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Has anyone chipped a Scalextric car with the Oxigen chip to work with oXigen Pure??

I just wonder because here below is an old photo of my earlier collection of LeMans style cars which is now bigger and I would like to keep them for the Oxigen system.

I know they won't be as competitive as the SLOT.IT cars but I would hate to not use them. I shall use the O2 Chrono software to give the SLOT.IT a little less power to balance the cars out.

Anyway, back to my question, has anyone done this yet?
Also wondering about the unipolar 'Hall' sensor. Is there plenty of room in the Scalextric car AUDI R10 for that? (I just got a couple of Oxigen O201a chips this morning in the post to test so I was just wondering)

I have read this helpful page http://www.slot.it/Download/oXigen/Manuals...iptionO2.en.pdf in case you were wondering.
 

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hey chip, did I tell you you lemans video is what made me pull the trigger on SSD a few years back? You Lemans car are beautify.
I have been thinking the same about "cheaper cars" when compared to NSR , slot.it just to be able to host some racing with friends. I really dont see why you would not be able to chip these.

I am going to start trying to chip an NSR tonight. I think its just like chipping non SSD cars with the F1 or sallon chip. You just have to think outside the box. I know the smaller decoder will make things easier but we have to wait.

BTW, how many controllers do you have for O2?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
QUOTE (Profoxcg @ 26 Apr 2012, 22:01) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>hey chip, did I tell you you lemans video is what made me pull the trigger on SSD a few years back? You Lemans car are beautify.
I have been thinking the same about "cheaper cars" when compared to NSR , slot.it just to be able to host some racing with friends. I really dont see why you would not be able to chip these.

I am going to start trying to chip an NSR tonight. I think its just like chipping non SSD cars with the F1 or sallon chip. You just have to think outside the box. I know the smaller decoder will make things easier but we have to wait.

BTW, how many controllers do you have for O2?

Oh wow, I'm now very proud of my little LeMans video if it helped you decide to upgrade to SSD.
Hopefully I shall make another video in a few months from now to get people to buy the oXigen system


Anyway, earlier today on my day off from work, I chipped my very first Slot.It car ever.

I don't know yet if I did it right because I can't test it yet (no track and little time).

The Slot.It chip fits perfectly in their cars but I still managed to make it look like a cowboy job.

After that I opened up my Endurance Scalextric Spyder to have a proper look and it looks as if the slot.it chip I've got (O201a) is a little too big. I tried thinking out of the box like you said and figured if I cut off the legs and part of the car interior, I might just be able to fit it in. Still unsure about that though. I have to decide if I shall risk it.
And I'm worried that I won't be able to run certain cars on my future investment of using oXigen.
Especially my F1 and A1 cars.

Maybe I shall sell these A1 cars to help me finance my jump to oXigen... 3 of them are quite rare.... hopefully Slot.It will make small chips like the SSD F1 chip I dunno... I did read smewhere that they might, maybe I dreamt it. And if they did, it could be many months from now.
 

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I can't tell for SURE from your image, Chip, but it looks a lot like you have too many wires. It's usually best to remove the old lead wires when installing the slot.it chips, which come with full lead wires as needed. You really should need only to remove the original leads, insert the braid leads into the guide, and solder the new motor wires (the ferrite man, that is) to the motor (after desoldering the old wires from it). The only extra thing needed for the oXigen chip is securing the hall effect sensor in the appropriate location and orientation. Did your chip come with the special plastic holder for the hall sensor? The holder should make the process as simply as gluing it down in the right place.
 

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QUOTE (Chip of FDSC @ 26 Apr 2012, 22:45) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Anyway, earlier today on my day off from work, I chipped my very first Slot.It car ever.

I don't know yet if I did it right because I can't test it yet (no track and little time).

As Mr F says, looks ok. Perhaps this is just a lash up to test if it works, but if you don't own one buy a soldering iron and get rid of the surplus wire and nasty joins on the motor wires.


Cant see the start / pit sensor very well , but looks ok, you may have to tweek the angle if you get false laps.

Only thing I don't like, but not much you can do about it, is the proximity of the aerial to the motor.

Rich
 

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Your cars look great but I would purchase a Slotit car so you can see the difference between them both.here in NZ they are the same price but you can do so much more with a Slotit car.I started the change when I upgraded to the 6 car power base with PB Pro and have not looked back.I can change the motors from a 21k to a 29k plus pinions crown wheels plus the pod.I am now running all of my cars with a 29k motor and a sidewinder pod with a 6.5 10 tooth pinion and a 18m crown wheel 36 tooth.My track is 34 m long and I am achieving approx 5.7 secs per lap.Try it and see the difference
 

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QUOTE (MrFlippant @ 27 Apr 2012, 02:16) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I can't tell for SURE from your image, Chip, but it looks a lot like you have too many wires. It's usually best to remove the old lead wires when installing the slot.it chips, which come with full lead wires as needed. You really should need only to remove the original leads, insert the braid leads into the guide, and solder the new motor wires (the ferrite man, that is) to the motor (after desoldering the old wires from it). The only extra thing needed for the oXigen chip is securing the hall effect sensor in the appropriate location and orientation. Did your chip come with the special plastic holder for the hall sensor? The holder should make the process as simply as gluing it down in the right place.

QUOTE (RichG @ 27 Apr 2012, 06:29) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>As Mr F says, looks ok. Perhaps this is just a lash up to test if it works, but if you don't own one buy a soldering iron and get rid of the surplus wire and nasty joins on the motor wires.


Cant see the start / pit sensor very well , but looks ok, you may have to tweek the angle if you get false laps.

Only thing I don't like, but not much you can do about it, is the proximity of the aerial to the motor.

Rich

Here is a slightly better photo. I made sure the hall sensor is at 45 degrees. Maybe from what I see in the photo, it's not 100% in line with the car though but that is easily adjusted. My only problem is that one of the screws which holds the car together is not screwing on properly. Miniscule drop of superglue has helped but I'm not happy.


QUOTE (Miminut @ 27 Apr 2012, 08:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Your cars look great but I would purchase a Slotit car so you can see the difference between them both.here in NZ they are the same price but you can do so much more with a Slotit car.I started the change when I upgraded to the 6 car power base with PB Pro and have not looked back.I can change the motors from a 21k to a 29k plus pinions crown wheels plus the pod.I am now running all of my cars with a 29k motor and a sidewinder pod with a 6.5 10 tooth pinion and a 18m crown wheel 36 tooth.My track is 34 m long and I am achieving approx 5.7 secs per lap.Try it and see the difference

I may get a whole bunch of Slot.It cars to replace my Scalextric collection and I doubt I shall upgrade them all as I want the lap times to be as long as possible, no magnets either and trying to keep my costs down. I shall try to keep all cars balanced for racing also (which is near impossible). Before each big race, cars will be randomly allocated to each driver, so if you have a dud car, you have to live with it.


I shall keep you guys informed when I get a chance to test the system. I've got my dongle, the software looks great but I'm still waiting to complete my 1st SCP-1 1.1 controller.

Thanks for tips and advice, I always appreciate every bit of help
 

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QUOTE (Chip of FDSC @ 27 Apr 2012, 14:52) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>..I may get a whole bunch of Slot.It cars to replace my Scalextric collection ....

Hello Chip

I would see no reason for you to do such a thing, true Scalex cars without their magnet are in a different league performance wise than Slot.it/ NSR etc etc...
But if you race scalex against each other....speed is relative


And don't forget that the O2 RMS has the ability to limit the amount of power for each individual Car/chip so you could work out a "balance of performance" for each car/class/ type

Last but not least, a trip to a well sorted electronics shop would be a big budget help. get hold of some tiny connectors and solder those to your motors.
This way swapping a chip from one car to an other will be an easy plug and play, no need to buy chip's for each and every car in your collection.

Note: For most of your LMP cars it will be neccesary to raise the floor of the cockpit, and with some you might need to remove (dremel) some material form the body directly above the large capacitator.

with kind regards
Tamar
 

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Hey Chip,

I had to time today to try to do the following:



NSR audi with O2 decoder. I have not tested the car yet, but it should work !! In this case I had to remove the interior, but its not big deal as you cannot really see it to start with.
 

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hey profoxcg

Good to see you finally got round to chip your NSR Audi, looked at your pictures and remembered this post by maurizio in the "oxigen in the wild" thread.

QUOTE (Slot.it @ 26 Jan 2012, 17:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Tamar, as a physical reference for the 'type a' O2 chip O201a, you may use the SSD chip SP12 - same LED position, but bigger (O2) capacitor.
If possible keep the LED flush with bottom of chassis, but if this turns out to be impossible, make a wider hole so that the cone of the IR light is not obscured by the walls surrounding the recessed LED. I'm not able to give you a number - keep it as low as possible.
As for positioning, either put it where it is supposed to be (like in the pictures you posted) or turn it 180°. It's better to keep the LED near the pickup.
Do not exceed 35mm between pivot and LED.

Looks like your led might be over that limit?

with kind regards
Tamar
 

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I had not seen that thread / post but I did notice that the LED is the middle of the car. However I did put the car on the piece of ninco track and it seems that I could have enough time to let the solenoid do its job and change lanes. I will have to test this. Now the second option which I do not oppose to is to solder and LED on leads... I just don't know what kind of LED and where I would solder it to.

I think this is a consideration slot.it needs to make if the want their system to be truly "universal". I read somewhere they were going provide this functionality, I just don't know where.
 

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Well did a quick test of lap counting and power to make sure everything works and it does.
Unfortunately I wont be able to test the LC until this weekend or later this week.

Here is a quick vid.


I am thinking of getting a scalextric LMP tomorrow to see if I can fit a chip in it - or I can try with an avant slot LMP. (I only have 3 chips for now)
 

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Hey Profoxcg
Well ...memory can play tricks with your mind, you even posted in that same thread questioning if anybody chipped NSR's and if there would be an "extended led" version of the O2 chip


QUOTE (Profoxcg @ 8 Mar 2012, 05:24) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I was just wondering if anyone has any pictures of an install of the o2 chip inside one of the new NSR cars (drop guide models)
I am wondering how difficult it would it be to install a LED on fly leads to a chip (type a) on one of these cars while the type B chips are made.

There were several NSR cars running in the Oxigen 24hrs, so positioning and operating the chip/ LC was no problem.....but I do have to note that these were all shorter GT's (1 Porsche 997 and 2 Corvettes).
So these could have been within that 35mm range due to their shorter guide <> rearaxle distance.
But unless my eyes decieve me...on your NSR R18 its clearly...not.

So if you test this weekend and it does not work, try rotating the chip 180°, you wil need to extend some of the lead wires, and while your at it...resolder the Ferrite block/tentalium capacitor over the + - of the motor.... it is there for a good reason


Actually I wanted to ask Maurizio about some more clarification on this "max 35mm distance" as well
I assume it is related to the physical distance between position of the LC signal reciever and the LC flipper, but I still do not know if this is "just" the physical distance, or the physical distance "plus" some extra reaction time for cars approaching the LC at speed. So Maurizio...if you're reading....


With kind regards
Tamar
 

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yeah I don't think I ever for an answer for the led on fly leads.

I did a quick measurement and from the guides pivot to the center of where the LED is there is 52mm. So I am 20mm out of spec.
I don't see a problem if it works. But as you mentioned, if it doesn't then I now know why. Thanks for sharing that info.
 

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I suspect thast the 35mm recommendation has nothing to do with the relationship of the LC receiver & flipper, but merely that the larger the distance the greater the risk that the signal is missed if the car is not in a perfectly straight line?

Rich
 

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Hi.
35mm has to do with the fact that the farther away from the blade, the less time you will have before the LC switches open, thus at faster speed you get more LC misses.
Beware - keep the Hall sensor clear of any power wires. I've lerned that the hard way ini Gaydon

Regards
Maurizio
 
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