cars and guides. Yes they can be improved, but is it worth vandalising a car to do it.

See if you can get a Scalextric veteran to give you some driving tips. I cant remember when a guide was a problem around here.
 

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Graham Windle
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4,445 Posts
Hi Phillipe,
your guide conversion is a first class fix for a modified car,but as UK squeezea points out the use of it can prohibit cars from being raced in Europe or OZ
Personaly if club rules allowed I would use a guide such as yours or a jet flag in preference to a scalex type but as most of the racing is for basic stock out of the box types we are stuck with the standard guide or the slotit deep guide which although slightly better suffers from the pick up /eyelet problem of the standard item so until the big manufacturers wise up then I guess were stuck with what we got,which is why I still build my own cars.
Graham
 

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Big Graham is right. Yell, swear, take the Lords name in vain, but above all else, get used to it, nothing earth shattering about hacking the front out of a car for a better guide. Its been done before, always knocked back and at the core of the hobby, frowned upon. Best way to prepare yourself mentally for driving Scalextric cars Phillipe, is have your kids squeeze out a tube of toothpaste, and you try and hold it in there by putting your finger over the end.

No really, it is!
 

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uksqueezea,
While racing in the land of OZ may be what you do. There is a large crowd in other countries where this mod is allowed. I have no problem cutting up a chassis and if someone does there is a fair likelyhood of spares being around somewhere if you need to go back to stock. Using a wide braid guide makes perfect sense on plastic chassis cars since depending on the brand, rail configureation varies somewhat and getting good braid contact is difficult. If you would take the time and actually try the upgrade you would notice a marked improvement in electrical contact. If your rules prohibit such mods then so be it but that's not a reason to criticise the upgrade. Why not instead give everyone some suggestions on how to properly tune their "stock" unit. I thought this forum was going to be for constructive advice. If it isn't then I'm out of here. I can get the humor and bull**** from other sites.

Jim
 

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Matt Tucker
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3,550 Posts
Excellent - I'm always fiddling with stock guides, getting them to sit lower, reducing wobble, ensure braids are snug and low. Never ending and never perfect. Found the slot-it guides best so far but still needs work.

However check out the new Scalextric guide which is a big improvement and has no slop. More details are in my TVR review. Works on similar principles to the pdl guide. Scaly have listened and improved.

However can't get hold of the whole mechanism from Scaly yet (just the braid holder) so I have yet to try and retro fit it - I might have to try it though to give my NASCAR a bit of a edge.

Anyway for the modified classes changing guides is permissable in my club so I'll have to give this system a go - where do you get them from?

Swiss - need to add this to the resources section with some 'health warnings' about checking with the rules of the classes to ensure this is permissable. However if your looking for an advantage in your informal home races then this is worth exploring.

Tuck
 

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Dude if your gonna swear on the net, USE CAPITALS!! ITS MORE EFFECTIVE!
Now Jim, relax mate, some of these cars are toys, some are not, check the box that the car came in. Its written there.
Maybe I should help. Can we get a look at exactly which tracks and which electrical connections are giving you grief and also a brief outline of what you expect from your cars. If some of the manufacturers are unfortunately building cars to a standard lower than you were expecting, check exactly what level they ARE mean't to perfom at in regards manufacturers specifications, age for users and go from there.
Ring them, dont worry about an email. I'd give you all the numbers, but Tropi would spank me!

But for sure, show us the track your running on, which manufacturers electrical connections wont let there cars perform to a standard you assumed they would, and I'll ask FLY tomorrow what they think of having one of all this. Could take a while, the question taking dude wont be in till Friday.
 

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Matt Tucker
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Pic of the new Scalextric guide system (available of TVR T400R). Braids connected to motor via wires with plates on the end. Plates slot in to the guide and then the seperate braid holder clips over it. The whole mechanism is held in place by a small screw. Works very well and guide is a bit deeper that previous blue one - OK on sport but clicks on classic. If you want to change the braid just slide the braid holder off and put another one on - no need to remove the whole mechanism.

Matt
 

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An alternate view from another Oz racer and track owner!

G'day Guys,

Dave put a sock in it will you
, that a boy.

Jim, Phillipe and everyone, other Aussies like me come to these boards to learn from others, please don't think all of us here follow the ''meat and three veg'' doctrine/diatribe ladled out by some.

Thank you for posting these tips for us, we DO appreciate your efforts in putting them on a public forum for all to view.

I agree with Jim, if we want a slinging match, go to another board, we're off to a good start here (excellent actually), best not to spoil it.

As per the mentioned mod not being ''legal'' in Oz, says who????

To my knowledge we don't have any manner of uniform rules for 1/32 racing in Oz yet, I've asked about this matter before and despite the assurances nothing has come about.

My overview of the situation is that there are small groups and clubs of 1/32 racers scattered throughout OZ busily doing there own thing.

As such, I think it best to keep in mind that individual clubs decide what they can or cannot do in their own little neck of the woods.

I'm sorry Dave, but I honestly tire of your bombastic way of going about things, it's not funny and as an office bearer of a National association I'd expect you to act in a more responsible manner. If you want some agnst, go down to the ''Country Club'' or Petrie pub, I'm sure someone will oblige you........

To the other guys reading this, my apologies for the tirade, but this is now the third board I've seen similar nonsense posted on. Sorry.....

Best Wishes,

Rob Wessling.

MILLENNIUM RACEWAY Slot Racing at Darling Downs, Q.
 

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Al Schwartz
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3,392 Posts
Like ice cream, guides come in all flavors - If you want to make a peach melba, it had better be vanilla but if you want to try something different, try chocolate sprinkled with salted peanuts and doused with raspberry liquor! (don't gag, try it first)

Similary, if the local rules are box stock or similar with tire choice, weight etc - of course the guide is off limits but there are other rule sets where the guide is fair game* as well as a group of racers for whom modified plastic chassis are a bridge to full blown scratch building. I have not seen the new Scalextric guide so I can't comment but most of the stock set-ups are pretty poor. I think the Carrera guides are a particulary bad example - so loose that they must go nose down as they are running - like dipping the bow of a Sydney Harbor 18 - not a good idea!

I know PdL and I can assure you that he can drive any slot car very well, no matter what its faults might be. He is also devoted to the idea of making soundly engineered slot car systems available at affordable prices. (viz. the TSRF line.)

Then there is the murky area of guide modification - Ninco and Carrera guides must be shaved to run on Scalextric Classic track - and how about braid? I prefer to throw away the stock Scalextric wire brush material and fit Slot-It braid. Is this still "stock"?

EM

*Last weekend I participated as a driver in the second leg of the "Race Across America" proxy (well documented on the SCI board) The basic rule require the use of a Carrera chassis but permits chassis mods (no hinges, metal or wires) as well as essentially free choice of wheels, tires, gear sets and guide as well as magnet(s) to taste. The variety of approaches taken by the participants was very interesting and, in some cases confounded by the fact that the races are planned for 11 different tracks of varying surfaces and systems.
 

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Theres more to toy cars then playing with them as they come out of the box.

So a tip here or there to improve the terrible things passing for guides from most of the toy makers is no big problem. If your local racing group does not approve, so be it. Your tough luck, grin an bear it.

Why then must you also tune these perfect toys out of the box either. Run it as it flops out of the box. No improvements like axle spacers, gluing in bushings, hot gluing motors in rigidly, no more replacing bent axles out of the box stock car, no more truing tires allowed. Or any of the other sundry things you do to make the stupid things even go around the track then either mate.

For myself and others after 41 years in slots the current crop of hardbody cars are strickly seen as available raw materials to build a decent looking/running car out of the bodies only. The rest "is for the dust bin". But then thats our opinion as is yours.

To each his own. Long may the differences in the world, keep us from being bored to tears

Larry S.
 

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Read and re-read Uksqueezy's posts and I can't see why some are objecting.

He's got a perfectly valid point: to do TS's modifications requires cutting up your toy.

Some of us don't ever want to take it that seriously. These toys we play with will run fine and dandy for the majority without recourse to x-acto blades and dremels. Of course if you are of an engineering/modelling bent and you feel the need, the need for speed, then go for it.

I don't think PDL pretends he is making toys for mass consumption. I think he is making high end products for those more serious about slot cars and he seeks to raise the performance of cars he buys from others. Fine and dandy. I've had my run ins with him but I now appreciate he's playing at a different level to me. Horses and courses.

Please let us all acknowledge that folks are entitled to hold opinions contrary to our own and are entitled to share them. It ain't being negative, it's pointing out the flip side and I think it makes for more interesting threads when opinion is divided and language measured.

Jimmy, PDL, your input and knowledge, and your presence here is appreciated.

UKsqueeza, ditto.

[moderator's hat on]
Can we keep the swearing out?
 

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Ooh. Just checked out some of those links.

I've had a Can Am 917 on the shelf for a few weeks now, increasingly uncontent at having to just have it sit there, as having witnessed the damage caused to the low front bodywork on one by Oxford's uneven (is that the word?
) plexy I vowed to wait until the day (when will that be exactly?) that we rebuild with flat track before running it.

I just don't care for shelf queens. No matter how impressive they are.

So, I need to get me a Ninco guide, eh? Nice tip.

Of course, she'll no longer be "box standard" but we don't run classics in classes yet.
 

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Some of the Euro cars have really bad set ups of guide ride height. The worst that I have seen were some of the SCX before the "suspension" guide. For some reason FLY still puts one out now and then. Typical symptoms usually show up as poor electrical contact because of excess space between the track rails and the guide braid. Some of the guilty ones to various degrees are the FLY Lola T70, Saleen and I believe the Can Am 917. Going to one of the production guides that has a "built in" spacer can solve the problem.

As for guide slop, there are several things you can do to the stock guide which probably will get past inspectors. One is to tighten the tolerance using superglue just like you can do with the rear axle bushings. Remove the guide and over lub the guide axle. Put a drop or two of superglue in the guide holder. reinstall the guide and gently turn it back and forth until the glue sets up you should feel it as it does. This will greatly improve the problem especially on some Carrera cars which seem to plagued by this problem.
Another thing you can do , and this might be legal in some clubs, is to slip thin 1/8th inch washers over the guide axle "knob" on the end. these will be forced against the top of the chassis guide holder. The pressure will remove some of the slop but not all of it.

I think some of the mfgrs are trying to tighten the tolerances on their cars in this area. The last 2 FLY cars I got, Lola B98s, were both much better and when I installed the TSRF system the holes were in fact smaller than the sleeve that is in the guide kit.

Jim
 
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