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Bill Beggs
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1,947 Posts
I just like some of the old formula cars. I picked up this car. It does run on my wood track but not well. It appears to be missing a rear pin on the guide. There is a sort of J hook at the rear of the guide where a second pin may fit? Anyone confirm that? Without this the front steering gets all messed up.

The rear motor and axle is hinged at the front but the rear axle is riding on the body. Is there something missing?

What is proper voltage to run these at? I tried 11 but very slow.

Braids very stiff. Are replacements available or could I use new copper braid?

Thanks for any info you can give me.
 

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Mike Newns
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629 Posts
That's the complete guide - It's almost a peg guide arrangement. The hook is there (theoretically) for an electric band to center the steering. I don't see why you can't put better braid on it. I believe the motor was originally rated at 6 volts but runs OK at 12v. They don't go very fast.

Mike
 

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Jim Moyes
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5,002 Posts
QUOTE (Black3sr @ 26 Mar 2012, 16:45) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The rear motor and axle is hinged at the front but the rear axle is riding on the body. Is there something missing?

There should be a spring on that front hinge that gives a suspension effect. They are often missing though.

12 volt is the correct voltage.

And "not very fast" is the correct speed


Still fun to race like against like as long as you have strong runners.
 

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Bill Beggs
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1,947 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info.

Anyone know where I might buy this spring? Anyone alter these guides to work without the spring?

Have a look at the pic. You can see the rear axle rides on the body. Should there be some sort of stop to prevent this?

 

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Premium Member
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10,109 Posts
QUOTE (Mike Newns @ 26 Mar 2012, 15:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>That's the complete guide - It's almost a peg guide arrangement. The hook is there (theoretically) for an electric band to center the steering. I don't see why you can't put better braid on it. I believe the motor was originally rated at 6 volts but runs OK at 12v. They don't go very fast.

Mike
...elastic.. band, not electric! The elestic bands were small and basically made the wheels run straight until the pin hit a curve and then forced the wheels to turn a little.

They were always designed to run on 12V, if the motor is weak then it will be that the magnet has become demagnetized with time. Search on here and you will find some people still have magnet zappers to re-magnitise the motor.

The axle shouldn't run on the plastic. Is the pin at the magnet end of the motor clipped into its mounts correctly?

None of my FJs came with a spring and I've had them from new!
 

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Senior Slot Car Mechanic
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2,230 Posts
Nominal voltage for these cars is a standard 13.8v Wallwart, and, at that, they have modest performance. Putting slim magnets on the pole pieces helps, and, also helps them run cooler. If it runs slower, you have the magnet on the wrong way, just flip it over.

Yes, the little hooky thing is for a small elastic band. This steering unit is poorly designed, and, actually works backwards to the way it should.

Yes, there should be a spring on the front motor mount, to provide some "suspension" at the back of the car. They work fine without the spring, and, the body resting on the rear axle.

And, modern softer braid helps.

Overall, when setup right, they are huge fun to run.
 

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Premium Member
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8,227 Posts
The only (FJ type) cars which could utilise the elastic band were the c81 Cooper & the c82 Lotus 25. Both made in 1966 & 1967.
You don`t see many with the bands still intact, but here you go.



The old c72 BRM & c73 Porsche continued production into 1966 & 1967 as the c85 & c86. Along with some minor body modifications they got the same steering as the c81 & c82 (with the J clip). However a band wasn`t used as there was simply nowhere to hook an elastic band into the chassis.

None of my c67 Lotus cars have your type of steering with a hook fitted. Production of the c67 ceased in 1965. All of my c67 Lotus cars use the old type steering pictured below.



Motor spring?
All of my early FJ cars have one fitted. Not one of the later versions from 1966/67 do!



If you look at the above photo you can just about make out the difference in the steering.
The red c72 BRM is a pre 1966 model with no hook on the guide. It also has a motor spring.
You can just about make out the hook on the blue 1966/67 c72/85 car. Also no motor spring is fitted.
Makes no odds because there`s nowhere on the chassis to fix an elastic band.

Could simply be that the running gear on your car has been changed at a later date...happens a lot on FJ cars.

Cheers
Kev.
 

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Bill Beggs
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1,947 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I love this forum. I knew I would get some answers and help.

I have just tried mine at 11 V and it is really slow so will try Al's suggestioon and also look for someone to zap the magnet.

I see the spring now for suspension. Maybe just a small block above part of the motor would help to just get the body off the axle.

So without an elastic how does the front end track the slot properly? Right now mine wants to sort of crab off a turn.

One more question. I bought a figure 8 set back in 63/64. It had a shark nose Ferrari and a Lotus I believe. Any idea what the model numbers are for these cars. I would like to find them somewhere.

Al, have you had any success using your brackets and motor to make a chassis for these? If I can't get the lotus running this is what I am thinking of doing.
 

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Premium Member
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8,227 Posts
Just enjoy sloppy steering! Seriously , have you ensured that the steering unit is securely snapped into place? You do get loads of front end wobble on some FJs & they can look a bit awkward on the track. They also prefer Classic track.
Ring round specialist model railway shops in your area. At least one will have a magnet zapper.
You can buy replacement motor mags. However, they are powerful neodidium jobs & I wouldn`t recommend using them in an FJ motor.

C62 Ferrari Sharknose.

c54 Lotus (yellow number 10)

c63 1961 Lotus (blue (did not appear in any sets).

Cheers
Kev

 

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Premium Member
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1,300 Posts
A small elastic band can be fitted as shown. On this car, it actually does help a wee bit. Slip a band over the plastic clip, then snap the lower half of the body into place to secure it.

I found small elastic bands in the health & beauty aids section of the store, next to the bobby pins and barrettes and stuff like that.

These braids are solder wick. Soft and flexible, works fine.

 

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Bill Beggs
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1,947 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
More good info. Thanks guys.

I have replaced braids with Slot.It. To make the front follow the slot I added a small white piece of plastistruct(sp)to changed the guide to work like a flag vs pin. It is just added with Hot glue so easy to remove. It ran much better.

I then realized from the pics here my front tires are not stock and too tall. I had some off my G-Slot Honda Fit that are low profile and just small enough to fit. They almost doubled the guide depth in the slot. Let's see what we have for rears. Scaley Minis fit. Now the car is much lower.

At 13 volts it motors. It will hang the tail out a bit coming off the turns. My first laps when I got it were in 11-12 second range. Now down to around 6 - 6.5. Plenty fast enough. It is quite and quick. Fun!!

Now I need another one or two to play with it. So guys don't run up my Ebay bids -)

Again thanks for advice.

A couple more poor pics.



 

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Registered
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221 Posts
I used some dental teeth silicon bands (that my daughter had leftover after having braces on her teeth) on the steering of my fj's, they are small enough to keep some tension on the steering unit helping to stabilize the wobbly wheels.
Any further development of the original BRM?
 
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