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Phil Kalbfell
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These kits are made from a different plastic to the Slot bodies but can be converted but need either a donor chassis,aftermarket or scratch built chassis. The tyres in the kits are O/K for some track surfaces.

Phil
 

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Waitaminute: It's my understanding the hornby 1/32 kits (Camaro, Mustang, MINI, TVR 911 GT3 etc.) were from the same molds as the scalex slot cars except that the hornby kits uses a different belly pan with more detail but not immediately motor and guide post ready.

Again, from what I have been told the kits will mate perfectly with the scalectrix slotcar chassis of the same model. The scalex chassis are generally available at various online (and local I assume) retailers. Add gears, guide,motor, driver figure (optional) and favorite paint scheme (also optional) and you are off to the races...

Based on that information they have to be the easiest scratchbuild/kitbash on the planet.

Edit: glaring errors not caught by spell check
 

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just as this thread was going a little wild, atticracer pulled us back from the brink!
About the lack of chrome, I would recommend spraying Alclad chrome if you use an airbrush. I have been very pleased with the results...much better than just your standard chrome paint IMHO.
regards,
John
 

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Phil Kalbfell
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Attic racer: if you buya Hornby kit and a Scalex chassis etc why not just buy the complete car? They are starting to appear on special sometimes. The kits do look like they are from the same moulds but the plastic is different and may be a bit more fragile.
I have used bare metal for the chrome.

Phil
 

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Phil: Too true; for most of us a complete car would be cheaper and less work.

Unless... you you would rather not strip the paint off a new one to get the color scheme you have in mind. Or... you wanted a specific drive train, motor, wheels, tires - what have you.

There are lots of reasons why someone would rather build than buy (and vice versa).

The original poster was asking if these were good models to kit bash and from what I have heard and seen they are quite good. The fact that you can buy a plastic chassis that fits perfectly makes them a pretty easy first outing for a budding scratchbuilder.

That's all I was trying to point out.

Cheers,
Greg
 

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hi,
just wanted to add on to what Phil is saying about Bare Metal. I have used Bare Metal and Alclad Chrome extensively...and like them both for different applications. If it is something that I can isolate and spray, then I go with Alclad every time. The finish is very metal-like, you almost get a sense of mass with it. And the final look is easy to control by the color of undercoat and amount of chrome topcoat (you can vary it from a fresh new look to an older almost antiquey look). I like Bare Metal as well...very much so...but prefer it where spraying (masking) is not as straightforward, such as the thin chrome horizontal trim on the side of a 280 SL or around windows. For little pieces like door handles you can brush alclad by hand. so anyway, a fuller answer to some alternatives to plated chrome that is missing on the Hornby kits.

regards,
John

PS it is worth mentioning that both Bare Metal and Alclad have a series of other metal finishes to choose from
 

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reason we are looking for a kit is just a bit of fun to see what we can make of one,maybe it will result in around as much or more expense as buying the actual car,but just as a little project,u know?
thanks for the advice again folks!
 

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The hornby kits are ace!

I have converted a couple of the Merc DTMs to slot cars, using a donor 'race-based' Merc brought from ebay.

Here is the Dark Dog one, I am working on an Autobacs one as well.



Oh, and remember to post some pics of the finished results.

Cheers,

Mark
 

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Scratchbuilding one of Hornby's models could be the first step on a very enjoyable hobby ladder. Once bitten, you may not be able to get enough.



This is the Hornby Porsche GT1 done in Fantasy livery. It has a chassis made of copper sided circuit board, an NC2 motor and the original wheels and tyres mounted on music wire axles. Driver, navgator and drivers tray were from a Ninco Corolla



The bodies are polystyrene as opposed to ABS used on the slotcars. Lack of chrome is not a big deal as most of the cars modelled don't have it anyway! Wheels work well and tyres are fine.
 

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Alexis Gaitanis
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I have motorized 7 Revell easykits(2 Merc DTM,2 Astra DTM,2 AUDI DTM,1Xsara WRC) as consumable cars for my 10 yo son and friends.
They are fast to assemble,no painting required,and you spend very little apart from the kits cost:
motor
guide
gears
magnets
I make my own silicone tires on kits rims so i did not have to spend on tires .

REVELL OPEL ASTRA DTM PM MAGAZINE
This car has,standard current scalextric mabuchi motor guide and gears,and
one button 8x5 magnet in front of the motor and one 20x4x2 mm magnet below the rear axle and it laps faster(4.1sec/lap) than any out of the box non f1 of my collection:
SCALEXTRIC FORD GT 40 RED#3 4.7
SCALEXTRIC LISTER STORM 4.4
SCALEXTRIC FORD GT 40 w/silicone tires 4.3
SCALEXTRIC OPEL ASTRA OASE 5.4
SCALEXTRIC MASERATI CAMBIOCORSA 4.5
SCALEXTRIC MASERATI #33 4.7
FLY PANOZ 5
SLOT IT KENWOOD PORSCHE 5
Lap record is 4.0 by RENAULT f1
 

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If you are near a "Hobbycraft" store they are currently selling the Hornby kits for £5.02 - a curious price but that's what I paid today.

David
 

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Alexis has a good point too.

The link is to a converted Revell Merc.

Revell "Easy Kit" Merc CLK

One thing to watch with these is that they mey well be ABS! Polystyrene cement or liquid solvent doesn't last well. ABS solvent (from your model supplier) applied to a scraped or sanded area seems to work fine.

Drivers are available from FLY or CARTRIX dealers.
 
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