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I've been using white glue (Bondfast) to glue various clear parts in place as it does not discolour the material. The problem I've found is that it is not terribly strong.

With my last build (Porsche 909) I had to fix a rather large circular windscreen to the outside of the body which was not perfectly flat. Needless to say the slightest bump and the windscreen would pop off.

I tried a variety of glues on scrap plastic pieces and found that Gorilla glue has an incredible bond, did not discolour and had the same sheen as the plastic. Hope this helps.

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Try GS Hypo cement...strong glue.....it is used by jewellers and craft types and dries clear. It also comes in a tube with a needle applicator which is very handy, but you must clean it well with lighter fluid before closing and leaving it, or the needle often sticks in the tube.

Mark
 

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I use and recommend Canopy glue Formula 560...looks like PVA, dries clear with some flexibility in about 30mins - 60mins depending on temperature.
 

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*** Leo A Capaldi ***
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I have found that using cyano glue and letting it cure in the draft from an electric fan works well. The fogging is caused by the fumes from the glue - providing powerful ventilation effectively dilutes/removes the fumes.

Do a trial first...

Leo
 

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I can strongly recommend UHU plus transparent. If you manage to mix it without to many air bubbles this 2k epoxy dries clear.

And when I mean clear..I mean crystal clear. Excess glue can be cleaned up with zippo or cleaning petrol. Strong bond but still a bit flexibele, Ideal for slot cars. And if you aver need to remove/replace a glued part. Soak the seam with hippo/cleaning petrol to break the bond.

with kind regards

Tamar
 

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very interesting post .
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Like Leo , I use cyano to keep my transparent parts in place but ..........: never let a bit of humidity on the part or there will be a bad spot.

after that , I still use the good old Kristal clear and it's pretty strong .

I'll try the Gorilla next time .
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
And here I naively thought I'd hit the holy grail of scratch building....
 

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Kevs Racing Bits
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2,712 Posts
Canopy glue or GS Hypo here too.

How about UV glue? I bought some months ago for my windscreen but it's still in it's packet...should cure crystal clear
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You can get 5 second fix UV glue for 3 quid posted you-know-where
 

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Anthony Bartlett
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Gonna give Gorilla clear a shot - thanks for the tip off (I too use canopy glue - but confirm the Bond is not strong)
 

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Gerald Lambourn
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This reminded me that I have some resin based glue stronger than PVA. I going to rebody two Ferrari F40 with the Policar kits so I'll use this for the windows. Let's hope they stay together until I can sell them!
 

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Gordon Steadman
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I find that GS Hypo does not offer a strong enough bond although it may be the materials I am usually trying to stick. Balsa and clear packaging plastic as I make the bodies myself.

I've started using 5 minute epoxy. Great care is needed though and I have big clumsy fingers.
 

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(I too use canopy glue - but confirm the Bond is not strong
i havent noticed that but can say that the Canopy glue is forgiving in that if mistakes are made it can be rubbed. picked, pulled away and leaves the surface pretty clean again ready for another attempt......ask me how I know.
 

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Kevs Racing Bits
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I got one of those 'Quick 5 Second UV Light fix Liquid Plastic Welding compound glue repair pen tool' off ebay today, £2.99 posted. Quick test on a fingernail, impressed. Tried a window in a car, 5 seconds, crystal clear and going nowhere...why didn't I think of getting one of these before! Brilliant must-have in everyones pit box.
 
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