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High Power variable voltage mod for C7042 APB

91105 Views 306 Replies 59 Participants Last post by  Gavin84
How would you like SH type power, the ability to adjust voltage all for next to nothing? Yes? Well read on!

You need
Craft knife
Soldering iron
solder sucker
2x R010 resistors

Difficulty level 2/10 easy enough for teenagers or adults.

Stage one, remove power connector, bend up a leg and refit.

Use solder sucker to remove solder.

Be careful there is a small track on the connector side. If it breaks just use a wire to link from the diode to the side leg.
Prise connector up when all solder has gone

bend up the end leg

Solder back onto board with remaing two legs and solder a thick wire to the bent up leg. Feed wire through 5 volt regulator hole as shown


Stage 2, cut track and solder wire to it
flip board over and with the craft knife cut through the large track shown, cut back and forth until it is cleanly cut. Check with a meter if you have one

Scrape off some of the green stuff and tin the track with some solder. Now solder the wire to the track


Stage 3, add two resistors to double the current trip point
Identify the two resistors R010 in the centre of this photo. Add extra solder either end as shown.

Now solder your new R010 resistors (size 2512) directly on top.

Use a standard C7024 power supply for the untouched connector (this powers the computer)
Use a 0-15V 20-30 Amp power supply for the modified connector (this goes to the power section)

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It's not damaging the Pit-Pro, it's just that it will try and start if the voltage gets above a certain level, and in analogue mode you are going from full voltage to zero voltage constantly.

As you have Pit-Pro then you don't want power on the rails to get too low, else that will stop working. I wouldn't do the separate power to the lane changers because of that, and as Ade says above it was really to cope with the early power bases that were struggling to do everything with a couple of amps...

If you want to use power supplies then find 12V ones for preference. There are some 15V rated parts in the XLCs. I know people have run their tracks at up to 18V, but whether or not the electronics will last is the question
Thanks RikoRocket I'm going to get a 12 volt supply for the pitpro and I'll leave the lanechangers as they are cheers. Gavin
Since my Pit-Pro is split from the track, mine is powered by a separate PSU which also powers the lane changers.
Pit Lanes (mine, anyway) have a tendency to flip to the change position when they power on, so if you have enough of a delay between zero and full power in analog mode on that lane, you might find your cars going into the pit lane. It shouldn't be a problem, but will be unexpected, and might cause a missed lap if your pit lane bypasses your power base. All my lane changers, driver stations (powered slot and SCP power), Pit-Pro, and loose wires for future track lighting are all powered by a single fixed volt (13.8) Pyramid power supply, which I think is a 10 amp unit.
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Since my Pit-Pro is split from the track, mine is powered by a separate PSU which also powers the lane changers.
Pit Lanes (mine, anyway) have a tendency to flip to the change position when they power on, so if you have enough of a delay between zero and full power in analog mode on that lane, you might find your cars going into the pit lane. It shouldn't be a problem, but will be unexpected, and might cause a missed lap if your pit lane bypasses your power base. All my lane changers, driver stations (powered slot and SCP power), Pit-Pro, and loose wires for future track lighting are all powered by a single fixed volt (13.8) Pyramid power supply, which I think is a 10 amp unit.
Thanks Greg I'm just going to give the pitpro separate power so that I can use it on analogue mode.
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Hi guy's back again for more help please.. I got my variable power supply but it has a removable metal bar which connects between negative and ground supply terminals but in the manual it says it can be negative to ground or ground to positive. It says for safe usage but don't know if i should be using it or what position to put it in thanks for any help. Gavin

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Mine is the same. I leave it. Negative should usually be ground, at least for our applications. I'm sure some techie will have reasons why they'd need to be split, but I don't think they apply to this case.
You could probably remove it with no adverse effect, but why bother if it's not necessary?
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Mine is the same. I leave it. Negative should usually be ground, at least for our applications. I'm sure some techie will have reasons why they'd need to be split, but I don't think they apply to this case.
You could probably remove it with no adverse effect, but why bother if it's not necessary?
Thanks again Greg gives me peace of mind knowing.. Now I'm going to have a play around with it. 😁😁👍👌
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Quick update on the high power mod I'm really happy that i done it as I have a collection of about 100 cars. some really hard to drive at full power and was able to use most of them last night so for just that alone it was worth doing. 😁
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