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9106 Views 68 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Ecurie Martini
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A few months back I picked up a rather sorry looking Airfix-MRRC Honda F1 with a view to renovating it - never thought I'd actually get around to doing it of course. Well, that's forums for you I suppose!

I began by stripping it down to it's component parts and giving it a general clean up:



Quite a few parts were missing: one mirror, suspension detail, drivers head and the underside of the nose. The nose was a bit of a curiosity in itself as it appeared to have a slight "V" indent and was a little short compared to my Model Cars plans. Maybe it ran like this somewhere or maybe I just had more missing from the car than I first thought?

Anyway, I set about correcting it as follows:

Armed with a tube of Chip & Dent filler and aluminium car repair mesh I made a small bridge to the underside of the nose:



This was held in place using Araldite Rapid.

After a quick fill (not one of howmet's snack breaks I might add), I lengthened the nose by gluing on a small piece of plasticard,



sanded it to shape and then hollowed it out by drilling a few small holes, finishing off the inside with a small Minicraft grinder.

Next I added more mesh and filler to cover the steering mechanism and rear motor mount cut-outs and ground out the inside of the shell to give as much room for the motor as possible:



Still more work to do but now on with the chassis...
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Hi

If you looked at the Vegas photos..you saw I have a BUNCH. EM was building his Eagle to spank ME!!

Anyway, ok, I am in the U.S. But I will offer to host a proxy for these cars!

Rules are simple. SCALE(ok, a fudge, if what you are using are the Airfix bodies...ok, but). Class 1: 1965 through 1970. If there is interest, 1971 thorugh 1980. No magnets. Unless someone chimes in, no prizes, just GLORY!

Venue, a series of races: 1 on a 125 routed track, 1 on a 4 lane club track of about 65 feet, and others as I get local interest. One option might be that I will do up 4 lane revell as a model of various REAL tracks on the model of the old Bob Schleicher series. Who drives what locally will be random. Postage, being in america, I will do it this way, Iwill pay the postage back, and swap value in Pre-ad bodies! Interested?

Fate
Hi

Ok, an american series!

I think this works if EM participates because of his access to the British postal stuff. My local tracks first, then EM, then home?

Perhaps a winter series starting October 1. Further, late entries will just be added in(in the 60s, teams often didnt quite make the first race or two!)

Are 6 tracks enough for a "World Championship"? As I said, I can use my revell track to model real race tracks. If you guys remember that stuff. The ones that work best for my stuff are: Sebring, Brands, Spa, Monza, Watkins Glen and Riverside all work in 4 lane revell, Things like Monaco, Nring do no.

So, Using EMs 2 tracks, a local routed track, at least one other local club track, and my reconfiguring the Revell to be others; we could do a series 8! (you pick the tracks). Probably finished by next Summer!

Fate
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Hi

This may be a surprise, but front tires commonly do NOT touch and roll!

Simply this... people build on a flat surface, but tracks are rarely FLAT!

Commercially routed tracks can have a braid recess of up to .025 inch. Some tracks, such as my Revell is more or less flush, but it has highs and lows. Old Strombecker and "classic" Scalextric can have rails as much as .020 proud. And the "flush" rail new Scalex I have seen with as much as .010.

As I run on a variety of places, as your's will.... I cannot insist on a "touch and Roll" rule because if your set up block differs from the track being used (I think the Baltimore round will be on Scalex), then the rule becomes silly.

Personally, I use my "Prof.Fate Front" which simply hinges that axle tube so that it moves up and down as the track demands! Danny Wilson was facinated by this bit and wrote about it in MCR.

Fate
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