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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey folks -
Me again!

I have been reading away here and I am just after realising that I have 2 power supplies I am not using anymore (they are extremely good quality, I used them for peltier cooling my computers- these though are not PC power supplies, different beast all together) that may well be of use with my scalextric sport track.

I have one of each:

SE-600-15 - http://www.meanwell.com/search/sp-320/sp-320-spec.pdf outputs 10-13.2 DC 25amp

SP-320-12 - http://www.meanwell.com/search/se-600/se-600-spec.pdf outputs 13.5 -16.5 DC 40amp

I am certain of sticking with two lanes for the next year or two -and these power supplies both have 3 positive and 3 negative output taps on them.

what do yo u think?

worth incorporating into my track? I would like to use 1 or the other.

thanks!
 

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Administrator
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10,138 Posts
Oh and dont forget the standard analogue powerbase is designed to take AC, so you might want to disable two diodes and short two or you may overload them.
 

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One petunia in a field of onions
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6,455 Posts
Why not drop the analogue power base out altogether and put power direct to track, particularly seeing as you're contemplating an upgrade on the controllers?

Just an option to consider. No more clunky boxy thing attached to the track.

Embs
 

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It would be wise to put a fuse in the supply to each lane. That will stop too much current flowing if the track gets a short circuit - like something metal gets dropped on the rails. The fuse needs to be a little above the maximum the cars normally take - 2 or 3 amps will be about right for mildly uprated home set cars. more if you run much more powerful cars.

The 25amp supply will give more than enough current for a pair of the sort of motors usable on Scalex track. so the choice is down to which voltage range suits you.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks folks
While I will try them both - I am theoretically leaning towards the 10v-13v range as I find standard scalextric analogue sport power base and standard scalextric cars too fast as it is. And that's before my slot.it's arrive....

Is there a way of avoiding power surge on the lane that is still in use when someone crashes?
Or is this an "amperage" issue with the standard set-up?

I will be wiring straight to track positive fused for 3amps but I don't want to have that weird thing where you suddenly start going faster when your opponent de-slots...
 

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Jan Groosmuller
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834 Posts
10-13.5V and 25A on tap is plenty oomph for about any modern plastic car on a home set!
Especially if you upgrade controllers (and drive without the magnet) you will not recognise your cars at first

The sudden increase of speed when the opponent deslots is only an issue if you don't have enough Amps in the PSU, with 25A you're quite OK so no worries there


I recently tested some NSR classics on a home track and they were a blast at under 9 Volts... much more corner control and way more realistic scale racing.
So I would not connect the SE-600 but I would also opt for the SP-320.

Having said that, most club tracks I know of run at about 12V, so no surprise there either
 

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Hi jasperok
Yes there will be an "amperage" issue with the standard set-up, and quite possibly a wiring issues as well.

The main reasons for power surge on the lane that is still in use when someone crashes are:-

1 Track wiring shared between the lanes. The wiring for each lane must be separate right back to the power supply (or at least very close to the power supply terminals). The lanes must be separately fused.

2 An unregulated or poorly regulated power supply ( if it is shared between 2 or more lanes). With an unregulated power supply, the voltage drops as the current drawn increases, this change in voltage is the cause of the power surge.
Either your 25 or 40A supply are well enough regulated that this won't be a problem.

3 A regulated power supply with inadequate current rating ( if it is shared between 2 or more lanes). If it is attempted to draw more than the supply's current limit, the voltage drops, this change in voltage is the cause of the power surge.
Either your your 25 or 40A power supply have more than enough current for your cars so that this won't be a problem. (In fact even 25 amps is far more than you need for those cars, unless you change over to the more powerful metal chassis cars you'll never need that much.)

It's worth remembering that if you car needs a maximum of 2 amps at 12 volts then it'll only take 2 amps at 12 volts. Having lots of amps to spare in the power supply doesn't make any difference to the way the car goes. As long as you have enough amps, changing the voltage is what matters
 

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Rich Dumas
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3,672 Posts
These are switching power supplies and they are regulated. A regulated power supply will eliminate the surge that you get with a cheap power supply when a car comes off. Both of the power supplies have enough power to do a four lane track with nearly any type of motor that is used in 1/32nd slot cars. It would be best to hardwire your track and have a seperate fuse or circuit breaker for each lane.
 

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dont know the price of these 2 but i bet their expensive. look on ebay for chinese switch mode regulated power supplies, ive found 2 both with free p/p 1s a 12v 15amp for £16 the other is 12v 29amp for £26 pm me if you cant find them. john.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cheers John
I do already own these from a few years back when I needed special power supplies for the computer cooling I was into at the time - the bachelor days when I had money to burn
At least there's a new use for one of them now!
Might use the other to run track lights.
 
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