There really isnt any secret "zen" to tuning magnet cars.
Make the car as light as is possible within the rules. Remove everything possible to save weight.
Buy 10 or 20 aftemarket traction magnets and find out which is the strongest. Fit these to the car. The further back the mag is mounted the more traction it will develop.
If the rules say that the front wheels must touch the track then elongate the holes in the chassis upwards so that the tyres/wheels can move upwards. You do not want the front of the car supported by the tyres. It must be supported by the guide. In mag racing the front tyres are for cosmetic purposes only. Coat the tyres in your wife's nail polish or coat them in super glue. The front tyres must NOT generate any grip!!
Lower the car as much as is possible so that the chassis sits as low as possible. This will increase the mag force. To do this fit the thinest braid you can find and make sure the front of the car is not supported by the front tyres as decribed above. Buff down of buy new smaller rims and tyres so that the rear end is as low as possible.
There is always one gun tyre compound that will work for a particular track surface. FIND OUT WHAT IT IS!! Be it silicon, NSR that is juiced up with 3 in 1 oil or WD40 or whatecer else is the secret potion that is used at the club.
An NC 2 pulling 18000 rpm???? Really??? What voltage are you using? Find out what the gun motor is and just use the same.
Do you have to run Ninco cars? If not choose a car that runs bar magnets
That should at least get you started. Just like real1:1 racing its going to cost you money to be competitive and just like 1:1 racing people will cheat to get an advantage. Errr sorry I meant people will be creative with their rule interpretation.
Cheers
Rick1776
Make the car as light as is possible within the rules. Remove everything possible to save weight.
Buy 10 or 20 aftemarket traction magnets and find out which is the strongest. Fit these to the car. The further back the mag is mounted the more traction it will develop.
If the rules say that the front wheels must touch the track then elongate the holes in the chassis upwards so that the tyres/wheels can move upwards. You do not want the front of the car supported by the tyres. It must be supported by the guide. In mag racing the front tyres are for cosmetic purposes only. Coat the tyres in your wife's nail polish or coat them in super glue. The front tyres must NOT generate any grip!!
Lower the car as much as is possible so that the chassis sits as low as possible. This will increase the mag force. To do this fit the thinest braid you can find and make sure the front of the car is not supported by the front tyres as decribed above. Buff down of buy new smaller rims and tyres so that the rear end is as low as possible.
There is always one gun tyre compound that will work for a particular track surface. FIND OUT WHAT IT IS!! Be it silicon, NSR that is juiced up with 3 in 1 oil or WD40 or whatecer else is the secret potion that is used at the club.
An NC 2 pulling 18000 rpm???? Really??? What voltage are you using? Find out what the gun motor is and just use the same.
Do you have to run Ninco cars? If not choose a car that runs bar magnets
That should at least get you started. Just like real1:1 racing its going to cost you money to be competitive and just like 1:1 racing people will cheat to get an advantage. Errr sorry I meant people will be creative with their rule interpretation.
Cheers
Rick1776
