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Wouldn't that mean that the car is registered twice each lap ?
No it wouldnt, the way the track sensor is configured it simply wont detect the shurechange positioned LED signal at all. If anyone is interested I can explain why. So two LEDs is not a problem for the F/L. Meanwhile, the lane changers will see both LEDs but that is not a problem for them.

Should... be perfectly fine... only challenge as you point out is getting both LEDs to function at the same time... I have 100% no doubt this is fixable... that said I really appreciate your highlighting the issue of how to get both LEDs functioning :)

C
 

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No it wouldnt, the way the track sensor is configured it simply wont detect the shurechange positioned LED signal at all. If anyone is interested I can explain why. So two LEDs is not a problem for the F/L. Meanwhile, the lane changers will see both LEDs but that is not a problem for them.

Should... be perfectly fine... only challenge as you point out is getting both LEDs to function at the same time... I have 100% no doubt this is fixable... that said I really appreciate your highlighting the issue of how to get both LEDs functioning :)

C
The same car run on a traditional APB setup would register twice if somehow you got both LEDs working - so if there's any chance you'd run the car on any track other than an ARC-Pro track then 2 working LEDs would be a problem.

Std config for remote IR LEDs is that they disable onboard LED to prevent the double registration on C7042 finish line
 

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Yes, the double LED configuration is likely to give problems with APB (although I have never tried it). However, forgive me if I am wrong, but I thought the interest here was in addressing the question as to whether sure change equipped cars can be made to function with the ARC PRO... if so, the double LED approach may be a useful solution for some users... I guess it all depends what compatibility is being sought...

C
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
if there's any chance you'd run the car on any track other than an ARC-Pro track then 2 working LEDs would be a problem.
I only run analogue or ARC Pro at home so for me that wouldn't be an issue.

The onboard could be covered with a small tab of masking tape if I wanted to run on SSD.

At the end of the day I don't "need" to run with a surechange guide, but it'd be nice to get it working with ARC Pro.
 

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Yes, the double LED configuration is likely to give problems with APB (although I have never tried it). However, forgive me if I am wrong, but I thought the interest here was in addressing the question as to whether sure change equipped cars can be made to function with the ARC PRO... if so, the double LED approach may be a useful solution for some users... I guess it all depends what compatibility is being sought...

C
I understand and appreciate what you are saying and agree that 2 working LEDs would allow SureChange ARC-Pro compatibility but I only wanted to make it clear to anyone that such a setup would ONLY be ARC-Pro compatible and cross platform compatibility is a somewhat more complex issue.
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- and I'd imagine getting both LEDs working isn't a simple matter either.
 

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Thanks Twigman - agreed and I appreciate your caution around solving one compatibility issue only to create another compatibility issue elsewhere...

Meanwhile, later in the spring I will be looking at a smarter sensor configuration for the ARC PRO (not top of my to-do list at present) but when it does get to the top... I will ensure compatibility with sure change guides is part of the spec...

C
 

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I assume an IR LED mounredbin front of the guide blade is an issue because the ARC PRO reads both blade and LED. If it reads in sequence then turning the power base around will solve it surely?

If your APB is updated to firmware 1.9 then it ignores the blade sensor and lap counting reliability increases - maybe the ARC PRO firmware needs the same treatment?
 

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I assume an IR LED mounredbin front of the guide blade is an issue because the ARC PRO reads both blade and LED. If it reads in sequence then turning the power base around will solve it surely?
If your APB is updated to firmware 1.9 then it ignores the blade sensor and lap counting reliability increases - maybe the ARC PRO firmware needs the same treatment?
It looks like the ARC PRO sensor circuit is a bit different from the APB sensor circuit... the signals from the ID sensor and the blade detect sensor are combined on the sensor pcb for the ARC PRO... so separating the two would involve a hardware change. I dont believe a firmware upgrade to access only the ID sensor (as was the case with the APB) would be possible for the ARC PRO.

From a technical point of view the ARC PRO pcb combines the ID signal with the blade detect signal in such a manner that the blade signal gates the ID signal... unless both ID and blade sensors are activated at the SAME time nothing gets through to the main microprocessor within the P/B.

I too thought that running surechange blades in the opposite direction might solve the problem... but that does not appear to be the case... i assume this is because the microcontroller also requires a particular edge trigger event which is not replicated in the reverse direction.

All interesting stuff...

C
 

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As the blade sensor "gates" the IR sensor then could the blade "gate" be permanently opened by bypassing the blade sensor?
 

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Nice work on the chipping, Martin ...... :thumbsup: .... have you thought about adding post #15, in it's entirety, to the Scalextric Chipping Database so that others may benefit from it?

Maybe a Mod can assist here??
 
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Looking good Martin.
Im waiting to see how the lights turn out, I like Lights.
Any thoughts of a ferrite man on the front, from guide to chip?
Some install them and some don't.

Shad
I'm waiting for ferrites to arrive.
The car runs fine as is but I can't see any harm in having two.
I'll probably try one car with and one car without for a side by side comparison.
 

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Ferrite men filter electrical noise. The 103 cap is a crude high level filter and the binocular core also removes spikes.

Between the chip and the motor they remove motor noise. Between the guide and chip they remove noise from the track (spikes caused by braids arcing, cars crashing etc.)

The ferrite man can be anywhere along the wiring and it doesnt matter which side of the binocular core you choose to site the orange cap.

The standard chip will handle more powerful motors but it is current that kills chips. A motor draws most current from a standing start - so if you try to push through a crash or run magnets on a powerful motor it causes maximum current draw and fries the chip. A slot.it orange can or Flat6 is fine IF you avoid near-stall-full-throttle situations.

An upgraded chip will take anything a Flat6 with traction magnets can throw at it.
 

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Some of the goodies required have arrived so...

The ferrite man on the motor has been insulated for peace of mind and I added a second ferrite man to the pickups.

I've also fitted the SureChange guide but won't be using it to locate the IR LED for the moment.

39965854105_47816e7d6f_n.jpg
2018-03-17 14.26.24
by Martin Fay, on Flickr

The Martini now has an evil twin brother.

26989709168_a8d3a76a69_c.jpg
Terrible Twins
by Martin Fay, on Flickr

Since my ARC Pro powerbase is winging its way back to Hornby my daughter (5) and I have been wazzing these about on a bog stock analogue starter set figure-8 and they're an absolute hoot. If I run magless and she has the magnets fitted daddy can have a bit of fun too!
cool.png


SWMBO has decided that she likes the Italian one so I may just have to invest in a third so that we have one each.

I have the LEDs to start fitting lights but still need to pick up some wee connectors and diodes to wire them up.

I was also thinking that I might fit a different coloured LED inside each one so that it's easier to tell them apart in low light.

Red, Green and Blue would be easy to do. Thoughts?
 
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