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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

next year our club track will be digital and I am starting to think about prepping some of our existing older cars cars in readiness.

I am going to start with some old scaley Porsche 962c's - am happy with the soldering-in of the chips etc. but could do with half a dozen 'ferrite-men' can they be got ready to go? (i.e I just need to solder on!)

Best Regards,

Chris
 

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Greg Gaub
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The chips come with one ferrite man. If you only have the one, it's best to put it on the motor, especially for the F1 solder-in chip.
Some cars are fine without one on either end.
 

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Hi Chris,
The 962C will either need a stronger magnet or better tyres as the grip is much less on a Sport track for these old girls. PM me if you need any extra capacitors, no ferrites though.

All the best - Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cheers Greg,

We have run a Scaley 962c class at our club for longer than I can remember - we use stronger mags and ortmanns otherwise you're dead right - they are all over the place!

Big advantage of them for us is that they are dirt cheap to replace and practically indestructable!

Thanks for the offer Greg - I'll see how I get on, hoping to chip the first one this weekend.

Best Regards,

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Guys,

got the first one finished this weekend - bit of a fiddle (and there is plentyof room!) but hoping it works OK - nicked a ferrite chap off another motor. I'll post some pics up tomorrow if I get a couple of minutes.

Now waiting for my mate to drop round his digi set to test it!

Tell me - what is the purpose of the 'ferrite' bit? (As you can tell - not great at electronics!) I have plenty of capacitors from various old motors I can use.

Best Regards,

Chris
 

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Greg Gaub
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It's just electronic noise reduction. From the motor, it helps prevent that noise from interfering with chip performance. As this is always present, it's best to have one at the motor whenever possible.
At the braid end, it's to help filter out spikes from the braids crossing over dead spots and even bridging two adjacent rails during a lane change. This is less common, but can have an effect on the chip nonetheless, and so should be put in place if you have one to put there, or if the car seems to have a tendency to stop dead for no apparent reason, lose its ID, or go off at full speed.
 

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Mr. F.
I am sure some will ask this next question...
Is it possible to make a ferrite man from raw components rather than rob another car? Seems simple enough if one can identify the part numbers.
Cheers!
 

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Greg Gaub
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Certainly. The hard part is getting a ferrite core as small as the one they use, and with two holes to keep the legs isolated. I think I remember someone finding a suitable replacement a while ago, but I didn't need any and so did not note the source or part number.
 

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Hi Porsche 904 - if you are not already aware of it; your might like to search SlotForum for Inox MX3 and acquaint yourself with its almost mystical properties - it makes a real difference to track conductivity and smoothness of digital running.

One application lasts months. I tend to treat my track every 6 weeks or so and it always runs smoothly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the help Guys -

Mr. F thanks for the explaination - I figured it was probobly something like that! Anyhow, put two on to be on the safe side!

Mr.Modifier - I have some of the magic juice and use it currently - absolutely amazing the effect it has had on the circuit. I tend to drop a bit on the braids before each race night as well - I find that helps too.

OK, here are a couple of images of my first attempt at a retro chip - untested until my mate brings his digi set round but I am hopeful! I had room to raise the chip off the pan on a couple of pieces of H section extrusion. I thought it might help with any heat issues? Wasn't really sure whether or not I could stick it on a blob of hot glue so played safe a bit!









This car is really a bit of a test piece in readiness for the batch of seven 962s that I need to get busy with.

Have just sprayed up a spare body (they will all be colour-coded in fantasy livery) and am now having a search for the best axle/hub/insert combos to make the things look a little more 'realistic' I'll post some images when the body is decorated.

Thanks for the help - comments appreciated,

Best Regards,

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, heres the finished article - it works - I'm going to crack on with the other six over the coming weeks!







Best Regards,

Chris
 

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Hi Chris,
Loving those 962Cs ........... where are you sourcing yours from as I can only find ridiculously pricey ones??
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi Greg,

thanks for the posiive comments.

These are old scaleys being given a makeover - you can get them as low as a tenner on epay and Ive had mint at twenty quid on there.

These days though, I find a good source are the various NSCC swapmeets up and down the country - again 15-20 is about the price and they 'scrub up' well enough! They go a treat too with a minimum of sorting.

I'm just applying some decals to another one I've done- I'll post it up when I get it finished off this weekend and I will be looking out for more at Gaydon.

Nice and cheap - easy to digitise and good runners - thats why I like themfor the club cars.

Best Regards,

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·


Hi Guys,

OK, so the club has bought a platignum set as the core for our permanent layout which will be assembled during our 'close season' from December to January.

Have had it out a couple of times to try and get to understand how it works well in advance, and (with the help of Mr. Flippants excellent instructional videos,) have managed to grasp a lot of it.

However - schoolboy error or just sheer dumbness - I set all the cars up as pace cars to race against to get a 'feel' for it.

Can't figure out how to 'un-pacecar' them! when I put another (different) car on the track, it is still randomly changing lanes!

Sure this is simple (but then so am I!)

Help Please!

Best Regards,

Chris
 

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Hi Chris
Do you mean just using the tower without any software on laptop?
I havnt use the tower for ages so I think all you have to do is plug in the controller
then your incharge again or you must be able to de select it by going though the pacer car settings
on APB .
hope this helps regards ade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·


Thanks Guys -

Just control tower for now - will be installing SSDC later - I'm just about to order it in.

now I have to say that that is what I thought too!

So what did I do?

Well, I set all the cars up as pace cars. Then I plugged controller 6 in to race against them all. Loads of fun! Howevr, I had set the pacers to random lane change (fine) but my 'plugged-in' car seemed to be randomly changing lanes too.

So,I took all the cars off and put another car to lane 6 solo (no problem there) except that it was changing lanes randomly too. Iwas puzzled by this so set lane 6 pacer to zero speed but still had the thing changing lanes without command!

Now I am new to this, so it may well be something silly at I have done, but I just can't figure it out - I'm going to have another 'test' tomorrow to see.

Thanks so far,

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·


Forgot to ask this - am I right in saying then that a car that has been set up as a pace car - once you plug back in, becomes totally independant from its pace car settings and becomes controllable in the usual way - i.e with the throttle?

Told you I was new to this didn't I!

Best Regards, and sorry for the daft questions!

Chris
 

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Greg Gaub
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It's supposed to, yes.
One thing to check is that the car is actually moving the flipper. Try setting a flipper manually to change lanes, and just push the car over it. If the flipper moves to straight, then the car should be working properly. If the flipper doesn't move no matter how many times you push the car over the sensor, then it's either the car LED, or the flipper sensor not working. If multiple cars have the same issue, then it's the sensor in the lane changer.
If you're confident that it's not a hardware problem, you could set the base back to defaults (it's in the same menu as Analog/Digital), then try again. It's possible there's a bug in the code yours has which is somehow forcing the pace car lane change setting to a car even when the controller is plugged in. I don't think I've seen anyone else mention such a problem, though.
 
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