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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've only been doing this for a few years, but no one will be surprised to hear that I now have a large number of cars. A small number of them I've put a lot of attention in to refurbishing. A few, used for club racing, have received a substantial amount of effort. I also have what may be a somewhat irrational and unrealistic desire to keep track of where every chassis came from and it's history.

How do folks keep records for each chassis? How do you label are mark them? How do you keep track of what parts are in it and the history of how it developed?

For the racing cars I have kept notes about the parts used and what class or race they were built for. But I haven't decided on a good way to mark the chassis to make sure I can connect it back to the notes. A this point I have less than 10 so I just know the chassis by the body. But I have a bunch of other cars I've modified that I'm starting to forget what I did and how they got to be like they are.

I've been temped to engrave them, similar to how the OS3 Grey Fox cars are marked. But that seems maybe a bit overboard? And I've been reluctant to grind something into the ~55 year old chassis, I guess for for sentimental reasons? I mean, having made it this far, how many more decades do these chassis have in them? :)

Anyone have any good methods or suggestions? I'm starting to loose track.


Here is a picture from FB of the OS3 built chassis. It looks like they were all serialized from X01 to X150 or so.

Yellow Font Auto part Machine Metal
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Where did you get the brass/copper wheel weights/spacers?
That's not a car I own. Just a picture I grabbed from FB.

Those front ends are sold by OS3.


Wizzard sells a comparable set.

 

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I like where you are going with this. I would probably approach identifying the chassis and gear plates with fine point paint markers and a series of small dot color codes.
One dot - first pass through all of the colors. 2 dots - second pass through the colors (red/red - red/orange - red/yellow etc.) (Orange/Red - Orange/Orange - Orange/Yellow etc.) By the time you reach 4 dots of 6 basic colors you have a lot of combinations and doesn't take up much space.
A bit like resistor color codes.
Track as much history of components installed, costs, cleaning and maintenance schedules as you please in a spread sheet.
Clear identity without being destructive or truly permanent.
 

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I only started HO in 2021, and it's already too late to start keeping track. Oops.

My excuse is... I need something to do when I retire.

I like the coloured dot idea. I don't have a wide variety of cars. My biggest issue is keeping track of where the 6, 10, 14, or 16-plus Ohm armatures are going in my T-jets.
 

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This how I number my 1/43rd scale and bigger

Black Rectangle Yellow Gas Circuit component


As long as you can find a small smooth spot correction tape normally goes on quite, just don't use a fine tip pen, and it comes off with a finger nail or some times with a second application of tape.
 

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Heck, I cannot remember which one of my 1:1 cars has heat, or both windows working, or a speedometer, or...

Thankfully, all my chassis are the same, so either it runs, needs work, or is headed to the great parts bin in the sky, no accounting necessary.

But I get it, and mo power to y'all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's interesting that no one really shares my desire to keep a record. What does that say about me? :)

I started in 2019, I pulled out my AFX speed-lok track last used around 1984 and a pile of dead Tjets that as a kid I always wanted to fix up. A search for parts to restore those cars led me to all the cool T-het hop-up parts and I was off to the races.

A rough tally shows I have around 10 "runners" of each of my preferred chassis: T-jets, AFX (a mix of MT and non), Type Pro. Maybe 5 each of 440 and X2 and Aurora G+, and a few AW Xtraction and Tjets. And about 10 race cars of various "formulas", nearly all based on the T-jet. So roughly 50. I can mostly keep them straight at this point.

But beyond the runners I have roughly that same number of Tjet and AFX chassis waiting to be restored or modified. And boxes and boxes of parts and bodies and goodies. And then there are the Dash chassis. Plenty to occupy my time for quite a while.

Really, It's just the T-jets and AFX cars that I want to keep track of. There are so many variables, so many levels of effort that one can apply, and so many directions one can go with a build. Some of my tjets just got a quick clean-and-oil, some got a full teardown and ultra-sonic bath, and some got the full Fray build treatment, measuring and matching and peening and tweaking. Even at 20 or so Tjets, between the runner and racers, I don't really remember which ones got what level of effort. Looking at the stash of parts I've collected, and the wide variety of options, it seems like I need to come up with some kind of system.

And those old pancakes have so much personality. Every one is unique. Huge variations in magnet strength, armature specs and performance, new parts vs vintage, gear quality, wheel style, tire size, and on and on. I think the sense that each one is unique is part of why I want to record how each one got that way. Plus, how else do you master the art of building these chassis if you can't go back and figure out which parts and techniques worked and which didn't?

The correction tape is an interesting idea. I may have some around. I'll have to try that and see how well it holds up.

I'm also very intrigued by the idea of using paint stripes like resistor color codes. That's a really cool idea, and right in my wheelhouse. But I wonder how well the paint would stand up to oil or chemicals. I often use isopropyl for cleaning, which easily removes normal sharpie. Also, Dash chassis are Delrin and not much can stick to that. I see there are some serious industrial paint markers that might work but seem to all be wide tip. The fine tip paint markers on amazon seem to say they are "removable" but also claim to be permanent.
 

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I'm actually with you on this. I am gradually building up sets of 4 cars by chassis type based on upgrade groups and body types. For example, A/FX Can Am Group A : bone stock and rubber tires. A/FX Can Am Group B : Upgraded brushes, mild magnet upgrade and silicone tires.
I will try out a few different paint markers that I have here and see how they hold up against alcohol and oils.
 

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You may have to keep the chassis matched with a body.

I tend to not swap bodies around although I rarely do but only for a very good reason. So that helps me remember.

My childhood cars, I always keep the same body with the same chassis. All my bodies are unique in some way. (If I have a duplicate, then there must be a sticker added.)

One issue however, regarding my childhood cars sometimes it's hard to remember if they are truly a childhood car as I have purchased ebay versions to replace lost cars that only survived in memory!
 

· Rich Dumas
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The car in the first post looks very familiar, it is one of the Bacher cars that One Stop Slot Shop sold. Someone turned up at one of our races with one and it was very fast, at the next race another guy had one that was fast as well, so I bought one. I noticed that the car was numbered, mine is B139. I made a note of what parts were used to build that car and I have done about a half dozen clone of it. My club races a number of classes and I like to have at least four cars for each class. A couple of the classes are raced with different body styles, so usually I mark the chassis so I will know which ones tend to be faster. Several people that I know keep log books with separate pages for each car, but I have not done that. I race most of my cars and before each event the cars that will be raced get a test run on my track before they are cleaned and adjusted. I race on many different tracks and a car that is the fastest on my track may be a dud on the one that I will race on. It is my policy to put an extra effort into the slowest car in each class.
I do have an Excel spreadsheet that has the best lap time on my track for each chassis and body configuration, so at least I can identify the cars that have fallen off in performance.
 

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At first I tried to keep track of the cars I had, I had a list and where it came from, what chassis type, what body, etc.

Somewhere along the road the list got lost and with many note cars it became difficult to keep track. I tried marking them but no marker would stay, I tried tape but it would fall off, and so on.

I still have one car from.my childhood, it was my dad's before that. It had a chassis and I no longer know which chassis it is, but the body I recognize.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
is one of the Bacher cars that One Stop Slot Shop sold. Someone turned up at one of our races with one and it was very fast,
...
I made a note of what parts were used to build that car and I have done about a half dozen clone of it.
I don't know who built them, but yes that "X15" car pictured was sold by OS3 as a ready-to-race Fray/SS car. I actually picked up number X17 used. It's much faster than any of the cars for this class that I've built, but haven't had a chance to race it since I found it.
The biggest challenge for me with building a fast Fray/SS car is the armature. I can get all the other parts, and build it well enough, but I could never find a hot arm. Of course when I was building those first cars in 2019, ECHORR & Fray rules did not allow Dash arms. Now they both do, so hopefully that will be easier. I'm assuming that's part of why the X17 car I have went up for sale. Rule changes made it less competitive.

Rich, I was really hoping you would have come up with some clever system. Given the methodical testing methods you've talked about, I was guessing that might extend to chassis as well.

One issue however, regarding my childhood cars sometimes it's hard to remember if they are truly a childhood car
I started by restoring my childhood cars, along with my father's T-jets. But I quickly realized I was going to end up with a fair number of other cars, so I put all the "original" cars in a display case. Of course, it's a bit funny to call them "original", since they have 2019 parts on them. But still, they were quickly sequestered so they didn't get mixed up with the general population.
 

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I marked my childhood survivor cars with silver dots on rear of the chassis and gear plate. I have since done some swapping around, but those chassis and gear plates were already mixed from their original factory pairings over the years. It is not a very robust marker, but they have held up for the past year.
The one dot gear plate came from one of the A/FX Sears Super Traction cars that were in my original A/FX set. It is an exceptionally good mean green. The gear plate from the other in the pair did not survive the years.
I may have to start a new thread for us to show off our "survivor" cars.

Camera accessory Gas Auto part Font Rectangle
Automotive tire Camera accessory Motor vehicle Camera lens Automotive wheel system
Vehicle Car Automotive design Motorsport Bumper
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Um, that you are not (wait, there's a bunny out the window...) ADD.
I'm not so sure about that. I don't know if ADD is exactly what it is, but I can tell you that I have a huge number of projects piled up here and there, "in progress" but not making much progress...

You mention 1:1 vehicles. I have 2 running motorcycles, two non-running, and 2 "future projects". And that's just one of many hobbies I pursue... The nice thing is that bikes are easier to keep track of. They come with VIN numbers!

I may have to start a new thread for us to show off our "survivor" cars.
I would post in that thread. :)
 
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