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How would you like SH type power, the ability to adjust voltage all for next to nothing? Yes? Well read on!

You need
Craft knife
Soldering iron
solder sucker
2x R010 resistors

Difficulty level 2/10 easy enough for teenagers or adults.

Stage one, remove power connector, bend up a leg and refit.

Use solder sucker to remove solder.

Be careful there is a small track on the connector side. If it breaks just use a wire to link from the diode to the side leg.
Prise connector up when all solder has gone

bend up the end leg

Solder back onto board with remaing two legs and solder a thick wire to the bent up leg. Feed wire through 5 volt regulator hole as shown


Stage 2, cut track and solder wire to it
flip board over and with the craft knife cut through the large track shown, cut back and forth until it is cleanly cut. Check with a meter if you have one

Scrape off some of the green stuff and tin the track with some solder. Now solder the wire to the track


Stage 3, add two resistors to double the current trip point
Identify the two resistors R010 in the centre of this photo. Add extra solder either end as shown.

Now solder your new R010 resistors (size 2512) directly on top.

Use a standard C7024 power supply for the untouched connector (this powers the computer)
Use a 0-15V 20-30 Amp power supply for the modified connector (this goes to the power section)

 

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Thanks Riko this looks fantastic, reckon I need an appointment to the eye specialist to get new glasses so I can attempt this, or talk to my local electronics guys and offer them a slab of beers


Can't wait for you guys to figure out how to get RichG's laptower working with the APB if at all possible.

I reckon I'm now a convert from PB Pro SH to APB C7042, great work guys, brilliant, absolutley brilliant
 

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Joel LeNoir
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952 Posts
Very nice. Always amazed at all the advancements that come from this excellent forum. Now for this one....... I will be most definitely farming out to someone who knows what they are doing. You guys are great.

Joel
 

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WRP World Champ 2015/2016
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Numpty question time: Drum roll please.

Does this mod prevent dual lane analogue running??

Thanks for your continuing efforts, it really is much appreciated by us rank and file racers. Cheers ;o)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good question, analogue mode still functions.


The ability to up the voltage can cause a problem with some cars in analogue mode, it is a "feature" of the standard system as well at full chat, but is difficult to notice.

We are investigating this, it might be that we add a capacitor or take out an inductor.

Digital mode is 100%, and analogue works fine for some cars.
For affected cars you can still have the increased current, but you need to keep volts down to normal.

So not a "numpty" question at all
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Like Billy Cart, I had trouble seeing what was done in Stages 2 & 3.
Any chance there would be a closeup diagram showing what goes where?

Thanks for the great work.... Now to appease the dual analogue fans.

Cheers!
 

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Alfie Noakes
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Very Nice Indeed!

Riko, would you (or 'others') be offering this upgrade as a service, for those of us who aren't so accurate with the soldering iron?
(Please feel free to PM answer if more appropriate)
Cheers,
Richard
 

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Thanks, Riko.

Excellent work, as usual.

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Cut and tinning an area ready for the cable



Position of the two R010 resistors - here I have added solder ready for the additional resistors



Finally with the new resistors in place

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Cut and tinning an area ready for the cable



Position of the two R010 resistors - here I have added solder ready for the additional resistors



Finally with the new resistors in place

 

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May I ask for clarification on your phrase...

"Be careful there is a small track on the connector side. If it breaks just use a wire to link from the diode to the side leg."

When removing/repositioning the power connector.

And thank you for the mod !
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
There is a track that is only half a millimetre thick that runs under the connector. It is used for detecting that a connector is fitted (to allow two lane analogue for example). Unless you clean all the solder from the connector legs then as you remove it you are likely to pick up the tiny track with the connector. Thats not the end of the world. Just cut it and discard the track. then when the connector is resoldered in place run a tiny signal type wire from the end of the diode that the track went to, to the connector side leg. I'll show a picture later.
 

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That took me back! I have stood in the room where they make these - I'm an ex-Vishay employee (have to be carefull, saying that is the equivalent of "Voldermort" in my current employers!).

http://uk.farnell.com/vishay-dale/wsl2512r...053?Ntt=1470053

+2 for the post off and pay brigade! I'd be happy apart from soldering the new wire to the track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So with a potential demand for quite a lot of these can you get an ex-employee discount??
 
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