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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello routers..

I have some problemo's, what router size slot thingy me jig do I want?
What wood shall I use? what surface I quite like poly, but chalkboard paint looks good too. I only want a single lane thing.

what do you use for power (I dont think Pendle's pro welding PS would be too suitable)

anything I need to know before I commence once I have everything together to start?

Cheers
Rob.
 

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Graham Windle
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5/32" router bits break less than 1/8" ,use 5/8" mdf for the track "The welding plant" has worked well for yrs but a 0-15 variable would be better for your needs ,like jims.Check CPC for Psu deals,and Id stick with the gloss paint its by far the best,
Graham
 

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Hi Rob,

There is only one advice to give here:

get Luf Linkerts video's at www.oldslotracer.com or contact him directly to get the necessary answers.

He uses a 3mm Carbide bit on 18mm thick MDF, as far as paint is concerned he advises to use a flat latex paint which allows you to run with standard tyres. Glossy paint mostly requires silicone tyres or other tricks to run well.

Yves
 

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Brian Ferguson
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Be sure you get a solid carbide, two-flute router bit. While it is true that a 5/32" bit will outlive a 1/8" or 3mm bit, the wider slot is not liked by some. A 1/8" bit should do your entire one laner with no problem. Just avoid overly fast feed rates - don't force the bit through the material - this generates excessive heat which destroys any cutting tool. It may sound odd, but it is also bad to feed too slowly - the bit remains in contact with the slot walls for a longer period of time and heat is not dissipated. Occasionally allow the bit to cool if you are routing long lengths of slot.

I prefer 1/2" MDF. It is lighter than the 5/8" or 18mm stuff (MDF is very heavy!) yet still has ample depth for even a 5/16" slot. You can make it conform to hills easier by cutting numerous grooves across the underside at right angles to the slot (a circular saw is ideal for this) - the grooves should almost meet the slot bottom.

If the router you use is a low power unit, you may want to cut the slot in two passes - half depth, then full depth. Just be sure that any jigs or guides you use are rigid enough to ensure that both passes will cut at exactly the same location.

You can make a very simple radius tool for routing curves, or you could cut templates out of wood with a jigsaw and follow the template with the router - just be sure the template is near perfect if you choose this method. You can use both methods too - a radius jig for smooth curves, and a template for "straights that aren't straight", for example. I usually rout the curves first, then the interconnecting straights.

Paint depends a lot on personal preference, as well as tire choice. Chalkboard paint (or other flat finishes) is better suited to sponge tires. Gloss surfaces are best for silicones. Most of the RTR rubber tires will work well on flat or semi-gloss. Semi-gloss is more durable than flat and seems to be the best all around choice, unless you are determined to have the more realistic "flat" look, or never intend to run silicones. Marine urethane paints are quite effective and very durable. Then again, I have even had good success with regular semi-gloss latex.

You won't need a big, honking 30 amp supply for a one-lane track. Anything that supplies 5 amps or more over the voltage range you want will be perfect - unless you intend to run very wild motors.

My usually lengthy 2 cents worth....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
cheers fergy,

Phase one of routed track is complete - permission from the housing authority : Granted! woohoo!


Rob.
 

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Brian Ferguson
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QUOTE permission from the housing authority : Granted!

One of life's stages... in the future, you'll need to get permission from the "Track Manager".... usually even MORE difficult!

Heck, I could probably write a thesis on political manouevering and bribery!


Have fun with this, Inte!
 

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QUOTE (tadream @ 3 Jan 2004, 11:54 AM)get Luf Linkerts video's at www.oldslotracer.com or contact him directly to get the necessary answers.
Yves,
How's that big track you're building coming along? Saw the pics at Luf's site. But no new pics lately. Love to see pics when you get done.

Joe
 

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Hi Joe,

Been fiddling around with all kinds of systems to connect the track-sections, but none to my liking and most MUCH to expensive for the limited use I have for it.

Since it is a permament track anyway, I've decided that I would simply screw the sections to the table, how much easier can it get ?

In the meantime some new cars have arrived for Christmas and because of that I've been doing too much track-time and very little building time...
By the way, anyone tried the Spirit Reynard yet ? It is a blast to drive (with magnets), and is the current lap-record holder of Petit Le Mans.

But I promise that in the next few weeks there will be new pics at Luf's site !

Cheers,

Yves
 

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QUOTE (tadream @ 4 Jan 2004, 04:28 PM)In the meantime some new cars have arrived for Christmas and because of that I've been doing too much track-time and very little building time...
Are you running 1/32 or 1/24? Or both?
 

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Only 1/32, it'll be allready very tight racing for 1/32 so 1/24 is out of the question !

Yves
 
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