Help with an SCX dome
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Rich, I had a problem too!
The slotted thing that you are supposed to twist with a coin to release the car simply broke away when I tried to turn it.
This left a round piece with two straight ridges on the underside of the base . I found a big screwdriver that fitted and turned it - in fact you only have to turn it a little way to release the car.
The next surprise, the attachment seems to be "self latching" so, as soon as I popped the car back on the base I had to go back to the garage and get the big screwdriver in order to release it again.
Needless to say, I no longer use the box!
It's a lovely car tho' - worth persevering with!
You are not alone!
I've kind of got it sussed now, The car clips on and off from the main section, and the slotted piece is a lock. The car can be pulled off from the main part by rolling it sideways.
Another thing- Anyone else noticed that the car has a case of split identity?
The number panels carry markings for the 24 hours of Le Mans 2002, but the class panels (either side of the airbox) are for the 24 hours of 2003...
Unfortunately, I'm at my parents' house for christmas withoput any track, so I can't run it yet, but I do like it a lot, even if it is very bad for the eyes...
Another thing- Anyone else noticed that the car has a case of split identity?
The number panels carry markings for the 24 hours of Le Mans 2002, but the class panels (either side of the airbox) are for the 24 hours of 2003...
Unfortunately, I'm at my parents' house for christmas withoput any track, so I can't run it yet, but I do like it a lot, even if it is very bad for the eyes...
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It's definitely Le Mans 2002, not 2003.
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In general...
10/10 for a great looking car...
minus several million/10 for the box fastening...
likewise for producing a car that failed to work!!!!
First test on an almost brand new track I could manage about 3 laps before it stuttered to a, albeit momentary, halt. Quick check over, no tyres visibly fouling, so body off and lightly oil the motor, bearings and gears... No difference... Also, the rear lights worked fine, the front left only just and the front right only with the rear wheels off the track and full throttle applied...
Methinks some maintenance and perseverance is necessary to get it to work properly!!!!
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Hi Rich,
Regarding the class panel I can barely read the year on it ! I trust you for the figure.
Anyway, it's a model of the car that raced in 2002 since Lammers drove the # 15 car in 2003.
Regarding the new fixing, for sure, first time around you're wondering what has to be done but once you're used to the new system it's just fine.
For those of you who don't have any experience with the new fixing, here's how it works :
- take a coin and turn an half circle. The pin should then be released.
- now, you simply pull the car off its base. You will feel some resistance, just pull harder. I grabbed the car by its chassis. To put the car back in its box, you simply push it on the base and you're done.
Regarding the class panel I can barely read the year on it ! I trust you for the figure.
Anyway, it's a model of the car that raced in 2002 since Lammers drove the # 15 car in 2003.
Regarding the new fixing, for sure, first time around you're wondering what has to be done but once you're used to the new system it's just fine.
For those of you who don't have any experience with the new fixing, here's how it works :
- take a coin and turn an half circle. The pin should then be released.
- now, you simply pull the car off its base. You will feel some resistance, just pull harder. I grabbed the car by its chassis. To put the car back in its box, you simply push it on the base and you're done.
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209 Posts
&*$£%* SCX Dome...
My wife's taking it back next week... (hopefully to swap it for something else, pref not SCX!!) Been apart more times in the last 24 hours than a Lego set! Still no front lights... Question for anyone, are the fronts supposed to be anywhere near as good as the rears? Still very poor intermittant performance on the Scaley Sport track with the body on... (goes ok without it but not brilliant!) Some signs of the rear axle bearings rubbing on the bodywork, probably when cornering... The list goes on...
I think I got a duff one, everyone else seems to love it!!
My wife's taking it back next week... (hopefully to swap it for something else, pref not SCX!!) Been apart more times in the last 24 hours than a Lego set! Still no front lights... Question for anyone, are the fronts supposed to be anywhere near as good as the rears? Still very poor intermittant performance on the Scaley Sport track with the body on... (goes ok without it but not brilliant!) Some signs of the rear axle bearings rubbing on the bodywork, probably when cornering... The list goes on...
I think I got a duff one, everyone else seems to love it!!
QUOTE &*$£%* SCX Dome...
Well it wasn't JUST the broken box fixing - I had a problem with the lights too!
After about two minutes running the fronts suddenly packed in (although the rears were fine). I took it apart, unscientifically poked all the light contacts , put it back together and it's worked fine ever since.
I had considered taking it back but, well... it's just too nice
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Also, Rich is correct about the 2002/2003 split personality - very easy to see with any high power microscope!
Well it wasn't JUST the broken box fixing - I had a problem with the lights too!
After about two minutes running the fronts suddenly packed in (although the rears were fine). I took it apart, unscientifically poked all the light contacts , put it back together and it's worked fine ever since.
I had considered taking it back but, well... it's just too nice
Also, Rich is correct about the 2002/2003 split personality - very easy to see with any high power microscope!
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427 Posts
i had all the same problems with an scx subaru
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469 Posts
The Dome is one of SCX's better efforts. I agree that the box is a little bit of a problem but I don't play with the box much.
As for the car, out of the box, everything worked just fine on my example. I didn't run it many laps since I wanted to break in the motor seperately. Taking the car apart revealed some items that could be improved on slightly.
First, the light connection spring contacts are not mounted very securely by the plastic melt method. I added some super glue to fix them more securely.
Second, as with some of the other cars made, the crown gear rubs against the body slightly if all the mount screws are tight. To fix this one needs to shave some plastic from the inside of the body around the gear bulge.
On the chassis, several areas could use some work.
First, the spring contacts on the motor that make with the chassis copper strips are easily bent and can slip off the chassis strips. I personally pua drop of solder on both to preclude this from happening.
Second, the motor cradle needs to have a cooling hole cut for the bottom cooling outlet of the motor. Even running without magnets the motor can get rather warm.
The second problem with the cradle is more serious in my opinion. The arms that hold the rear axle bearings and axle assembly are too flexable. Under torque load the car has allot of axle tramp due to this flex. This is more noticable if higher grip tires or a more powerful motor is used. This can be fixed but one has to add structural reinforcement. A better design might be to make the magnet holder part of the pod assembly and add a rear brace across the arms to increase regidity. Including the magnet with the pod would make the car handle better in setups using magnet downforce. Adding axle spacers to eliminate side to side slop helps this flex problem to some extent though not completely.
Also, why change the bearing type? Now I have to have one more different spare part in my parts bin.
Finally on the pod, SCX could have made it a little easier to remove the motor from the pod. I know that we all complain when the motor is loose but there must be a happy medium.
To get better tuning performance you can start with the following.
1. make the guide single braid rather than the double setup. The reduced springyness of the braid will lower the front slightly.
2. Either sand off the front tires to make them smaller or change them to a lower profile type. This will take load off the front axle and improve cornering speed.
3. Run in the motor at 3,6&9 vdc for 2,1,1/2 hours respectively, lubing bearings as necessary. add a couple drops of isopropal alcohol with motor running after breakin to clean comm. It should be noted that SCX type motors do benefit quitea bit from careful breakin and seating ofthe comm brushes.
4. Run in drive train for about 30minutes to seat gears and bearings.
5. Lube the motor cradle pivots with silicone oil to free up it's movement. assemble chassis and loosen rear body screws so that some "flex" is available.
Add these specific items to general tuning and the car really comes alive. This car runs pretty well without the magnet installed if the proper tires are used.
Jimmy in Greece
As for the car, out of the box, everything worked just fine on my example. I didn't run it many laps since I wanted to break in the motor seperately. Taking the car apart revealed some items that could be improved on slightly.
First, the light connection spring contacts are not mounted very securely by the plastic melt method. I added some super glue to fix them more securely.
Second, as with some of the other cars made, the crown gear rubs against the body slightly if all the mount screws are tight. To fix this one needs to shave some plastic from the inside of the body around the gear bulge.
On the chassis, several areas could use some work.
First, the spring contacts on the motor that make with the chassis copper strips are easily bent and can slip off the chassis strips. I personally pua drop of solder on both to preclude this from happening.
Second, the motor cradle needs to have a cooling hole cut for the bottom cooling outlet of the motor. Even running without magnets the motor can get rather warm.
The second problem with the cradle is more serious in my opinion. The arms that hold the rear axle bearings and axle assembly are too flexable. Under torque load the car has allot of axle tramp due to this flex. This is more noticable if higher grip tires or a more powerful motor is used. This can be fixed but one has to add structural reinforcement. A better design might be to make the magnet holder part of the pod assembly and add a rear brace across the arms to increase regidity. Including the magnet with the pod would make the car handle better in setups using magnet downforce. Adding axle spacers to eliminate side to side slop helps this flex problem to some extent though not completely.
Also, why change the bearing type? Now I have to have one more different spare part in my parts bin.
Finally on the pod, SCX could have made it a little easier to remove the motor from the pod. I know that we all complain when the motor is loose but there must be a happy medium.
To get better tuning performance you can start with the following.
1. make the guide single braid rather than the double setup. The reduced springyness of the braid will lower the front slightly.
2. Either sand off the front tires to make them smaller or change them to a lower profile type. This will take load off the front axle and improve cornering speed.
3. Run in the motor at 3,6&9 vdc for 2,1,1/2 hours respectively, lubing bearings as necessary. add a couple drops of isopropal alcohol with motor running after breakin to clean comm. It should be noted that SCX type motors do benefit quitea bit from careful breakin and seating ofthe comm brushes.
4. Run in drive train for about 30minutes to seat gears and bearings.
5. Lube the motor cradle pivots with silicone oil to free up it's movement. assemble chassis and loosen rear body screws so that some "flex" is available.
Add these specific items to general tuning and the car really comes alive. This car runs pretty well without the magnet installed if the proper tires are used.
Jimmy in Greece
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469 Posts
One thing that could be addressed to SCX is their lack of spare parts such as chassis. I have several cars (Audi R8) that could use a new chassis but SCX does not sell them. With cars like the Dome I can see allot of broken parts like the motor pod and chassis that really need to be made as spare parts. They used to make some spares several years ago but I haven't seen spare chassis since the Ferrari 333 and F-40.
Jimmy
Jimmy
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2,493 Posts
AAAACTUALLY they do chassis for the F1's
want me to enquire about an R8 chassis mate?
Rob.
want me to enquire about an R8 chassis mate?
Rob.
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469 Posts
Thanks Intergrali,
If you would, both the R8 and the Dome. I have 8 R8s and none have a stock chassis left. I really could use a couple to get some of my cars back closer to stock. I was hoping that Slot Mania in Spain would eventually have one made. You can find several of the older chassis there.(333 and F-40).
It's not just chassis though. items like mirrors would be nice also.
Jimmy
If you would, both the R8 and the Dome. I have 8 R8s and none have a stock chassis left. I really could use a couple to get some of my cars back closer to stock. I was hoping that Slot Mania in Spain would eventually have one made. You can find several of the older chassis there.(333 and F-40).
It's not just chassis though. items like mirrors would be nice also.
Jimmy
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7 Posts
Well, I imagine I will buy one - the performace sounds pretty good, but...do you suppose the Dome would ever be offered in another livery?
I know a lot of people like it, but personally, I can't stand it.
MS
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I know a lot of people like it, but personally, I can't stand it.
MS
So far I have nothing but good things to say about the Dome except for the D*&N
BOX. Have a couple hundred laps on it so far and the lights are working great and is actually pretty quiet compared to other SCX cars , handles nicely, reminds me of the Slotit Porsche being able to get it into controllable slides.
DE38
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BOX. Have a couple hundred laps on it so far and the lights are working great and is actually pretty quiet compared to other SCX cars , handles nicely, reminds me of the Slotit Porsche being able to get it into controllable slides.
DE38
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