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Matt Tucker
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3,561 Posts
A photo will say a thousand words but I'll try the words!

Tyre sits on hub, edge of tyre lifted and dab of glue on the lip of the hub. Tyre replaced and work round rim. Wear protective eye wear just in case of splash back. Once you've gone round the rim run the tyre/hub over a surface. Let it dry and do the other side (ie inside or outside whichever is left). Once dried glue hubs to axles and true the whole lot.

I use superglue just cause its quick.

Matt
 

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QUOTE And.... for silicones on aluminum wheels? question.gif

although i havent used silicone a great deal - i wouldnt say that gluing them on is needed. They will usually be a tight fit around the hub and care is needed to be taken when fitting them, so they don't rip. I mainly cleaned them with lighter fluid when I used them. I prefer rubber.

best of luck with the glue!

James
 

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A tip which Jim Brown demonstrated to me:-

With some rubber tyre sizes and wheel types you can roll half of the tyre away from its rim, dab the superglue around the rim so that it runs all the way around (easy does it!!) then let the tyre roll back over the rim. Repeat for the other side


My particular example - Ortmann tyres on slot it plastic wheels for my SCX Impreza.


Mark.
 

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I always glue my tires to the wheels so that they stay put. I've tried to figure out the best way of applying the glue (I use super glue) without it fouling the tire or wheel. I used to add a little glue to the end of a razor knife. But, yesterday I was at the hobby shop and noticed a little package near the register. Microbrush it said, for applying very small amounts of paint and glue. Well, this is the ticket. These super fine brushes suspend about a half drop of glue and put it right where you need it. Check them out at MicroBrush.com Definitely, one of my better $2.00 purchases.


 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ahh so i am doing it right then, but i used bostik before rather han superglue, the superglue you can pull the tyre off iff to pull t a bit, the bostik i needed a screwdriver to get it off, it de araldited itself from the axel before the tyre came off

thanks to all of you for helping me out, again
 

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Premium Member
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hi,
I just want to echo what Graham was saying. I run my finger around the aluminum hub with just the lightest smear of silicone and then push the tire on (from the outside in, so you don't pick up any glue on the sidewall). I have been very satisfied with the results. The glue lasts forever (so far) and it's still pretty easy to remove the tire (and pick off the bits of glue) if needed later.

regards,
John
 

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This is a very interesting discussion.

Concensus of experienced gluers seems to be to glue only the outer edges rather than the whole width of the tyre to the wheel.

I've been thinking abut this for a long time and wondering if glued edges only are good enough. Certainly it will stop the tyre from coming right off and will prevent the wheel from spinning inside the tyre but . . .
it would appear that the centre tread could still lift, thus increasing the tyre diameter at high speed and also reducing the grip because of the now reduced flat area available to remain in contact with the track. This could be considered a GOOD feature in that it will probably only occur on high speed straights where the increased diameter would enable even higher velocity and the decreased grip wouldn't matter at all. On the other hand, it could create vibration through uneven stretching and temporarily losing concentricity (roundness!). Also, under vicious acceleration on both straights and curves, under wheelspin, the loss of effective friction area would be disadvantageous.

Any comments on these points?
Does anyone glue the full width of tyre to the wheels?
 

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Graham Windle
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4,445 Posts
I glue sponge across the full width ,and mould silicon directly onto the rim but only glue rubber at the edges ,yes you do get a balloon effect in the centre but by the time your tyres get like that there knackered and ready for a change
 

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Hi

I fall into the "glue the whole wheel" school.

As for sources. One option is "permatex black gasket seal". I buy my silicone glue at autoshops. Now in the U.K.? Well, most auto makers use permatex under their own labels! I know that Honda does. So, worse comes to worse, go to your auto dealer!

Fate
 

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'Pneumatics', as they are called, have been banned in almost all clubs down south, definatly every one that I have been to.

They have been found to be a massive advantage, and any vibration problems described by Tropi are not significant enough to outweigh the advantage down the straights. Also, the air cushioned tyres tend to give really good grip.

Down here it was done by glueing the rims on both sides and soaking the tyres in oil to make them expand.

Luckily it's really obvious to tell, because the tyres are squishy. If you suspect someone of illegally using pneumatics then simply take a pin and slyly pop one side. It's far more entertaining than simply disqualifying them.


McLaren
 

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I've got a Fly Lister Storm which I have fitted a Xenon light kit to and for the wires to fit, I had to slice the front tyres in half. I replaced the old wheels and tyres with Slot It parts and glued the tyres onto the hub with superglue.
 

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I've done this only one time but it worked fine.

I've glued MB/Franspeed rim+tyres for my truck with "RTV 3140" silicone coating from Dow Corning. I also use this silicone to glue motors. It's easy to apply, resistent, and quick to be removed, no small parts are left. And it doesn't affect rubber grip.

Oops, sorry, "full width glueing" for me, please
 
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