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· ParrotGod
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Given that I am preparing a similar car, thanks Gary for sharing the details.
Anyway, I am stuck at the moment without the interior.
 

· ParrotGod
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12,512 Posts
Hi Tamar
I am putting my through the same diet. I am currently at 20.3 gr body only.
What is the weight of your lexan interior?

thanks.
 

· ParrotGod
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12,512 Posts
I put mine through the same diet. I have a couple of extra vents (behind the rear wheel arches) now but the best I have managed is to bring the body down to 19.4 gr.
I read that the lexan interior is 1.5 gr. So if I put that in I will be at 21 gr.
I can see that you manged to bring her down to 19 gr with the interior: Well done!

By the way, I have lights now. After removing the lead (that was 7 gr), the whole car is 93.4 gr.
 

· ParrotGod
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12,512 Posts
Yesterday I did another pass on the body of my conti and manged to shave off another gram.
I think that is good enough for me without making it too thin and fragile.


I have removed all the lead on the chassis and put in the suspension kit. This is what she weighs now:


I have ordered the BS motor and the wheels from Gary. I think that once I install the pro-comp wheels she should lose some more grams.
 

· ParrotGod
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12,512 Posts
Hi John
yes, that is the weight without any lead. If you check the other thread, Tamar's fully assembled car was around 89.
What you mean standard car? The scaley version? No idea...have to check.
 

· ParrotGod
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12,512 Posts
Gary, Tamar and I are preparing the Conti for the DiSCA GT3 Euroseries. The idea is to use the scaley body on a 3D printed chassis.
Min body weight for the body in the regs is 19gr, so specifically this thread is about how to make the heavy scaley body (or for that matter Carrera) as light as possible to be competitive with other pro-oriented models (like scaleauto and NSR).
Just to answer your question: a stock scaley conti is around 90gr without a chip.
 

· ParrotGod
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12,512 Posts
Hi Tamar
yes I noticed about the scale too ;-)

For the pod, I guess you mean the two extra anchor points on the side of the pod right? I was going to chop them as we usually do for our analog racing on the SW pods.
The idea is that they impede side movement of the pod. But then I was that you are using grabscrews on them...I tried some grabscrew on mine but the holes are too big.
So I went for two screw that are used for fixing the DPR chips on the chassis.

By the way, that interior of yours look awesome. I was planning to put the rollcage on my as well.
 

· ParrotGod
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12,512 Posts
My interior is coming: John is working on it.

Although he is superbusy, he has taken into account my comments for detailing it.
Thanks John for your help. Now I have to make sure that the car will be performing as it deserves.
 

· ParrotGod
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12,512 Posts
Here is a bit of update on my Conti. First of all, last Saturday, after our DTM race, I raced it against 3 NSR porsches. The car was handling beautifully in the corners. The porsches were a little faster on the straight just because they had a taller gearing (stock 31/13 vs the conti 27/11) but didn't have any suspension kit as the conti. They are also a good 5gr lighter.

Anyway, during the weekend I have put a bit of details on the body work.
First the canards in the front. These are made from the extra material left from a lexan interior attached to the body via a piece of wire (a piece of leg from the resistor I used for taming the rear lights).
I had to drill a small hole by using a very fine bit. I have also opened some vents below the grill and put more bits of lexan material to make look like small radiator grills (it is not really so visible in the pic below).
I have now the opening for the fog lights but I miss the details inside it (the 3x3 matrix LED). Finally I have made a simple rope for pulling the car in case of a crash.



Here is a pic of one side of the car



A bit more details below. I have painted the rims, opened some vents on the back, and opened the exhaust hole.



On the back I have also put the small ring for pulling the car



Nothing really fancy or at the same level as Tamar here. But if I can do it anyone else here should be able to add a bit more details to their cars.
Next week I should receive my interior from John. I will do some of the detailing described by Tamar here.
 

· ParrotGod
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12,512 Posts
Thanks Tamar. It is amazing how small details can make a model look more real.
As I said, nothing really major but I do love the way those front canard wings make the car looks more aggressive.

Thanks also for the fog light details. Again, this is another bit of details that change the look of the car (in IMO anyway).
 

· ParrotGod
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12,512 Posts
Thanks Gary. The big girl is really growing on me ;-)
I have been concentrating on some details of the interior and I am waiting for John's vacformed tray coming soon.
 

· ParrotGod
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Yesterday I received the interiors from John Warren - AKA Munter.
Not only he embarked on this project in a very short notice finding some time from his busy schedule, but he did more than one tray and in different trim as well.
Thanks John.

Looking at Tamar's interior, I wanted to achieve a similar level of details.
John's tray is very light to start with. Adding some of the details from the original scaley car, I managed to get to 1.56 gr.
I have added the rollcage, the pilot helmet, the top part of the seat with the head support, the fuel pipe on the rear of the pilot and a comm cable.








Because I have cut the tray a bit too short, I had to put some black tape to extend the rear of the tray...This has added a bit of extra weight.
So the final weight of the car is a wooping 20.42 gr



And this how she looks on the setup block

 
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