[circuittaps]

Out of curiosity I would like to know which kind or make of glue the experts are using when the callange is resin connected to metal etched parts?

Today I am using UHU Power Glue from Germany, and I am not 100% happy and satisfied with the result.

/Holger

 

[FootScoot]

I normally use 5 minute epoxy on small photoetched parts. This gives you enough time to reposition them if accidentally placed wrong. I have also used Gorilla super glue, which is just flexible enough to keep them from coming off in a mishap.

 

[Coides]

If it's a delicate job (and it usually is!) I use epoxy (in the UK this usually means Araldite). I usually locate the part in the correct position with superglue (this can be pulled apart if you get it wrong first time) then add the epoxy when I'm happy with the result. Apart from its great strength, epoxy can also be applied then the excess glue is removed using tissues, making a perfect finish.

Best wishes

Andy

 

[circuittaps]

Footscoot + Andy - thanka a lot, but could you please be a bit more specific or go into more details here.

My problem is, that if I search on the web for epoxy Araldite or Gorilla Super Glue I got a whole lot of hits, but with many different article numbers, declaration etc.etc. Not to mention single or twin tube sets?

So could you please point me a bit more detailed in the right direction here? A photo of your prefered glue would be a great help, for example.

/Holger

 

[FootScoot]

Here's what I use for adhesives. I thought it was 5 minute epoxy, but it's 12 minute. The JB Weld is a steel added epoxy, tough stuff. It will fix cracked automotive heads, and blocks. Great for gluing magnets in place. The Gorilla Glue is an impact resistant glue.

 

[honestjudge]

For very fine work, resin to metal, and for securing glazing without the frost, I use GS-hypo jewellers glue. It is meduim strength and it sets in about 12 minutes.

It will not give the ultimate bond of Cryo cements but for most of my resin work I have never looked back.

 

[stoner]

I use a two part polyesther resin with a 3 min grab time. £0.99 from china. its the only glue i will use on plastic chassis and bodies, inc resin parts. john

 

[alexis in greece]

I use Bison Epoxy Metal

It has a long curing time(i usually leave it cure overnight) but has never let me down.As someone also mentioned before
i use superglue to hold the pieces together.

 

[stoner]

By the way. gorilla super glue comes in 2 different versions, the one pictured and one with rubber added. Mr Stickey[ebay] does the black rubber flexy CA glue, Thats a lot cheaper than gorilla, and its really good stuff. the polyester glue i use is also an ebay item. I can look it up if you,re interested. john

 

[circuittaps]

Man, this is getting complicated - at least for Dane.....

FootScoot - thanks for the photo, it clearly helps. But what is the difference between epoxy and hardener?

honestjudge - "It will not give the ultimate bond of Cryo cements but for most of my resin work I have never looked back"..... hmmm???

Greek Alexis - what is the secret behind the twin tube? Will the glue mix up automaticly once you push the piston, or do you have to mix manual?

John - YES PLEASE, that would be a BIG help.

Anyway gentlemen, your help is much appriciated and one day I will surely have figured it all out. In the meantime exact names and for all photos would be great, since I am ordering via the web, and not many pages uses the same words as you do. And if they do, there always seems at least two different versions to choose from.....

Out of your topics I have managed one step: You all seems to use super glue to keep the piece in place, and afterwards you secure it with epoxy. Right?

/Holger

 

[Ecurie Martini]

Another view - I do not use "superglue" to hold etched parts in place. In most instances, etched parts are details that are applied after painting. The solvent base of superglue is very aggressive and will lift, etch and/or wrinkle almost any paint.

My preferred material is a two-part epoxy marketed in the USA by Devcon. It is a quick cure (5 min.) system and, while it does not have the strength of long curing epoxies, it is still very strong. I also use this material for attaching clear plastic parts such as windscreens and headlight covers. It will not etch the plastic and since it dries clear minor mistakes are not visible.

Another advantage of this system relates to the possible need for restoration or repainting of an "experienced" car. Immersion in warm soapy water overnight will typically release the bond without damaging the part.

EM

 

[circuittaps]

Ecurie Martini - sounds great, but....

If I search for "Devcon epoxy" multiple of hits comes up. If I add "two part" only one comes up on eBay for example. Please see

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1oz-DEVCON-Two-P...=item231c2e4aa9

Two tubes? Do I have to mix them myself? And if yes, how? 50:50 maybe.

/Holger

 

[alfetta]

Holger
Follow this address and you will find exactly what you need Axminster tools
Peter

 

[Ecurie Martini]

QUOTE (circuittaps @ 17 Jul 2012, 12:17) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Ecurie Martini - sounds great, but....

If I search for "Devcon epoxy" multiple of hits comes up. If I add "two part" only one comes up on eBay for example. Please see

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1oz-DEVCON-Two-P...=item231c2e4aa9

Two tubes? Do I have to mix them myself? And if yes, how? 50:50 maybe.

/Holger

Looks like what I use. Yes - you mix them yourself 50:50 (but not supercritical) I squeeze out equal lengths from each tube - typically about 4mm - and mix for 30 seconds - a toothpick makes a good mixer and applicator.

Also - do not mix up the caps when replacing them on the tubes!

EM

 

[alexis in greece]

QUOTE (circuittaps @ 17 Jul 2012, 17:25) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Greek Alexis - what is the secret behind the twin tube? Will the glue mix up automaticly once you push the piston, or do you have to mix manual?

/Holger
You allways have to mix manually but the twin tube ensures that equal quantities come out when you press the piston.
Bison also make a 2 part 5min transparent epoxy which is quite strong but it has a problem,in Greece at least,one of the 2 components leaks while in storage at high ambient temperatures (over 30).

 

[stoner]

Hy Holger, The Polyester 2 part glue i use on chassis and body,s for repair or modifying.[ i just repaired a fly chassis with it. the chassis was cracked through, nearly all the way across the centre. and didn,t have any strenghthening ribs on it. it was a big ask, but i drilled a small hole at the end of the crack, glued it and layed it on teflon paper to set. after 36 hours i cleaned the excess off the top and its better than new. you can take the chassis and flex it all you want and it wont crack again in the same place. i only discovered it by accident in my quest for glues, that would actually bond the funny plastic they use for bodies and chassis. thats stronger than the surounding area.] the glue doesn,t have a name. its just for automotive use. its 2 part. 1 red and 1 green tube. the ebay name is Suliwenshop or the shop is called Breezilybiz. It costs £1+0.99P&P from china. john