Good round Tuff Ones tires in silicone

Do the fling when you are running, or just when you lift and free rev them playing Joe Hotrodder?

If you are flinging tires, try some old school gaske-cinch if you can find it. You can also thin down 3M77 to make it less like elephant snot, for a more controllable application.

The train of thougth is that if you balloon the ID, it tightens the traction patch, and changes the character/adhesion to some detriment. Cars shod in this manner, will break adhesion earlier when under duress in the turns, and be more prone to on throttle wheel spin.

H0 tires? Far from a perfect world.

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I get the whole Rocket Science concept, I ran Jack's tires for years.

For H0: I learned this trick from John "Doba" Shea about 20 years ago. So simple a caveman can do it.

Insert the axles and mount the wheels Put one tire on so you can use it to spin the unshod wheel.

Put a drop of your chosen adhesive on a tooth pick. Holding the chassis in one hand, and use your index finger to spin the shod wheel. Touch the drop (not the toothpick) to the unshod wheel. This will pull the drop neatly around the rim in a pleasing uniform application, without making a big goobery mess. Install the tire. Repeat for the other side.

If you have your ducks in a row, you can do a whole car in a matter of seconds.

I wonder if Rocket Science are too soft and rolls off the tire?

Specialtyplastics1 on ebay lists OD and ID as well as compound:
T-jet Skinny Performance Pro Silicone Tires Compound C2

Barley Legal Stock Class - Fray Skinny - Echorr Nostalgia

.353 OD On .188 Stock Rims
.353 OD X .100 Wide X .150 ID

Fits Aurora Slot Car Chassis Hub's And Delrin Flange Rims

My rims are .187 inch so they are mighty close to original stock.

For compound, he lists C1, C2, and C3. Thoughts?

"Shoudnt they stay on ?"

You specified some slip and slide in the name of originality.

RS tires are a blend of foam and silicone. Note how light they are. Consider that the same properties exist at the ID that occur at the OD. They're not magic tires that have different properties between the ID and OD.

I never had problems with shucking the Tuff Ones and AFX widths. The T-jet tire works best on a MEV rim, rather than the double thick lip on t-jets standard hubs.

Bead locking, because you're driving outta your tires isnt a new concept at any scale. It was very common in the golden era of slots. It's the first step in the production of modern silifoams.

Perhaps coat the ID of the RS tire with flowable clear silicone to pad the ID, and for better purchase on the rim, without bonding proper.

Good luck!

To answer the question in post 27, tires are made to be a certain diameter when they are mounted on a given OD wheel. If the wheel is larger or smaller in diameter the mounted diameter will be different. As an example, Super Tires Pro series tires are made in incremental sizes and were originally intended to have the specified ODs on 0.188" OD wheels. The OD of the tires were sized so that the tires would not come off of those wheels. While the tires were still in development and had not yet been released for sale it was discovered that they would give slightly better performance if they were on 0.170" wheels. The reason for that is that the tires are not stretched as much on the smaller diameter wheels and are thus a little softer. If you use the tires with the 0.170" on a road course you might not have a problem with them coming off, but on an oval the inside tire is likely to gradually slip off of the wheel unless you glue it on or use double flange wheels.
For each tire in the Pro Series there is a mounted diameter for both wheel diameters.
Super Tires could have had more molds made so that the tires would stay on single flange wheels, that would have meant having at least ten more CNC machined molds made and that would have cost thousands of dollars. Having a slightly smaller ID would have partially cancelled out the advantage of using smaller OD wheels.
There are several types of silicone that are used to make tires. The older type that was first used in the '60s tears easily and will eventually get permanently stretched. Newer silicone tires mostly use a more durable compound that is not likely to tear and also resists taking a permanent stretch. If you are using tires made of the older formulation they may need to be replaced from time to time.
I have done a great deal of tire testing, but my experience with Jel Claws is limited. I tend to look at things from a racer's perspective and a racer is usually looking for a forgiving tire with maximum grip. Jel Claws are EPDM, which is used for automotive window gaskets. If you normally run silicone tires on your track Jel Claws will become coated with silicone residue and lose all of their grip. When I tested Jel Claws I stripped my track down with lighter fluid and ran hundreds of laps on the Jel Claws to condition it before I went for some lap times. I only tested the Aurora Hot Rod sized tires and was not able to get as much grip as with silicone tires. The same thing happened when I compared silicone and urethane tires. If you were to stick with natural rubber tires and Jel Claws you might not have a problem.

The "aftermarket" industry has always been scketchy. Valve covers, intake manifolds, you name it, it almost fits. After you work on it for a while...

You would think that they would make a prototype and say "Nope, this ain't close enough". But no... in fact, many things are "almost right" for years and years without being updated.

And so it goes with slot car tires. For a while (pre-blog days) I was using various Tyco tires. Some where better than others. Some I probably got at a hobby store.

Regardless, they were coming off the wheel. You do what you gotta do, and as mentioned, I applied a little silcone to the wheels and slid the tires on and let them sit.

It was less than optimum, but it was fine.

I have never had a problem with that with Supertires.