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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, so to follow on from my previous thread:

Click here

I've now decided that I'm going to stop being a cheapskate & go digital.
I think the contributing factor was seeing my little boys face when he saw the rather large digi layout @ Stratford City, Westfield.


So, after selling almost all of the analogue cars & and quite a bit of the track to fund the digi stuff, I have ended up with:

Drift set (brand new - analogue)
Digital Race Line Set (the one with the Jaguars)
Digital Platinum Set (without the 6 car PB & cars) only the 2 Porsches included.

Currently gunning for a Triple Cup Set on the auction site, so will add that too. Plan to set it all up in the loft once all the work is complete:


Need some advice with regards to track layout, space isn't much of an issue as there will be 2 very large rooms.
 

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Greg Gaub
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Well, I'm not sure I would have bought the sets you did, and certainly not yet another set with a 4 car base, UNLESS you're getting them for REALLY good prices on ebay or something.
You need to stop buying sets and focus on getting the C7042 Advanced 6 car Power Base. You're wasting money on anything else before getting that. Seriously.

Looks like the loft will be a great place for a track. Don't make the mistake of putting it on the floor, though. Get a table for the track as soon as the loft work itself is done.
 

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Living the Life!
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If the 4PB comes with a transformer then you have a bargain as these are exactly the ones you want for the C7042 APB ....


You probably already know that analogue cars can be fitted with digital chips so you might want to keep your favourite ones; the C7005 chip is the easiest one to work with as it is quite small.

Have a browse through the Tracks & Scenery section as there are loads of tracks to explore. Maybe have two or more tracks as your young lad will love the mayhem of a small drift track to hone his driving skills and the 4PB will be absolutely fine for that. Place loads of old tyres on the track to knock over, even small boxes made of light cardboard ...... get him to make them and go nuts.
 

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I get what you're saying, but after selling the analogue stuff (made a small profit)
these sets cost me about £210 in total, The sets are in mint condition, that can't be bad can it? I will sell off the 4 car PBs (may keep 1)& use the power supplies with the APB.

Buying up used sets is the cheapest way for me to get some digi track & digi cars. I think I have enough track now to start adding different types of curves.

Man, those pit lane parts are expensive!!!
 

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There is a piece of track that most baulk at because you only get two small pieces in the packet and that is C8278 - the 22.50 Rad 1 corner. It is incredibly useful in making a corner that is quite different and often gets a track to meet at both ends is used carefully.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Could someone here help me design a track layout that incorporates my existing track along with some new curves etc.

am initially thinking of an 8 x 6 layout.

Track stock:

C8205 (x30) - Standard Straight 350mm
C8206 (x39) - Radius 2 Curve 45°
C8207 (x6) - Half Straight 175mm
C8203 (x2) - Radius 2 Racing Curve Crossover 90°
C8295 (x1) - Elevated Cross Over
C7036 (x4) - Straight Lane Change Digital Track
C8210 (x1) - Straight Crossover
C7039 (x1) - Digital Lap Counter

Lots of boarders & barriers.

all help & ideas appreciated.
 

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Hi,

Can't really help with a layout, I searched the internet for custom layouts and got a few ideas from there.

Like you I'm just entering the world and trying to get a digital layout for £250!! with a good few twist and turns on a 8 by 4 board. After some thoughts (and an initial post here about it) I decided to base it around the 6 APB.

I think we might be both gunning for the same stuff on eBay though!!! I need a digital set to get me the changover, controllers, cars and an oval and keep missing out as they go over my budget at the very last second (I must be too tight!!!!)
 

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Living the Life!
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This diagram shows many ways of making right angle bends and loops avoiding the obvious curves made up of the same track pieces:
View attachment 10438
The idea for this type of construction came from Ember and Hankscorpio.

The design of a track will depend very much on your driving style. As your style and experience changes then you will probably find that your track will also start to evolve with you. Just layout a track and see which bits of it you like and dislike and go from there. If you have access to a photocopier, you could make copies of your track and use them to quickly plan what will fit into the space you have. Once you get going and post a few photos, it will be much easier for us to offer advice ........
 

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Hi sid
not bad start but I would move or put another cross over xlc or clc
nearer the entry to your pits as at mo you have got to change lanes from red
to green lane at top of pic to get into the pits
kind regards ade.
 

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I see what you mean.

did a quick re-shuffle:



Now my problem is keeping track of the lap count. I've got a digi lap counter, but how will that work for the pit lane?

I am planning on getting the APB, but will that solve my lap count issue?

By the way, it's a 13 x 7 board, not 13 x 4 as previously stated
 

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Ting Tong
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Hi
If you are planning to use ssdc or another type of race management then you can set them to add a lap on exit or not.

So this means you can place the powerbase and pit entry and exit where ever you like.

As for your track design it looks very similar to my very first attempt and from experience to many parallel straights make for a track that can be mastered very easily.

The best tracks make use of a mix of differing radii bends.
 

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In all cases It is better, more reliable to have your powerbase or lap counter at the end of a straight. If not possible, when you use a race management system with the APB, you can get them to count a lap when in the pitlane. Note that if you dont use a RMS, you still have the same problem. So if possible, I would advice you to put pit exit before lap counter/powerbase.
 

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Greg Gaub
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Intelligent layout design

What is there to designing a layout for SSD? More than you might think. There is one rule of thumb that has served SSD users well. It is based not only on fun racing, but also how the technology works and what enables the highest degree of reliability. All sensor tracks (lane change sensors, lap counters, etc) should be at the end of a straight, just before a turn, and NOT LESS than one standard straight after a turn. It is important to understand why, though. Here are a few reasons.

A car that is coming out of a corner fast, whether it has magnets or not, can often have it's tail out in a drift. If this happens while the car passes a sensor, then the LED under the car that tells the track what to do will not be seen by the sensor in the track, and therefore the command will be missed. This can mean missed or accidental lane changing, or worse, missed laps! Don't put sensor tracks at the beginning of a straight, or in the middle of a sequence of turns.

A car that is accelerating or is moving at high speed can deslot on a lane changer. For example, in a long straightaway, as everyone enjoys when they can set one up, if a car were to try and change lanes in the middle when it was going full speed, the sudden shift to one side would be like hitting a tight turn too fast, and the car will come out of the slot and crash. Putting the lane changers at the end of a straight means that the car is already slowing down for the upcoming turn and taking the lane change will be no problem.

An accelerating car, or one at high speed, will actually have the nose up a little, and the guide will be slightly up in the slot. The lap counting tracks, such as the Digital Lap Counter or the 6 Car Powerbase, use a guide blade sensor as part of the counting system. If the blade is not nice and deep in the slot, and it doesn't properly cut the sensor beam, the lap will be missed. If the sensor track is placed in a braking zone, such as at the end of a long straight, or right before a tight turn (or both!), then the car will be slowing down, driving the guide as deeply into the slot as it can go, ensuring a reliable count when crossing the blade sensor. Replacing guide blades with deeper ones can also help this issue, but that can be expensive and time consuming. It's better to design your layout with this in consideration to avoid problems from the start. Although this is less important for the APB with the latest code (which uses only the car ID for lap counting), it's still a good rule of thumb.

Finally, it makes good racing. The vast majority of overtaking/passing maneuvers in racing take place in the corners, where one driver takes a risk and brakes a little later, or cuts the corner a little sharper, or even takes the outside lane at the risk of losing the edge. Putting your lane changers in these prime overtaking locations makes for more realistic racing.
 

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