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I'm not sure about Fly controllers as I forgot what they look like but...

All info below is to be used at your own risk

On the Parma controllers (not econo) I would put a thin coat of epoxy over the whole resistor and let it cure. Then, on the side which the wiper contacts, I would very gently file it smooth exposing the resistor wire again. VERY GENTLY. Then to finish it off I used water or light oil on a fine stone to polish it. When I was done the resistor wires would have a very slight flat to them on the wiper side.

Next up was the wiper button. The leading and trailing edges were oh so slightly beveled then the contact area polished. When done, all contact surfaces were cleaned with electrical contact cleaner.

The epoxy served to fill in the gaps between the wire winds as well as secure the wind. The rest is obvious. I did not mention adjusting the tension or anything like that because it too should be obvious.

Side note: With a well prepped Parma controller (not econo) I could not tell the difference between the ball bearing trigger model and the bushed model. I'm pretty sure all I posted above is standard procedure for Parmas, nothing trick. It should all be able to be used on any wire wound resistor controller.
 

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QUOTE (McLaren @ 17 Jan 2005, 09:38)Why spend all that money on a Professor Motor controller when one Parma will do?

I have tried all different ohmage controllers and electronic ones, but have never gone faster than with my 35 Ohm Parma Turbo.

Go figure...

Andy
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Then you don't need any other controllers. Nothing wrong with that. I have a mental problem, I can't stop modifying my cars so I needed several controllers to compensate
It's only when you start racing wildly different cars that you need to worry about more controllers or going electronic.

I used to carry three controllers when I raced HO, all of them Parma's. 35 ohm for stock T-Jets, 25 ohm for stock Super Gs and Tycos, 15 ohms for mildly modified Super Gs and Tycos. For a while there I was also using a 10 ohm controller for highly modified cars but people quit racing them locally so I went back to the mild stuff.

Today I'm trying to learn to race 1/32nd scale cars so I got a Professor Motor unit. Good thing too since I'm still running cars that would need different ohm resistors if I was still using the Parma controllers. Some cars I only need to turn in two adjusters while this weekend I ran cars that required I turn in ALL of my adjusters. Weird.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with Parma controllers. I still think they are very very good and I actually like the design of the handle better than the PM models. But, now I only need to carry one controller instead of three. Plus, I didn't need to do any real work to get smooth action out of it.

If one controller works for you then trick it out to make it more comfortable and you'll actually turn in better lap times more consistently. As to the bearing on the trigger, like I said, in seven years I never really noticed a difference. It definitely sounds cool telling people it's in there though
Yeah, there might be some psyche advantage as well
 
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