Interesting stuff, but surely having the chassis made from the circuit board is a bad idea? One reasonable crash and I reckon you can wave goodbye to the car working (or at least the lights at any rate!)
A Rough Guide!
Note: Chassis is allegedly "Break proof"!
Headlight: white xenon LED's 3mm brightens 2
Tail lamps: red LED's 3mm brightens 2
Brake lights: red LED's 3mm brightens 2
LED combinations in the back: by miniatur-Schalter adjustable
GoldCap: 0.22 Farad
Image retention: > 1 minute
Brightness control red LED for tail lamps LED over potentiometers
Web tension: 9 V of DC up to 20 V of DC
Power input with engine: 280 mA nominally (300 mA max.)
Chassis external dimensions: 116 mm x 50 mm (yardstick 1:32)
Chassis base material: Epoxy resin - highly consolidates/break-proof
Axles: 2.48 x 53.5 mm steel
Axle mounting plate: Flexi plastic angle (in front and in the back)
Axle storage: In front: Drilling/in the back: Brass socket
Rims: Plastic rims: Spreads 8/10mm D 15mm
Tire: Rubber Slick: Spreads 11,5mm D 20,5mm
Wheel base: steplessly adjustably: 72 - 84 mm
Body owner: steplessly adjustably: 47 - 59 mm
Motor: Xts-4 (25000 RPM/250 mA) 15 V
Ue bersetzung: 9 Z to 27 Z INLINER CAN drive
Guidance keel: Feather/spring guidance keel
Magnet: 8mm JACKET lp MAGNET also narrow point magnetic field
Weight with motor: 76 gram completely
Other: CE marking
Mark circiut board is a good medium to start scratch building in ,it can be easily cut and soldered ,in the past I have built many cars with it including 1/24 grp12 and they are an awfull lot faster than the averidge scalex car .Upside you can solder with a low watt iron ,you get a light car ,down side too much heat and the copper will seperate .Give it a try it works.
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