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Hi, is there any way of adding grip to a track? Sort of Scalextric Classic.

Problem, I have just built a Cork Screw section onto our home track, and I'm using Scalextric Sport. There is a slight adverse camber, that's a slight problem with std. tyres.
Go around it to fast, as though track was flat, and back end just slides off. To slow and gravity comes into play.
No problems with PaulG, Orts, NSR, just your standard OOTB tyres. Now I would change all tyres, but as I use most for club meets and we run std. tyres, (god know why? If I bought a Ferrari and went racing with it, I would not be using the tyres it came with, I would put racing boots on her).
Was thinking of putting a Classic section in, but just for one small section? The track already has a section of Classic, the up hill bit, not all, about 50%, around 4 bits.
So, what can I put down, a paint of some kind?
Suggestions Please.

Cheers
Andy
 

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I think that paint is your best option. It will increase the grip on Scaley Sport track. I painted my 8 year old Sport track, and the grip level increased by at least 75%. I know that many folks consider the grip level on unpainted Sport track to be poor, but I thought it was sufficient because I like the tires to slide. But admittedly, it was a challenge to drive very old cars with hard, worn out tires. Now, with the painted surface, I can use any tire I want. Ortmanns, PaulG, OOTB, rock hard 45 year old Scaley tires - every tire works great. I think that I could use steel wheels, and the grip would still be sufficient.
 

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I used a water-based Interior Acrylic Emulsion, applied with a brush directly onto the surface. No primer. The hardest part of the job was choosing the color. I went to the paint shop and took the color book outside to the street and tried to choose the color that most closely matched the street surface.
 

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If you use magnets, some people have used metallic primer (I think it was primer) then the track colour over top. It increases the hold of the magnets.
If non-mags this is a moot point.

Cheers!


PS Just saw recently someone referring to rubberized undercoat for a track. Maybe check the forum for more info.
 

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The use of metalic paint will not help at all as the metallic particles are minute alluminium particles and as we all know alley is not magnetic ,rubberized paints are available in various colours usualysold as floor paints, i have also seen sand mixed in small amounts with emulsion to give a fine textured finish,. regards Paul
 

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If you want stuff that will grip like mad.... Liquid latex... it won't exactly stick to the track as it will peel off again if you want it to.... but a layer of that is really sticky to slot car tyres but not stucky to touch
 

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Sorry, I meant magnetic paint.

Here is a link to Joe Graphix track which he has used magnetic paint on.

Cheers!


EDIT: Here is another chap who says he has used magnetic particles in paint for over 2 years (link).

And another whole topic on paint for grip on MDF etc. (link)
 

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I have previously used spray on adhesive glue. It's the stuff they use to glue fabric to wood or that sort of thing. It's only about $10 a can and goes a long way. It dries clear and adds a lot of grip.
Only thing is you have to mask up the rails otherwise it forms a barrier and the cars get no contact. It's as easy as just putting masking tape down.
The glue will wear off eventually, but it's not noticably (visually) and doesn't discolour or Peel.

Just a suggestion anyway
 

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Just been down to B&Q. Started looking at Floor paint, non slip, £15 a can. Way to much, Can far to big for what I need, and they do not do a smaller size. But got talking to a guy, around the same ages as me. Asked him if they did a smaller size, that's how I know they do not. BUT, when I told him what I wanted it for. He Beemed.
"This is what we did years ago', PVA glue, mixed with some sand, painted over.

Now, that to me sounds cool, you would not need that much sand, PVA sticks to most things. Before I go mad and spend, I'm going to go to the nearest beach and get some PVA glue, I mean sand. Already got PVA in the house.
 

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Hi Andy - careful with the sand, you don't want too much grip - you'll wear out tyres like there's no tomorrow. Brad Korando had problems when he tried something similar with Prairie Ridge.

QUOTE The painting process involved primer and paint. I have a friend that is a collision technician and also a slot car hobbiest. He suggested using a primer that his shop uses on plastic car parts before painting. The product is Sikkens Primer PO and acts as an adhesion primer. It comes in an aerosal can. I don't know where it can be purchased since my friend gave me the can, but you might try on-line auto paint suppliers. I simply wiped the track clean and sprayed on the primer. I brushed on DutchBoy flat latex house paint about five minutes after sraying on the primer. I added a sand-like texture additive to the paint (from USG sheetrock company). The texture turned out more abbrasive than exepected. It was actually trueing the tires of the cars running on the track! I say was, because I lightly sanded the track last night to lessen the texture. I used 600 grit sand paper so that only the texture was cut down. The track surface is much better now. The grip is better than the unpainted track, but still allows cars to drift in the corners. My track has been painted for only a few days, but it appears that the surface is pretty durable.

I painted my sport track with Sandtex flexible grey exterior primer - a popular choice on here. No real preparation required & it's very durable - will increase grip levels but still allow sliding when pushing.

If you haven't already tried it, WD40 is a good way to incerase grip. Clean the track surface with it - it evaporates leaving a slightly sticky residue. Apply also to rear tyres - it cleans & softens the rubber - makes a huge difference to grip & is cheap & easy.

Obviously avoid WD40 on your track surface if you plan to paint it though. It's worth cleaning the surface with meths or similar prior to painting anyway.
 

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QUOTE (HuntTheshunt @ 4 May 2011, 16:29) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Andy - careful with the sand, you don't want too much grip - you'll wear out tyres like there's no tomorrow. Brad Korando had problems when he tried something similar with Prairie Ridge.
Just been out for a drive and pick up a penguin, woops, PC. and just driving along, minding my own business, I had a thought.....'careful with the sand, you don't want too much grip - you'll wear out tyres like there's no tomorrow'. Not too sure I like the idea, so, ratio of sand and PVA ???, 1 part sand to 50 parts PVA.

QUOTE I painted my sport track with Sandtex flexible grey exterior primer - a popular choice on here. No real preparation required & it's very durable - will increase grip levels but still allow sliding when pushing. Sandex, Yes, I like that.
QUOTE If you haven't already tried it, WD40 is a good way to incerase grip. Clean the track surface with it - it evaporates leaving a slightly sticky residue. Apply also to rear tyres - it cleans & softens the rubber - makes a huge difference to grip & is cheap & easy.

Obviously avoid WD40 on your track surface if you plan to paint it though. It's worth cleaning the surface with meths or similar prior to painting anyway.
Yes, I know that old chestnut, 1001 things you can do with a tin of WD40. Fish oil.

Cheers, Sandex............B&Q
 

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Hi all,

I really need some help with painting my track surface. I have tried a semi-gloss enamel on my MDF track, but for OOTB tyres there is not a lot of grip, and sillys are undriveable...

I am trying to build a track for my room (2m x 1m - I know, small
), will probably use chipboard, and I need some advice for a paint surface.

However, it needs to be readily available. Basically Dulex and Plascon are my only options...

Please help me!


Thanks,
thestig514
 

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Stig514, I would advise that you stay away from chipboard and use MDF. Mdf gives a much cleaner slot whereas chipboard will 'splinter' and leave scruffy edges making it harder to put the tape down. I always make my own 'sandtex' with left over childrens sand pit sand. It's much finer than builders sand. I apply with a roller and only go over each part of the track once. I then cover it household emulsion. I have built 5 tracks in total and had no problems with this method.
I did learn the 'go over once' from the first time, it makes the track a tyre eater, but is easily sorted with a quick sand down.
 

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QUOTE (AAWSCC @ 14 May 2011, 11:33) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Stig514, I would advise that you stay away from chipboard and use MDF. Mdf gives a much cleaner slot whereas chipboard will 'splinter' and leave scruffy edges making it harder to put the tape down. I always make my own 'sandtex' with left over childrens sand pit sand. It's much finer than builders sand. I apply with a roller and only go over each part of the track once. I then cover it household emulsion. I have built 5 tracks in total and had no problems with this method.
I did learn the 'go over once' from the first time, it makes the track a tyre eater, but is easily sorted with a quick sand down.

Thanks!

I have made a track with MDF, but I heard they have dangerous chemicals... Plus, I thought that there were no huge downsides to chipboard.


Looks like Acrylic Amulsion is the way to go. I presume you mix the sand in with the amulsion?

Thanks again,
thestig514
 

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Standard polyfilla will do. don't forget to sand it down.

Mdf does contain arsenic, so make sure you use a mask.
If you are making your own 'sandtex' then try a few different strengths on test pieces first. Any painrt will do. So Emulsion is fine.
 
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