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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's a 174ft club track, just like those in England.
There are no other cars to look at as we do not have them in this country that is why I am asking these questions.
I am going to import some so I will require something that does go well, other wise they will collect dust.
 

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Hi Trophy.
Big question! If you've just joined a local club then observe what the winners are using, If it's for home use then most makes go well on wood, it's just a case of getting the rear tyre combination right. ProSlots are great straight out of the box but I am lead to believe they may be hard to get now? If the track has banked or cambered corners anywhere you may be forced to use cars that have floating front axles. Some guys call these 'Tripods' , as a fixed front axle (no up-down movement) will cause the guides to lift up in the cambered bends and increase the likelyhood of deslotting.
For a home wood track, SCX 4wd Rally cars with Fly 10 tooth pinnions fitted are superb.

Wixwacing
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
As I said in a previous post we do not race these cars here New Zealand.
I race cars at clubs for about 5 years now, Parma int 32, flexi kars, gr12 ES etc.
This is a new class that we are looking at promoting.
I see you mention the PS machines, I have heard they are fast, it's been via the grape vine and not from the horses mouth.
Can the rear wheels be chaned easily like the grub screwed Sloit cars, or do you just change the tyres.
I know nothing about this type of car, yet.
Cheers.
 

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Hi Trophy,
What you are racing is a big step away from some of the more commercial models available, These cars have motors that vary from 17,000 to 30,000 rpm. You are probably using high reving motors, 5 ohm or less controllers and may be using tyre additives etc. If you want to use some of the more commercial offerings as an extra class you may have to rethink your approach to this class.
ProSlot make good cars especially with the evo 4 motors. Fly have their own specials but they are still a long way, performance wise, from the classes you run. These cars are more suited to shorter cicuits with shorter straights. On a large circuit they will rev out halfway down the straight. My view is that if you are going to modify them to suit, save your money. It would be best to carry on with what you have.
If on the other hand, you are looking specifically for some of the more commercial box standard offerings for a new class, there are Several top slotcar retailers in Aus. with first class web sites.

Wixwacing
 

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I am are talking about club racing not commercial.
From what you say about the ProSlot I assume they are the better all round car than the Fly or Slotit cars on the smaller tight table top tracks.
Getting back to the rear wheels do you change just the tyres or complete rim & tyre.
 

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This thread sounds familiar!
I am no expert on running these kinds of cars on timber tracks but one thing for certain is the performance difference between the makes is not always down to better chassis/motors but most often than not it's the amount of grip the tyres offer from one make to the other.
We do run these scale cars at NLondon from time to time and by fitting Ortmann tyre [even without trueing] made a considerable difference to almost all the cars they were fitted to. This made some of the lesser competetive cars nearly as good as the ones mentioned here and at that point motor performance became the factor. What can be competitive depends on what rules are applied at the club concerned, some clubs specify original parts only, in this case you are probably down to a choice of a few cars only.
[oneofwos]
 

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Proslot wheels . . .
I am no expert but I have a couple of Proslot cars.
The wheels are the usual press on plastic type and it is pot luck whether they are good, bad or indifferent. I have to say that my few seem to be perfectly OK.
Changing to set screw metal wheels has to be a good thing for any car though.

Again, not speaking from an expert point of view, Proslot, together with Slot.it, seem to be generally considered 'the best' for high speed routed track racing without magnetic assistance, although Proslot have a reputation for variable quality control and their cars quite often need some initial attention for badly made or badly fitted parts.

Conversely, Slot.it enjoy a reputation for very high quality, yet both makes are well thought of!

As you are in New Zealand, I would suggest contacting one of our members, Zippity, who is based in Wellington and has a wealth of racing experience there - you may already know him. Zip hasn't posted much to date, shy retiring guy that he is (!), but here is a link to one of his posts and you can Email him from there via the forum.
Zippity Post
 

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I have to agree with Bob....... the Solt-it Audi and soon to be relaesed Porsches and the Fly "racing" Porsche GT1 are fery good on routed tracks.... And with a little work most any RTR will work well on the routed tracks..

Are you looking at a box stock class?? I found that I had to change the rear tires on both cars to sponge tires to work best on my track... and a little weight had to be added too..... The only other thing that really should be done for a routed track is to use a deeper guide..... Slot-it makes a very good deep routed track guide that is a direct drop in replacement for most (but not all) RTR cars. And TSRF also has a good deep guide......

The other option is the TSRF chassis.... http://www.tsrfcars.com/ These are nice little chassis that will fit a number of the RTR bodies...... And they are the next best thing to scratch built chassis......

There is another new chassis that just came out too... http://www.slotcarheroes.com/132/132Page1.asp

I have not tried this chassis but the reviews I have seen have been very good...

And there is nothing wrong with slicing and dicing a Int.32 chassis to meet your needs too....... But that is for the little bit more advanced racers....

Chris
 

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Thanks for all the reply's I am starting to get a picture now of what's what.
There are 16 Fly porsche cars, can you supply a part number please.
We are looking to modify them, change wheels, add lead etc, to get them running at their optimum.
I see the TSRF has surfaced as a contender, from what I can see on the net it looks good, if it is next best to a scratch built chassis is this the one that would be better than Fly's etc.
Cheers.
 

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The TSRF chassis is excellent!
VERY fast, very strong and very stable.
Likely to be better than anything else mentioned to date.
However, the current motor needs at least 1.5 and up to 3 amps per car to release its full potential and this will need to be allowed for in supplying the circuit.
Tyres need to be carefully chosen for the running surface and the best place to get full information is at the TSRF site.
 

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The TSRF chassis is excellent!
VERY fast, very strong and very stable.
Likely to be better than anything else mentioned to date.
However, the current motor needs at least 1.5 and up to 3 amps per car to release its full potential and this will need to be allowed for in supplying the circuit.
Tyres need to be carefully chosen for the running surface and the best place to get full information on this is at the TSRF site

Spend some time on that site - it is FULL of useful information!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Are there any hard bodies like the Fly, Ninco Slotit that will screw on to the TSRF chassis.
These types of bodies are very nice and more appealing than the vaced pc bodies.
 
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